For next season, Umit Benan shows the continuity of the stylistic code by keeping the volumes and shapes of winter, dominated by the fit of the 1980s now interpreted in a new and lightweight summer version.
The palette is characterized by bright colours such as yellow, burgundy and strawberry red, together with timeless shades such as navy blue, denim and cream, with iconic graphics of micro dots, macro checks and vintage stripes.
The fabrics, from the Lanificio Cerruti or Italian sartorial tradition, are natural and pure: silk, linen, cotton and fine wool are always blended; standing out in particular is the viscose and cotton, rough to the touch, with microspheres in relief dotting the surface.
Ultra soft leather ranges from nappa leather to suede, plain or with openwork; its maximum expression can be found in the bomber jacket which mixes the three variations in a patchwork of three colours – yellow, burgundy and brown -, with mélange knit piping.
The concept of oversize and casual stretching continues to model the hourglass silhouette, which emphasizes the upper part, is close-fitting on the hips and once again becomes looser in the lower part.
The square lines of the broad and well-defined shoulders are interrupted by airy and fluid trousers, to suggest a concept of free and relaxed comfort, yet extremely masculine and virile.
The short and long cuts alternate in fluid the combinations of macro-checked jerkins worn with high-waisted trousers, with triple pleats and mother-of-pearl buttons or loose and deconstructed shirts worn with Bermuda shorts with a minimal shape.
The safari jacket, a cult piece of the 1980s, has maxi pockets on the front; the casual jackets have knitted cuffs to push up the sleeves in a relaxed way, the models inspired by pyjama jackets are counter-balanced by hyper-sartorial constructions with low and dropped or high and prominent shoulders.
Shirts also have wide sleeves, often three-quarters, with an imbalance in the lengths between the back and the front; the finely knitted pullovers are real statements of comfort; the T-shirts in yarns ultra-soft to the touch or in silk are characterized by graphic designs of the past or horizontal patches in different fabrics and shades.
Trousers with a classic cut, softened by front pleats, alternate with easy models with a drawstring and “boat-pants” with an almost distracted fit, with belts at the waist which clinch the fabric vertically, making it fold over itself.
Very simple and extremely sophisticated. The old-fashioned style comes in an absolutely modern interpretation, where luxury is exalted and underlined by a simplicity veering on casual, only apparent but ideally typical of a generation vowed to the easy way of life.
