Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar
(DAY – 6)
Day 6 of the Italian fashion week some of the highly acclaimed designers showcase some awe-inspiring collections. From Missoni’s trip to the 80’s era to MSGM’s color-blocked beauties, it was a perfect marriage between heritage craftsmanship and modern design aesthetics. While bright pops of blue and ruby red were absolute frontrunners, glitzy fabrications like metallic and leather also came into the fashion forefront. With strikingly feminine silhouettes and exquisite craftsmanship, this day saw a bold usage of bright colors in different fabrications.
The day began with, Massimo Rebecchi who showcased a collection that combined flexibility and movement, perfectly amalgamated onto richly crafted garments. A lot of fur and metallic were used to create outfits that included rigid geometrical patterns. Double breasted plaid overcoats and unstructured cabans were worn over chiffon blouses and knitted wrap-around skirts. Printed tops and boat-neck tunics were emblazoned with abstract, arty patterns as look was accessorized with strappy leather boots and bright colorful wallets. Cut-sleeved jackets were crafted from super soft lambskin, accompanied by a shearling trim. Men were smartly dressed in tweed Chesterfields, followed by knitted turtleneck cardigans and pointy patent brogues. The color palette consisted of bold pastels like navy, steel grey, baby pink, crimson, ruby red, off-white, mustard and peacock blue.
The collection presented by the Marni was an extravagant affair. Exotic fur and leather in varied colours made their way into an assortment of long coats. They were also incorporated in the little details like sleeves, pockets and collars of jackets. To top it all, accessories like shoes and wide belts were made out of exotic snake skin. The colour palette comprised of neutrals with dashes of red and pastel pink. The garments projected vertical rectangular silhouettes as models donned regular-fit longs coats, knee-length skirts and dresses. There were also a variety of prints from floral to abstract to choose from.
John Richmond’s collection was inspired by the Rock n Roll era of the seventies, mixed with a modern-Goth approach. With a smoky makeup base and usage of dark colors like black, burgundy, chocolate brown, peacock blue and burnt red; models swayed the runway wearing body-hugging garments that defined a modern-glitzy female. Long overcoats and English trenched were emblazoned with a zebra print and worn over sheer blouses and pencil skirts. Short pea coats and uber-cool capes were crafted from faux fur as well as rich shearling. Peplum jackets, made from exotic crocodile skin, were worn over zipper tops and jewel-encrusted LBD’s. Printed A-line dresses and embellished evening gowns were corseted at the waist, containing extensive cutwork and Swarovski embellishments. Peep-toe platform boots and patent wedges made a hot accessory statement on the fashion runway.
Moving on, Laura Biagiotti’s collection began with models strutting in black and grey ensembles that had exaggerated shoulders and deviated from body curves. The Italian high fashion designer showcased a range of versatile looks that ranged from flowy and angelic to baggy and androgynous. The colour palette chosen by the designer involved neutrals like black, white, shades of grey with warm tones like gold and tangerine. Mid-collection brought about a Bohemian wave as loose and flowy sheer-chiffons along with a fringed grey chunky knit made the rounds.Then came in a burst of colour as tangerine made its way in kimono-sleeved jackets paired with shorts and fitted pants. The designer also incorporated abstract prints in loose sheer-chiffon outfits. As the collection was approaching its end, Goddesses descended upon the runway in ethereal white ensembles with gold details. The looks were complemented with round shades and the hair neatly tied up.
MSGM contained bold prints in vibrant colors and contrasting textures, resulting in irrelevant yet supremely wearable pieces. Bow-detailed cropped tops were paired with subtle tapered trousers and matching velvet gloves. Turtleneck cardigans and form-fitting overcoats were appliquéd with slouched-up pieces of bright fabrics to create a color-blocking effect. Knitted blouses were embroidered with intricate lacework and tunic dresses were worn with crinkled suede boots. A lot of geometric patchwork could be seen on square-shaped skirts and oversized cashmere scarves. Duffle coats with notched lapels were crafted from hand-dyed shearling, making a slouchy silhouette on modern female body. V-neck dresses and silk blouses were accompanied by ruffled collars, as each look as each look was perfectly matched with tapered pants and imprinted leather shoes. Textured cabans and shearling jumpsuits were appliqué with modern-abstract floral patterns as models were drenched in bright pastels of tangerine, sunshine yellow, cobalt blue, hot pink, blood red and almond.
The highlight of the day was Salvatore Ferragamo that saw women strut down in absolute finesse donning ensembles by the Italian luxury label. The looks were sleek and sharp, ideal for power-dressing. The show began with tailored knee-length coats and dresses. Currently a favorite trend among designers, the cape made its way on the runway. Bold colour-block garments as seen in long coats, flowy and fitted dresses added a sense of vibrancy to the collection. Lacey two-piece outfits in black and red added a sense of grace and old-school charm. Wintry knits like ponchos along with exotic fur incorporated in ribbed dresses and dresses warmed up the collection. The colour palette incorporated reds, browns, greys, white and yellow. The looks were complemented by hair neatly swept back.
The heritage Italian label, under the creative direction of Gaia Trussardi, showcased a collection that paid utmost attention of the extensive draping and layering of body-hugging garments. Known for their exquisite leather fabrications, a lot of patent and lambskin was used to create the bold, yet feminine outfits. Overcoats and jumpsuits were belted to perfection, followed by tailored jackets and pencil knee-length skirts. Slouchy trousers were paired with cashmere cardigans as extravagant fur coats embodied the female figure. Embellished dresses and crop tops were patch worked with different kinds of fur, making a sober color-blocking effect. Spaghetti tops and built-up tunics were paired with v-slit boots and crocodile messenger bags. Biker jackets and double-breasted pea coats were accompanied by exaggerated shearling collars as glitzy metallic skirts as well as cocktail dresses made an absolute style statement. The color palette ranged from darker shades of chocolate brown, jet black and grey-blue to lighter tones like off-white, beige and copper-gold.
The eccentric collection presented by the designer-duo Au Jour Le Jour incorporated bright colours and bold amalgamation of prints. Garments showcased had a Seventies vibe to it as women donned flared pants, luminescent blazers and fitted pants. Metallic shoes in shades like silver, copper, gold and electric-blue definitely caught our attention on the runway. The 1970s’ glamour was taken a notch higher as fur coats and skirts in cream, red-orange and black added an opulent touch to the collection. Animal prints like Zebra made a quirky statement on skin-tight leggings and regular-fit pants. The thunderbolt motif added a ‘David Bowie’ effect on mini-skirts and full length shirts. Funky accessories like the vinyl-record bag further heightened the fun element on the ramp.
Missoni took to similar routes that were inspiredby the 80’s glitzy style and playful feminism. Body-conscious dresses and wonderful knitted garments quintessentially represented the brand’s long heritage and extremely detailed craftsmanship. As models were enveloped in a bright color palette consisting of bod pastels like purple, red, copper, sea-green, white and glitzy black; one could not help but notice the dash of metallic and zigzag patterns that complimented the eye-popping runway. Abstract-print dresses were crafted from fine silk as glitzy jumpsuits were accompanied by a subtle keyhole neckline. A lot of stripes and uni-linear geometric patterns were emblazoned onto bold knitted dresses as chained sling bags, followed by thigh-high leather boots made the perfect accessory duo onto the fashion runway.
Moving ahead, I’m Isola Marras collection presented by the designer was all about combining a variety of prints and fabrics to create a modern identity. The omnipresent print incorporated by the designer in the collection was the tartan check. The colour palette was in shades of red, black, white, sky-blue and canary-yellow. The collection seemed to have been inspired by nature with the runway covered with dried leaves of fall. Nature-inspired prints like dogs, deer, floral and trees made their way into chunky knits and jackets. Bold use of merged prints added character to the collection. The looks were accessorized with elbow-length gloves in red, olive and black.
The day ended with Roberto Musso whose collection was inspired by the intense Japanese culture and its exquisite heritage. With a more cosmopolitan approach towards fashion, minimal silhouettes were amalgamated with richly colored fabrics. Straight-fit overcoats were worn over tapered trousers and kimono-inspired jackets that were belted to perfection. Silk blouses with winged-tip collars were matched with flared skirts as slouchy V-neck tops and ankle-length skirts were an absolute stunner. U-shaped tunic dresses and A-lined skirts were imprinted with a rather girlish polka-dotted pattern that made the collection more fluid and feminine. With strappy leather gladiators and a knitted headgear, models were drenched in a bold color palette of khaki, navy, bright red, baby pink, and ink, white and black.
