Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar
(DAY – 5)
Moving onto Day 5 of the Italian extravaganza, some of the biggest names in fashion showcased a wide array of statement pieces in their uber-cool collections. From Bottega Veneta’s checkered beauties to Aquilando Rimondi’s minimalistic silhouettes, a lot of feather and suede came into action. As geometric patterns were on a high, timeless pastels like black and tangerine were a sure shot frontrunners. This day observed a perfect marriage between fine craftsmanship and the brand’s heritage aesthetics.
Starting off with Bottega Veneta, whose collection portrayed a fiery vision of a womanly body, followed by digitally printed designs and geometrical check patterns. From wing tip collared jumpsuits to silk bow-detailed blouses, long textured overcoats were paired with tapered woolen trousers and colorful knee-length suede boots. A lot of leather, ranging from super soft lambskin to exotic crocodile, was used to create feminine garments like square-shaped skirts and finely tailored trenches. Capes and winged-tip cashmere zippers were innovatively emblazoned with digital abstract prints, followed by bold-knitted cardigans and flowy crepe skirts. Tunic dresses and boat-neck jumpers were accompanied by embellished collars and sequin detailing.
Also, a lot of finely tailored garments like double-breasted jackets and shawl-lapelled tuxes were paired with pleated trousers and patent brogues. Crinkled LBD’s contained exaggerated shoulders and were handcrafted from fine macramé silk and nearly each model carried the brand’s signature interlocking hand-woven duffle bags. Models were enveloped in a bold color palette that included pastels like purple, aqua blue, smoky black, tangerine, sea green, ombré and peach. Then came Vivetta, whose collection imbibed classical elements with a touch of modern sophistication. The designer incorporated florals as shown in sheer dresses, pleated skirts including a bold print-on-print ensemble (like the white floral print top worn under a black floral dress). Classic stripes made a comeback in her collection with an opulent touch of fur. The sheer camel dress with strips of fur was a modern interpretation of the classic print. Abstract prints in quirky colour combinations added a fun element to the collection. The recurring print had a certain fluidic appeal on the outfits as witnessed in two-piece outfits, the crop jacket and floor-length dresses.
The recurring print of a woman’s side profile in shades of white, blue, orange and yellow added character to the ensembles. Italian designer, Ermanno Scervino’s AW collection was all about iconoclastic, free-spirited and innovative luxury combined with beautifully crafted fabrics with a rich textural appeal. From quilted coats to turtleneck cashmere cardigans, a lot of plaid was used to define A-line dresses and pilgrim coats that were corseted to the waist. With a ‘sporty-chic’ aesthetic, slouchy tunic dresses were sequined and interwoven with an extensive jacquard print. Single-breasted jackets were paired with slim-fit trousers as each piece was intricately crafted from rich lace and dégradé silk. Plunging dresses and backless numbers were crafted from fine sheer and accessorized with embroidered handbags, followed by lace sandals. Evening gowns and A-line dresses contained loads of fur detailing as each piece contained corseted hemlines and figure-defining bodices. Military trenches with gold buttons were followed by sequined flared skirts, as models swayed down the runway wearing heavily embellished gowns crafted from crepe satin.
As puffed-up fur skirts made an absolute style statement, the color palette included bold pastels of cobalt blue, white, jet black, khaki and ruby red. Roberto Cavalli’s collection saw an army of sexy and confident women strutting the runway with signature elements of the acclaimed designer. There was an abundance of animal prints like zebra, leopard and tiger as shown in form fitting dresses, patchwork-printed tops and ankle-length coats. Goddesses of the Cavalli Empire walked down in sheer-chiffon floral gowns, short dresses and jackets. The gowns that really appealed on the runway were floor-length and pleated with a gradation of sunset and blues. There was a sense of romance in the air as ruffled blouses and cuffs made their appearance on the runway. Traditional plaid checks were incorporated in high-waist pants and wrap-around dresses belted at the waist.
There was also a brief military moment on the runway as models donned corduroy olive-green mini-skirt and parkas. Next in the lineup was Antonio Marras,whoseFallcollection was all about beauty, feminism and elegance richly portrayed through body-hugging silhouettes and a modern aesthetic appeal. With gilded Rococo interiors and lush carpeted floors, models walked down the runway wearing scooping blouses and printed pencil skirts. Loose overcoats with exaggerated lapels were worn with thigh-high boots and fur-detailed bags. Corseted jackets were appliquéd with gold brocade as each outfit was matched with flared pants and lace-embroidered trousers. Blurring the lines between serendipitous luxury and modern minimalism, body-hugging gowns were layered with tulle flowers and matched perfectly with sequined duffle coats.
Chiffon dresses with dainty halter necks were matched with embroidered coats with shearling trims. Models were wrapped in a color palette that included soft pastels like smoky blue, burgundy, black, khaki and pale pink. Jil Sander, known for his minimalistic aesthetic, showcased a predominantly neutral toned collection with a dash of colour here and there. The acclaimed designer kept the looks sharp in fitted coats and blazers paired with regular-fit pants and knee-length skirts in solid shades.
Stripes made their debut on the catwalk with knee-length coats in black and white. Limited pieces with abstract prints were shown in coats paired with high-waist regular-fit trousers. Overall the looks were simplistic with key emphasis laid on power dressing. CIVIDINI, the Italian luxury house showcased a collection that was all about a mix of handcrafted techniques with modern technology, followed by clean and refined silhouettes. With a gilded gold backdrop, models were enveloped in a color palette that ranged from bold pastels like black and deep maroon to lighter shades of camel, steel grey and gold. Shearling overcoats and fur jackets were worn over tailored shirts and tapered jackets. Winged-tip collar knitted tunics were worn with Mohair skirts and patent zipper boots. LBD’s and oversized cardigans were patch worked with gold sequins as floral imprinted dresses made an absolute style statement. Slouchy duffle coats and fur pea coats were worn with straight-fit silk dresses, which were belted to perfection. U-shaped short dresses were crafted entirely from grainy suede, as each garment was appliquéd with a checkered-patchwork technique.
Leather handbags and glitzy slings made a perfect accessory duo and a definite must-have for all the fashion enthusiasts. Gabriele Colangelo’s collection focused on blending a variety of fabrics to represent a unique and modern identity. There was an element of sophistication through simplicity with emphasis laid on the cut of the garment and the silhouette projected. The colour palette involved neutrals like white, camel, grey, black with a few bright and bold shades like fuchsia and violet. Exaggerated shoulders were portrayed in single-breasted coats and dresses with varying hemlines. The designer also incorporated simplicity with luxurious shearling in knee-length coats and cropped jackets. Subtle stripes in grey dresses and pencil skirts appeared mid-collection.Ankle-length boots and ponytails to finish complemented the minimalist looks. Next in the lineup was Italian fashion label, Aquilano Rimondi that showcased a collection characterized by contemporary design and a refined, artisanal touch. With a minimalist approach and a ‘simple-lux’ appeal, models walked down the runway feminine garments that were a perfect blend between fluid silhouettes and sharp tailoring. Spaghetti tops with crystal embroidery were matched with high-waisted tapered trousers followed by belted peplum jackets and textured double-breasted topcoats. Heavily sequined tunic dresses were accessorized with crushed leather booties, followed by cardigans and wrap-up skirts. A lot of geometric cutwork and pattern work could be seen emblazoned onto sheer skirts and knitted blouses with a built-up neck.
Also, embellished tube dresses and tailored jackets were accompanied by U-shaped tops and flared pants. The color palette included simple and bold pastels of navy, steel grey, black and silver. Emilio Pucci’s collection was a glamorous one inspired by Zodiac Signs. A colorful mix of black, white, red, wine, green and cobalt blue were incorporated into an energetic mix of prints. The show opened with monochrome outfits from the late 1950s’ with equally eccentric thigh-high boots to match. A range of fabrics from velvet, sheer and fox fur was used in the collection. Intarsia knits, beaded gowns, zodiac embellishments in gold took command on the runway.
There were also certain Bohemian elements as the fringed cape and miniskirt made their appearance in the collection. From funky floor-length gowns to sheer short dresses with metallic bands, the collection was oozed glamour. Then came Elisabetta Franchi, whose collection was all about ‘turning a fantasy into reality’ as her main inspiration came from the Oriental Chinese heritage. Embodying a rich and functional modernity, models strutted the runway in plunging Kimono-inspired dresses and crop tops that were appliquéd with intricate floral embroidery. Crepe shirts and tapered trousers were worn with tailored jackets and leather peep-toe boots. Corseted zipper jackets were paired with silk A-lined skirts, followed by followed by intricately embroidered floor-length gowns. Peplum tunics were belted with satin bands and paired with slim-fit trousers and crinkled bright bucket bags. Baby doll dresses and cap-sleeved blouses were paired with long flared skirts and quilted puffer jackets. Sheer blouses and harem pants were followed by sequined cocktail dresses and halter-neck high-slit gowns. Plunging and strapless mermaid gowns were embroidered with gold sequins and Swarovski crystals. The color palette strongly contained bold pastels like cobalt blue, smoky black, dainty white, bright tangerine and faded gold.
Day 5 ended with Italian label Grinko, whose AW collection was dark, edgy with streaks of androgyny. The show began with an influence from nature as freaky zebra prints and birds made their way onto monochrome ensembles. Then came along a quirky parade of prints as shown in the asymmetric dress and the ‘Grinko Pride’ skirt. Later in the collection, bold print-on-print outfits also made their way into the collection. Silver was an important element, which accentuated the edgy appeal showcased by the designer. One of the outfits that truly stood out in the collection was the metallic floor-length gown, which was belted at the waist. Windowpane Checks were widely used in classic tailored coats, pea coats and fitted trousers. The collection was perfect match for edgy street-style in today’s world.
