Gucci Spring Summer 2018 Unified Fashion Show at the Gucci Hub in Milan, officially opened Milan Fashion Week.

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The set design conceived by Creative Director Alessandro Michele’s first reference came from an ancient map, which represents the Sabine Hills. This acted as the guideline for the shows’ foundations: the layout, the captions and the order of the locations depicted in writings on the floor.

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Creation is a poetic act. It’s an eruptive process emerging from a magmatic core inhabited by urgencies, ghosts and desires. A whirl in which the stream of being thickens to deliver fresh meanings. An explosion in which vital strengths, once trapped, are finally released, said the show notes.

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The collection embodies this exercise of resistance. Each garment vibrates with an intellectual tension that resists homologation. To this end, models strewed the runway in logo bomber jackets, printed trouser suits, pyjamas, snake motifs, leopard print and thousands of sequins giving distinctly eighties feel, with flicked hairstyles, exaggerated shoulder pads, bum bags and even – shock horror – a shell suit.

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Menswear offered tiny short shorts paired with ties and blazers, deliberately creased tailoring, and a standout yellow checked suit. Accessories came in the form of crystal encrusted sunglasses and Stormtrooper-esque skull caps, as well as tiaras worn as necklaces and glittery hair slides for the boys.

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In this frame, Gucci offers a phenomenology of the dissenting spirit. A map of signs to learn to poetically live the world, going beyond its contingency and standardizing monotony.

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