Though three nations – France, England and America – can lay claim to the origin of the word dandy, his ilk was very much reborn in Paris this past weekend in runway shows presenting menswear collection for next spring – the season was all about inventing a modern gent’s wardrobe through sharp tailoring and a sense of unadorned chicness.
The opening look at Givenchy, where designer Riccardo Tisci was inspired by Hawaii and surfing, was a man in sandals, skirt and sweater shirt emblazoned with a bird of paradise hyper print. The same tropical flower that also covered sequined kilts. Yes, sequined kilts.
The most dominant trend – evident through collections from Yves Saint Laurent, Dior Homme and Lanvin – was modernist tailoring. Most spectacularly at YSL where designer Stefano Pilati offered deconstructed dandy shoulders, low waists, and frock coats cut away at the front. His footwear managed to be both dandified – hand painted snakeskin moccasins and athletic, snazzy patent leather Sci Fi boots with fabric backs. “It’s about a new city style, urban sportswear and leisure,” explained Pilati.
Dior Homme’s tailoring tour de force began with five looks almost like toiles, i.e. patterns for a proper suit, though in this case composed of chic ecru felt cottons. The house’s menswear designer Kris Van Assche doesn’t much cut jackets as he does drape them, especially his sleeveless redingotes with single buttons at the neck.
Arty party animals were the stars at Galliano. On the runway, Galliano’s effective successor Gaytten referenced far more jolly fare – the London art scene of the 60’s; Military coats echoed parties in Peter Blake’s studio and David Hockney look-a-likes with lavender suits, blond mops of hair, bottle-shaped glasses and knit ties. With smart tailoring, the finale was a composition of excellent toreador tuxedos with metallic embroidery down the legs and beaded sleeves.
