Day 3:
As we move on to Day 3 of Paris Spring Summer menswear, we saw a black and romantic atmosphere at Givenchy. The decoration in the Halle Freyssinet consists of an old dismembered French plane Cessna which hangs suspended in the centre. Heavy, repetitive music makes for a peculiar atmosphere and leads you to think that something dramatic has just happened. However its more about warriors than survivors, walking confidently toward and then around the plane with black hair covers and dressed in short black costumes with contrasting white collared shirts were American football player Victor Cruz and basketball player Russell Westbrook along with other models.
Whereas to taste the luxury & refinement at Berluti one needs to be in the first row to be able to admire the clothes and to appreciate the delicacy of the skins that were used, as well as the technical way the leather has been worked. It appears very light, and is treated like a second skin, with some trompe l’oeil effects. Alessandro Sartori takes as much care with the clothes as with the shoes, which are always the starting point of a Berluti collection.
The 80s and all that comes with it are back in Van Assche’s 20th collection, presented in the Halle Freyssinet in Paris. The sportswear look that the designer holds dear is approached elegantly, with slides matching a trouser suit or shorts, worn with a hooded shirt under a jacket. There is construction and deconstruction in the two-length jackets and the ripped up clothes.
One also saw Junya Watanabe Man, Maison Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, Melinda Gloss, Juun.J, Krisvanassche, Cerruti, Comme des Garçons homme and Henrik Vibskov.
In the end not every collections wasn’t a lineup that so much drove the menswear conversation this season.
