Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar
(DAY -2)
Day 2 of Paris Fashion Week kick started with designers showcasing collections that were based on solid color pastels and minimalistic silhouettes. From Phillip Lim to Yoji Yahamoto, no stones were left unturned as a lot of navy blue and black was also used in the garments that definitely made a statement of their own.
3.1 Phillip Lim: The American designer’s AW collection was all about relaxed silhouettes and effortless cuts. From geometrical cuts to loose-fitted garments, models wore quilted jackets and leather bombers over cashmere-knit turtlenecks. Military-inspired coats in checks and abstract prints were worn over form-fitting zipper jackets. Also, perfectly complimenting each look were crushed duffle bags as well as grainy totes matched with suede as well as patent leather boots. The designer followed a very simple color palette that included simple tones of olive green, navy blue and black with hints of white and chocolate brown.
Kolor: The innovative Japanese brand founded by Junichi Abe, showcased a collection that revolved around warm and subtle colors like brown, camel, tangerine and grey with hints of mustard and dark blue. With a strong emphasis on fabrics like cashmere and Mohair, models walked in round-neck cardigans worn under oversized duffle coats. Also, a lot of tailoring perfectly amalgamated with the subtle collection and garments like fitted jackets worn with tapered trousers were the major standouts. A lot of geometric patterns and uniform lines were used on most of the garments as each look was perfectly accessorized with suede leather bag packs and nubuck sneakers.
Andrea Crews: The “alter ego” created by designer Maroussia Rebecq showcased a collection that was playful, casual yet contained a certain manliness to it. With a lot of abstract prints, models walked wearing oversized zipper jackets and extra-large capes. Puffed-up and quilted bombers were perfectly paired with patent brogues and form-fitting trousers crafted from a blend of vinyl-leather. A lot of polyester and recycled leather was used in the collections, with some of the models wearing printed shorts and jet-black stockings. A very simple color palette was used, including pastels like black and white with hints of steel grey and bright orange.
Boris Bidjan Saberi: The Munich-based designer’s AW collection was a perfect amalgamation of classic colors like black and white with a bright plum number. Inspired by the hip-hop culture, models wore unstructured overcoats and double-breasted jackets over knitted cardigans and cotton shirts. With ankle-length sneakers and knitted hats, as the perfect accessories, a lot of lambskin leather was used in the creation of fitted garments that included short jackets and 3/4th trousers.
Yohji Yahamoto: The Japanese-based designer, known for his fine tailoring and craftsmanship, did a wonderful job with his AW collection. In solid tones of classic black, white, beige and plum red; models walked the runway wearing fitted double-breasted tuxedos and loosely fitted knitted cardigans. Unstructured trousers were worn under calfskin lace-ups. A lot of patchwork could be seen done on tailored jackets as well as crispy-white shirts. The collection was truly crafted to cater the body of a modern man and the standout pieces from the show were the textured suits crafted from super-authentic velvet material.
Julius: The Japanese label, run by Tatsuro Horikawa, showcased a collection that was dark and classy, yet contained an avant-garde edge to it. From oversized quilted jackets to leather turtleneck bombers, skinny-fit trousers were perfectly paired with leather boots. In reference to the brand’s heritage, a lot of fine tailored garments were crafted from different leathers like grainy calfskin and exotic snakeskin. A classic color palette consisting of black and white was used in the entire collection.
Damir Doma: There was a sense of warmth & comfort that glowed in this particular collection. A range of wintry shades like black, dark grey, light grey, dark chocolate brown was visible with a dash of canary yellow.Models walking the ramp this collection had a rectangular silhouette. They donned cardigans, kimono jackets, long coats and sheer long-sleeved tops. Men majorly sported high-waist pants apart from the classic suit ensemble shown mid collection. Striped suits in grey and brown certainly had a vintage charm.
Issey Miyake Men: The collection started with a showcase of classics as men walked down in black and ink-blue suits accessorized with sleek laptop bags. The ensembles were completed with regular, ankle-length pants and loose harem pants. The sober colour scheme soon burst briefly into some colours like red, yellow, green, baby pink and light blue. The collection slowly progressed into looser silhouettes with long jackets followed by striped tops. Garments later delved into luxury as men donned floral textured velvet ensembles in shades of red and black. The Japanese designer ended it on a geometric note.
Rick Owens: The American fashion designer surely grabbed eyeballs for showcasing full frontal nudity in some of his outfits. The garments showcased had a sporty/boho vibe to it. The designer incorporated a sporty funk with classics by pairing double-breasted coats with shorts and knee-length shorts. Loose chest/flesh- baring silhouettes in olive, brown and black with a side-fringe giving it the boho spirit. The attention-grabbing show ended with long hooded-coats with exaggerated shoulders to reflect masculinity and strength.
Louis Vuitton: Louis Vuitton’s collection felt like a trail in the woods.The heritage fashion house incorporated hand-embroidered abstract pattern that added a sense of regality through simplicity and colour. The wintry collection featured a range of sober shades like camel, grey, white, cream and dark brown. Men sported the brand’s heritage backpacks and satchels. Duo-toned leather shoes added a sense of sport and roughness. Combining different print-on-print added a sense of boldness to the looks.
Dries Van Noten: The Belgian fashion designer with an eponymous fashion brand showcased his collection beginning with heavy military and nautical inspired garments with vibe of cool street-style. Brown, white, navy blue and camel are shades that play along quite well with the above mentioned influences. Double-breasted trench coats with straight fit pants completed the look. It gradually merged towards floral in navy blue long double-breasted jackets. The highlight of the collection was a double-breasted coat which was hand-embroidered and embellished with sequins and a shearling lining.
Day 2 of the coveted Paris Fashion Week uncovered an array of designer visions. From Louis Vuitton’s woody collection, Issey Miyake’s geometric splurge to Rick Owen’s attention grabbing flesh-display, PFW definitely made things very interesting on the runway.
