Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar
(DAY-4)
Day 4 of the Paris menswear mania saw some of the biggest names in fashion that showcased awe-inspiring collections. From Dior’s minimalistic tailored silhouettes to Kenzo’s interesting mix of uber-cool colors, no stones were left unturned as each house came up with an interesting array of design aesthetics that was true to their heritage as well as the strenuous craftsmanship.
Kenzo: The French luxury brand, under the design direction of Mr. Kenzo Takada, showcased a collection that was relaxed and modern in every way possible. Bold knitted turtleneck cardigans were worn under form-fitting trousers and perfectly accessorized with leather brogues as well as crushed tote carryalls. Rich and authentic fabrics like shearling and cashmere were used to craft single-breasted cabans and slouchy jumpsuits. Touching the modern aesthetics of design, a lot of abstract graphic print could be seen on puffed-up bomber jackets and weatherproof coats. With olive green and tangerine being the standout colors, a blend of interesting pastels like peacock blue, lavender and maroon were used to create perfectly structured garments.
Songzio: The Korean-based luxury brand showcased a collection that was classic, rich and luxurious. Classic tuxedos, duffle coats and oversized trenches were extensively layeredwith shearling and cashmere. A lot of leather ranging from grainy calfskin to exotic python was used to create beautifully tailored garments that were strikingly mannish and extremely dapper. Biker jackets and woolen Chesterfields were innovatively paired with Darby shoes and patent lace-ups. The whole collection was centered on the classic ‘black’ color but one could also see traces of dark camel and bottle green in the collection.
Dior Homme: An orchestral line-up, a perfect amalgamation of evening tuxes with sporty sneakers and the very minimalistic tailored silhouettes; Dior’s much anticipated AW show was an absolute stunner. Under the design direction of Kris Van Assche, the French luxury house showcased a collection that radiated class and modernity. Evening tuxedos with sharp tailcoats and classic suits were worn under tapered trousers and denim pants. As men strikingly walked in double-breasted suits, one could not get their eyes-off the long Chesterfields that were tailored to perfection. Leather cabans with shearling collars were draped in plaid checks of bright yellow and worn under woolen waistcoats. Also, classic bow ties and patent leather sneakers, followed by leather duffle bags, made the perfect accessory match for the “Modern Dior Man”. Following a very minimalistic color palette, dark pastels like black and grey with hints of royal blue and maroon were used in the entire collection.
Miharayasuhiro: The Japanese designer’s AW collection was relaxed, colorful and yet radiated a modern appeal to it. From flowy denim jackets to tailored woolen suits, models walked in form-fitting trousers that were worn with two-toned patent Oxford shoes. Also, the collection contained a lot of heavy patchwork garments like biker jackets and straight-fit cargos that were absolute standouts. Oversized fringed cashmere scarves were worn with buttoned cardigans and slouched shirts. The color palette mainly consisted of rich colors such as navy blue, olive green, pale mustard, deep ombré and classic black.
AMI: The French fashion house, founded by Alexandre Mattuissi, showcased a rich wintery collection that comprised of relaxed tailored suits mixed with superb wool topcoats. Slouchy Chesterfields in cashmere and tweed were worn beneath knitted turtleneck cardigans and puffed leather bombers. Also exaggerated shearling collars were used to make loosely fitted pea coats that were matched perfectly with tapered trousers and laced English brogues. The color palette mainly comprised of solid pastels like black and navy blue with hints of tangerine and classic white.
Sacai: With men walking the ramp amidst the misty blue frigid tinge in the air, the collection definitely emphasized on winter fashion. The designer played with shades of blue in the garments showcased by him. From plaids coats, animal-print pants, striped cardigans to ponchos, the designer left no stones unturned when it came to the latest trends that made their big appearances this year in menswear fashion.
Etudes Studio: The collection showcased by the creative directors Aurélien Arbet and Jérémie Egry had an ultra-modern street vibe to it. The garments followed a colour scheme in bright red, cerulean blue, navy blue, grey, black and white. It probably emphasized on the hustle-bustle of city life with bold prints like ‘day-to-day, 24-7-365 & in time’ etc. Dungarees, bomber jackets and satchels also made their appearances. The look was accessorized with brogues that complemented the overall look.
Wooyoungmi: The designer went traditional in terms of colour, as a range of garments were featured in dull wintry shades like navy blue, chocolate brown, plum, grey, cream and black. The looks were practical and utilitarian as men wore cardigans, jackets, trench coats, blazers, regular-fit trousers. Sticking to simplicity, the designer majorly went for plain winter wear that was devoid of prints and patterns.
Hermes: The heritage fashion house exuded a sense of tradition with a subtle modern appeal. Taking pride in their heritage, the collection consisted of classic suits with single or double-breasted coats and straight-fit pants paired with a Hermes scarf. As the collection progressed, the looks became more relaxed as men walked down in cardigans, loose fitting pants and even paired the loose bottoms with the traditional suit. Calfskin leather jackets with a shearling trim symbolized luxe winter fashion. Geometric prints also added to the simplicity. Overall, the looks were kept clean, simple yet sophisticated, a signature of this luxury brand.
Day 4 of Paris Fashion Week menswear saw an interesting mix of designers. From Wooyoungmi and Hermes’s simplicity and sophisticated collection, Etudes Studio’s ultra-modern street vibe to Sacai’s trend-friendly collection, the fashion scene witnessed versatility in winter-wear at its best!
