Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar
(DAY-4)
Day 4 of the luxury mania continued as some of the biggest names in the industry marveled the elite with breathtaking collections. From John Paul Gaultier’s “white wedding” fantasy to Valentino’s “lovely affair”, designers portrayed their love for traditional as well as heritage roots by converting the brand’s design aesthetic through extensive and elaborate craftsmanship.
Franck Sorbier: The French couture house vowed the audience with their futuristic, yet extensively detailed collection. Garments were designed using a lot of floral appliqué work and lace embellishments. Models swayed the audience by gliding onto the runway wearing deep corseted dresses that were elegantly cut out from the bottom. Evening gowns had a very Bohemian appeal as each piece was adorned with hundreds of tulle flowers and designed in different styles ranging from daring plunges to elegant off-shoulders. Halter-neck and strapless dresses were beautifully layered till the bottom and every look was completed with a hair look that actually transformed into the shape of a tree with branches. A very light and subtle color palette, apt for the SS season, was incorporated onto the garments that included pastels such as dreamy white, light mustard, lavender and beige with hints of red and aubergine.
Jean Paul Gautier: A fervent admirer of theatre and flamboyant fashion, the French couturier showcased a collection that was inspired by the traditional white wedding ceremony. As models paraded the runway wearing extravagantly detailed pieces, one could not get their eyes off the craftsmanship involved in creating each and every ‘outfit’. A lot of tailored garments like formal notched-lapel coats, made out of satin silk as well as exotic python, were paired with elaborate tulle skirts that were ruffled as well as pleated in some cases. Silk jumpsuits with plunging necklines as well as strapless dresses with corseted bustiers were perfectly accessorized with patent leather belts platform pumps. A lot of fringe detailing was used to create floor-length evening gowns that were A-lined, yet light and airy in their own way. The color palette consisted of a mix of shades that ranged from crystal white and golden beige to jet-black and emerald green, with slight hints of hot pink and chocolate brown.
Valentino: The very renowned Italian house’s SS couture collection was probably one of the most highly anticipated shows in the entire day. Under the design direction of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, the luxury house presented a collection that was inspired by love and poetry. As poems were appliquéd onto dresses, one could not help noticing the extensive embroidery and brocade work done on floor-sweeping evening gowns crafted from rich and luxurious fabrics like degradé silk and tulle. A lot of attention was paid to floral motifs and geometric patterns that were very carefully hand-embroidered onto the brand’s signature tunic dresses with the iconic-laced shirt collars. It was a perfect exemplary between fantasy and reality as richly detailed elements could be seen on straight-fit gowns with trailing capes. A lot of layering could be seen done on elaborate garments, which crafted from rich tulle and had star as well as floral embellishments onto them. The duo used a very “heavenly” color palette that included soft and sober pastels like ruby red, velvet black, rusted almond, olive green and dark blue with hints of rust and crystal white.
Elie Saab:The designer known to make every woman’s dream come true did nothing but the same this time. Inspired from him region, Beirut, the Lebanese designer brought about the soft glamour of the 60’s. He conjured a beautiful dream from feathers, sequins and sheer silk. The collection possessed soft romantic pastel shades like pink, steel blue, cream and white. From boat neck to deep plunge lines, the collection had an array of gowns and short dresses that seemed to have come straight from a Disney movie. Some of the highlights of the collection were gowns that had different fabrics dyed and embellished individually to form a patchwork resembling a floating butterfly. The show ended on a spectacular note with an ethereal embellished pastel pink gown with a slight dusting of coral pink and yellow- green.
Viktor & Rolf: The collection presented by the designer-duo was all about funky bright colors added to a base dark blue floral print. The color scheme comprised of shades like white, ink-blue, light blue, yellow, red and green. The collection started with a hint of color, gradually getting brighter with an increased asymmetrical volume. From floral print to 3-D flowers, this particular collection with a riot of color and flowers brought about a feeding frenzy. The look was accessorized with thick-soled flip-flops to complete the look. What really caught our attention was the experimentation with the straw hat and the wheat stalk.
Day 4 of Paris Haute Couture Week witnessed spring in full bloom. From Viktor and Rolf’s floral frenzy to Elie Saab’s ethereal collection, designers delivered dreams on the runway with fine handcrafted garments that were nothing less than perfection.
