Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar
(DAY-5)
As the Italian menswear fashion mania came to an end, various designers showcased collection that were subtle and had a vibrant array of subtle colors. A majority of colors such as navy blue and smoky black was used in almost all the shows and almost each model walked in a garment that was a true exemplary of authentic Italian tailoring as well as craftsmanship.
Dirk Bikkembergs: The Belgian designer’s collection was sporty, chic and sophisticated. Radiating true masculinity, models walked dressed up biker jackets and shearling coats. Suede-layered double-breasted coats and quilted puffers were perfectly paired with form-fitting trousers and black patent brogues. From abstract-printed trousers to tailored jackets in mohair, each look was perfectly complimented with leather duffle bags and zipped totes. As the color palette majorly consisted of bright navy blue and smoky black, some other pastels like purple, military green and hints of mustard were used during the show.
Ermanno Scervino:The Italian fashion label showcased a collection that had certain manliness and a wintery-appeal to it. As models cozied up in double-breasted tweed coats and shearling cabans, one could not get their eyes of the rich pea coats worn under turtleneck knitted cardigans. From geometric checks to textured cashmere, the collection boasted of a certain elegance that truly catered to the modern Italian man. With a subtle color palette of dusky grey, camel and jet black; a lot of ombrè, yellow and smoky red was also used in the collection.
Stella Jean: The Italian-Haitian designer’s AW collection boasted of a rich and colorful palette, accompanied by a speck of inspiration from India. From textured cabans with notched lapels, models wore block-printed waistcoats under multi-colored trousers that perfectly fitted the body. A lot of patchwork could be seen done on tailored jackets that were worn under cashmere knitted cardigans with a turtleneck collar. Also, many garments had a rich colorful printed landscape that truly showed the designer’s creative aesthetic. With classic brogues in plaid and leather, Stella made every model wear the Indian “maang-tikka” as her interpretation of the modern Indo-Italian male. A very bright and strong color palette was used in the collection that included pastels such as red, burnt brown, mustard, navy blue and tangerine.
Julian Zigreli: The Swiss designer’s latest AW collection was all about relaxed silhouettes that were effortless and apt for the wintery weather. From loosely fitted t-shirts to metallic trenches, nearly each and every look was perfectly matched with knitted joggers and patent lace-ups in black and mustard. Also, a lot of knitted sweaters were worn beneath draped shrugs and zipper jackets. A warm color palette containing of solid pastels like grey, black and tangerine was used with hints of lavender-blue and rusty mustard.
Giorgio Armani: The Italian label famous for men’s tailoring set the standards high for other designers in terms of cut and finesses. Set in a neutral color scheme of black, grey, navy and tan that complimented the wintry luxurious fabrics like shearling, velvet, leather. The collection displayed featured classic suits, classic leather jackets and an assortment of long and short coats. They were well accessorized with shearling stoles. The designer also featured an array of pants in a variety of fabrics like corduroy, wool and fits like straight fit and loose.
Roberto Cavalli: The acclaimed designer went for a neutral black, white and white color palate this menswear collection. He took luxury to higher grounds with men draped in luxe fur coats. Men walked down the ramp in skinny and regular fit pants. Sticking to the traditional winter silhouettes with ponchos, fur coats and an assortment of long and short jackets with a flavor of Cavalli imbibed in the garments.
Christian Pellizzari: The collection was mainly neutral with a colour palate set in shades of black, blue, grey, white and navy blue. Men walked down in a range of wintry fabrics like silk, leather, wool in a range of regular, fitting and loose pants. The collection had a quirky vibe with patchwork, stripes, geometric prints and floral prints.
The five day extravaganza to MFW A/W’2016 went by quite quickly. Day 5 was short and sweet seven designer show! From Roberto Cavalli’s fur seduction to Armani’s luxe assortment of winter fabrics. Its hard to believe the Italian fashion fantasy finally ended.
