For Christian Dior haute couture collection, Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux return to the source, the foundation of the House: the ateliers. Presented in the couture salons of 30 Avenue Montaigne—an intimate setting for a collection of The Bar suit, the essence of Dior, being the principal inspiration.
But the inspiration goes beyond form, the signature silhouette of hourglass jacket and full skirt, encompassing every aspect of the Bar in the original palette, brilliantly contrasting black and white.
Meier and Ruffieux began with the skirt, experimenting with pleating and draping in the evening dresses and long skirts. Their linings, layers of organza to add body, become garments in their own right, like X-rays of archive garments.
The New Look’s volumes are made lighter, more contemporary: it is the spirit of the atelier flou fulfilled by the atelier tailleur. The jacket itself is deconstructed, either elongated at the basque, or drawn in vertically and gathered, adding animation and movement, a new look, a Dior spirit.
