Miuccia Prada had turned the clichés of an exotic holiday on their head, and a bevy of vaguely Thirties women’s looks created especially for the show — came fast and furious: Hawaiian shirts, broken suits, satin-y blousons, and leisure shoes cloaked in rubber. As elsewhere in Milan, the colors were exceptionally dark for a spring collection, but Prada sparked her sale-rack vintage palette with bold and lively prints mingling jungle foliage and pinup girls, even splashing them onto leather briefcases and weekenders.


The big surprise of the show was her relaxed silhouette in six-button double-breasted or single-breasted jackets, either in lustrous wools or crisp cotton. They looked sensational over silky printed shirts and Prada’s new full-legged trousers.