Bondage, Goth and Untamed described Sabyasachi’s couture show today as he opened AICW. And what did we see? A Goth covered set, more like a prison, where walls were draped with chunks of cloth and the glitzy chandeliers felt as if they hadn’t been used for years together. The collection was an interesting mix of both menswear as well as womenswear and you could definitely see the amount of time spent meticulously by Sabya’skarigars to make create garments that were a dream come true. Jackets for were embroidered fully as each one was accompanied by mandarin collars and floor-sweeping chunnis, it almost felt like a royal Nawab walking on a charred deserted path. Women walked wearing high-waisted lehengas followed by cape-ponchos that were so delicately embroidered, it was hard to believe whether they were a part of this couture creation or not. Column gowns with exaggerated sleeves plunged into scooping necklines that were carefully appliquéd with hand-placed gold circular sequins. And then there were these crinkled body suits, often worn with flowy capes, each one was crafted with delicate fabrics like lightweight tulle and of course… Maheshwari silk. Heavy lacework and intricate threadwork was incorporated onto kurta pajamas for both men as well as women. A color palette, usually onto the darker side, included bold pastels of black, rouge, forest green, rust and faded almond. And last but not the least, French shoemaker, Christian Louboutin had specially designed the footwear for the show. From tasseled strappy platforms for women to pointed patent brogues for men, each piece was hand-embroidered in the iconic Sabyasachi pattern. There was a certain ruthlessness and aggression to this collection that made it so special, as un understated elegance went hand-in-hand with unmatched excellence.
Contributed by – Duhin Ganju
pics by – vidushi Gupta