Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar
(DAY – 2)
Day 2 of London Fashion Week continued as some of the best-known Brit designers showcased uber-cool and relaxed creations. From Jasper Conran’s geometric beauties to Emilia Wickstead’s Japanese-inspired geishas, it was a perfect combination of design aesthetics and heritage craftsmanship. As floral and abstract patterns were the frontrunners, a subtle array of pastels was incorporated onto each and every garment.
The day began with Mother of Pearl under the design direction of Amy Powney who showcased a collection that was heavily inspired by the artisanal heritage of the brand ethos. A sporty-chic collection, a lot of minimalistic floral patterns could be seen on incorporated on straight-cut garments. Tunic dresses with mandarin collars were paired with textured skirts and sturdy leather totes. Suede cardigans were intricately textured with a floral abstract pattern, followed by laser-cut harem pants. Chiffon dresses with bow detailing were followed by gingham emblazoned zipper jackets and perfectly accessorized with rust brown oxford brogues. A very sober color palette was followed throughout the collection and some of the pastels included baby pink, lime yellow, tangerine, black and chocolate brown.
Then stepped in Orla Kiely whose collection invoked a sense of heritage evident through traditional use of print and fabric. Models showcased her garments while they silently walked through the library in outfits that were nostalgic of the bygone era of the Sixties and Seventies. The colour scheme of the Sixties was incorporated into the garments like pastel pink, orange, pale green and yellow. From a sandy double-breasted trench-coat to a knee-length striped dress with a peter-pan collar to a cashmere cardigan paired with a mini-skirt, the looks were symbolic of good-old times. These were also accessorized with matching patterned bags.
The highly acclaimed British designer, Jasper Conran’s fall collection was all about the use of bold geometric as well as abstract patterns. A lot of suede was used to craft the ‘utterly wintery’ collection as models swayed on a runway covered with maple leaves. From slouchy overcoats to leather zippers, pleated shirts were paired with frilled and flowy skirts. Tunic dresses and oversized knitted duffle sweaters were perfectly paired with peek-a-boo hats and leather sandals. Zigzag patterns were incorporated onto U-shaped dresses that were clasped to the waist with a suede bow. The designer used a very sober color palette and some of the bold pastels ranged from forest green, deep maroon to navy blue and chocolate brown with slight infusions of deep aubergine and rich burgundy.
Faustine Steinmetz took on everyday items like denims, t-shirts, sneakers and gave them a completely modern makeover like a piece of art. The cleverly conceptualized garments breathed in fresh air into classics. The outfit that really stood out was the denim pencil skirt which didn’t look like denim but felt like it in an arty way.
Moving on, Emilia Wickstead portrayed a rich influence of a Japanese geisha in her latest AW collection. From textured asymmetric dresses to bell-sleeved tunics, a lot of suede and tweed was used to design the richly layered garments. Plunging jumpsuits and T-shaped dresses were followed by belted peplum tops and abstract-textural skirts. Even patent vinyl overcoats were paired with exaggerated notch-lapel dresses. Tapered trousers and turtleneck cardigans were accessorized with strappy leather sandals. One of the standouts of the show was the burnt copper evening A-line gown that had a banded neckline and a high-slit opening. Models were drenched in a wide array of colors and some of the pastels included tones of lavender, breezy blue, copper, classic black, beige and ruby red.
Sibling put together asophisticated showcase of the confident woman. It incorporated intricate details and featured a range of luxurious fabrics to dive in. The collection revolved around colours like pink, orange, black and cobalt blue. The quirky designers presented solid colours, tribal prints, stripes and checks in their usual mannerisms but this time played it more with embellishments, shearling trims, sparkle and pairing contrasting fabrics together.
With a Gothic-chic approach towards design and a past work apprenticeship with labels like Givenchy and Alexander McQueen, Julien Macdonald’sshow was an absolute must-watch. With the use of extravagant embellishments and intricate lacework, each garment made a style statement of its own. Strapless dresses and plunging body suits had layers and layers of hand-placed sequins. Structured hemlines and corseted boostiers were crafted from exotic fabrics like snakeskin and calf leather. High-slit banded dresses were belted to perfection and this was followed by off-shoulder leather gowns that were accessorized with leather gloves. Bodycon suits and pleated skirts were worn with bandaged tops and suede pumps. The designer used a very dark color palette that consisted of solid pastels like copper, black, bottle green, velvety blue and dazzling silver with hints of deep claret.
Markus Lupfer brought spring to life in a garden like display on the runway. It had a typical London girl attitude to it. The collection possessed a modern sports-luxe viber to it. Jacquard dresses, chunky sweaters, shimmering skirts, floral sunglasses and glittering sneakers made their appearances on the runway.
The Scottish designer Holly Fulton’s Fall collection was all about relaxed modern luxury. From rich and embellished fabrications to multi-layered surfaces, a lot of attention to detail was kept in mind while designing the complex graphic embellishments. A true reflective of the brand’s design aesthetics, models walked wearing unstructured silk blouses and tapered woolen trousers. Long leather overcoats had intricate embroidery done on the collars and cuffs. Halter neck dresses were laced to perfection and this was followed by patterned blazers and A-line tulle skirts. A lot of Mongolian fur was used to craft oversized coats and line embellished cuffs. Sculpted bodices were adorned with organza blooms and crystal beadwork. A very light color palette was followed to design the extravagant collection as model were enveloped in pastel shades of almond, off-white, olive green, rose-pink, purple, burgundy and ombré.
Known as the ‘Dark Lord of Dramatic Fashion’, Danielle Romeril delivered on point today. It had a futuristic vision where one could not shop anymore so one had to make do with what was left. It was set in a neutral colour palate like black, white, cream and grey. The silhouettes showcased were loose and baggy which were made of velvet, lace, plaid and technical quilting. The designer also incorporated capes which is a hot trend on the fall runway this year.
The Brazilian designer, Lucas Mascimento did a fine job with his AW collection and each garment was crafted with utmost sophistication and refinery. From knitted fabrications to textured silhouettes, the whole collection was a futuristic and a modern take on classic signature styles. From deep V-neck jumpsuits to floral cashmere cardigans, nearly all tapered trousers contained crushed gold embellishments. A lot of rich garments like lambskin leather and suede were used to create fine feminine silhouettes that were seductively feminine. Slouchy jumpsuits and tulle skirts had a lot of uni-linear patterns that were adorned with glitzy embellishments. Models were drenched in pastels of blue, maroon, rust, purple and black.
J W Anderson Women showcased a rather off-beat collection which had a certain vibe of futuristic elements to it. Like his Fall Menswear Collection, the designer incorporated leather heaps galore this time as well. The colour palate was set in black, ivory, shades of brown, touches of forest green and orange. The looks were majorly accessorized with knee-high leather boots with metal knobs to the side. From solid colors to graphic prints, the main emphasis laid was on the cut and drape of the garments. From fitted dresses with exaggerated shoulders to overtly loose jackets with kimono sleeves, a range of silhouettes were showcased.
Moving on, 1205, the British label, founded by Paula Gerbase, showcased a collection that was a sartorial take on a sporty-chic look. Being a Saville Row tailor at Kilgour, her design aesthetics could be evidently seen on carefully structured garments. Bold knitted cardigans were paired with flared pants and patent brogues. Fitted jackets were worn over crinkled shirts that contained mandarin collars. Oversized weatherproof shirts had patch pockets, followed by checkered trousers and belted jackets. Even though the collection was utterly minimalistic, there was an extreme subtlety to each and every look that made it standout from the crowd. The color palette consisted of simple, yet bold pastels like beige, dusky grey, deep navy and black.
Simone Rocha’s collection showcased feminine dressing with a dark facet to it. The collection had a subtle hint towards Bourgeois. The colour palate was set in neutral tones in black, white, cream and red. It involved floral motifs set in dark tones, brocade work, 3-D flowers the garments. A lot of sheer was used in this collection. From knee-length lengths outfits to short dresses, a variety of hemlines including asymmetric ones were also used.
Day 2 at London Fashion Week Fall’2015 ended dramatically with Gareth Pugh’s Collection.The show was rather dramatic as strong, bold and rebellious women walked the ramp in his dark collection. It was an all-black collection with Red Cross marks across the face. It majorly featured full A-line skirts with dramatic collars, dresses in spiky straw fringes added to the dark warrior fantasy.
With designers showcasing bold personalities on the runway, each aesthetic was strong yet unique in their own way. Day 2 at London just made us more curious as to what to expect next on Fall runways for 2015.
