Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar

(DAY-4)

Day 4 of the Paris menswear mania saw some of the biggest names in fashion that showcased awe-inspiring collections. From Dior’s minimalistic tailored silhouettes to Kenzo’s interesting mix of uber-cool colors, no stones were left unturned as each house came up with an interesting array of design aesthetics that was true to their heritage as well as the strenuous craftsmanship.

Kenzo: The French luxury brand, under the design direction of Mr. Kenzo Takada, showcased a collection that was relaxed and modern in every way possible. Bold knitted turtleneck cardigans were worn under form-fitting trousers and perfectly accessorized with leather brogues as well as crushed tote carryalls. Rich and authentic fabrics like shearling and cashmere were used to craft single-breasted cabans and slouchy jumpsuits. Touching the modern aesthetics of design, a lot of abstract graphic print could be seen on puffed-up bomber jackets and weatherproof coats. With olive green and tangerine being the standout colors, a blend of interesting pastels like peacock blue, lavender and maroon were used to create perfectly structured garments.

Songzio: The Korean-based luxury brand showcased a collection that was classic, rich and luxurious. Classic tuxedos, duffle coats and oversized trenches were extensively layeredwith shearling and cashmere. A lot of leather ranging from grainy calfskin to exotic python was used to create beautifully tailored garments that were strikingly mannish and extremely dapper. Biker jackets and woolen Chesterfields were innovatively paired with Darby shoes and patent lace-ups. The whole collection was centered on the classic ‘black’ color but one could also see traces of dark camel and bottle green in the collection.

Dior Homme: An orchestral line-up, a perfect amalgamation of evening tuxes with sporty sneakers and the very minimalistic tailored silhouettes; Dior’s much anticipated AW show was an absolute stunner. Under the design direction of Kris Van Assche, the French luxury house showcased a collection that radiated class and modernity. Evening tuxedos with sharp tailcoats and classic suits were worn under tapered trousers and denim pants. As men strikingly walked in double-breasted suits, one could not get their eyes-off the long Chesterfields that were tailored to perfection. Leather cabans with shearling collars were draped in plaid checks of bright yellow and worn under woolen waistcoats. Also, classic bow ties and patent leather sneakers, followed by leather duffle bags, made the perfect accessory match for the “Modern Dior Man”. Following a very minimalistic color palette, dark pastels like black and grey with hints of royal blue and maroon were used in the entire collection.

Miharayasuhiro: The Japanese designer’s AW collection was relaxed, colorful and yet radiated a modern appeal to it. From flowy denim jackets to tailored woolen suits, models walked in form-fitting trousers that were worn with two-toned patent Oxford shoes. Also, the collection contained a lot of heavy patchwork garments like biker jackets and straight-fit cargos that were absolute standouts. Oversized fringed cashmere scarves were worn with buttoned cardigans and slouched shirts. The color palette mainly consisted of rich colors such as navy blue, olive green, pale mustard, deep ombré and classic black.

AMI: The French fashion house, founded by Alexandre Mattuissi, showcased a rich wintery collection that comprised of relaxed tailored suits mixed with superb wool topcoats. Slouchy Chesterfields in cashmere and tweed were worn beneath knitted turtleneck cardigans and puffed leather bombers. Also exaggerated shearling collars were used to make loosely fitted pea coats that were matched perfectly with tapered trousers and laced English brogues. The color palette mainly comprised of solid pastels like black and navy blue with hints of tangerine and classic white.

Sacai: With men walking the ramp amidst the misty blue frigid tinge in the air, the collection definitely emphasized on winter fashion. The designer played with shades of blue in the garments showcased by him. From plaids coats, animal-print pants, striped cardigans to ponchos, the designer left no stones unturned when it came to the latest trends that made their big appearances this year in menswear fashion.

Etudes Studio:  The collection showcased by the creative directors Aurélien Arbet and Jérémie Egry had an ultra-modern street vibe to it. The garments followed a colour scheme in bright red, cerulean blue, navy blue, grey, black and white. It probably emphasized on the hustle-bustle of city life with bold prints like ‘day-to-day, 24-7-365 & in time’ etc. Dungarees, bomber jackets and satchels also made their appearances. The look was accessorized with brogues that complemented the overall look.

Wooyoungmi: The designer went traditional in terms of colour, as a range of garments were featured in dull wintry shades like navy blue, chocolate brown, plum, grey, cream and black. The looks were practical and utilitarian as men wore cardigans, jackets, trench coats, blazers, regular-fit trousers. Sticking to simplicity, the designer majorly went for plain winter wear that was devoid of prints and patterns.

Hermes:  The heritage fashion house exuded a sense of tradition with a subtle modern appeal. Taking pride in their heritage, the collection consisted of classic suits with single or double-breasted coats and straight-fit pants paired with a Hermes scarf. As the collection progressed, the looks became more relaxed as men walked down in cardigans, loose fitting pants and even paired the loose bottoms with the traditional suit. Calfskin leather jackets with a shearling trim symbolized luxe winter fashion. Geometric prints also added to the simplicity. Overall, the looks were kept clean, simple yet sophisticated, a signature of this luxury brand.

Day 4 of Paris Fashion Week menswear saw an interesting mix of designers. From Wooyoungmi and Hermes’s simplicity and sophisticated collection, Etudes Studio’s ultra-modern street vibe to Sacai’s trend-friendly collection, the fashion scene witnessed versatility in winter-wear at its best!

Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar

(DAY- 3)

Day 3 of the Parisian manly affairs kick started with designers who showcased collections involving tailored outerwear and bespoke craftsmanship. Adding a lot of color to each collection, some of the biggest names in French fashion like Givenchy and Junya Watanabe left no stones unturned with their extensively detailed garments that was a true reflection of the brand’s unparalleled heritage and an ode to the Parisian tailors.

Junya Watanabe: The Japanese designer’s AW collection was all about eveningwear as well as work-to-wear tailoring. As models walked the red carpet, one could not get their eyes off the beautifully crafted tuxedos that perfectly fitted the modern man. From double-breasted suits with shawl lapels to long Chesterfields with patch pockets, almost each look was perfectly complimented with a silk bow tie and a striking top hat. Making each model look like a true English gentleman, a lot of tweed and Mohair was used to create tuxedos that beautifully fitted the male torso. Also, each model finished the look wearing fine tapered trousers and accessorized cashmere-knitted scarves with two-toned Oxford shoes made from grainy as well as patent leather. Maintaining a very minimalistic color palette, pastels like black, navy blue, smoky grey and white were used throughout the collection.

Ann Demeulemeester: The Belgian designer showcased a collection that was strikingly mannish in each and every way possible. From weatherproof coats to silk tuxedos, a lot of shearling was extensively used to detail collars of various tailored garments. Rich furry cabans and double-breasted Chesterfields were worn beneath classic black shirts and slim-fit woolen trousers. Perfectly accessorizing each look were the patent leather brogues crafted from 100% calfskin in deep tones of ruby red and smoky black. A very rich color palette consisting of black, military green and dusky grey with hints of mustard and navy blue was used in the entire collection.

Junn J: A lot of traditional Japanese influences could be seen in the Korean designer’s AW collection. From slouchy silhouettes to relaxed garments, the collection overall had a “boho” feel to it. Classy leather bombers had extra layers of quilting to it, accompanied by an extravagant fur lining. Loosely fitted jackets had plastic pockets and worn beneath form-fitting cardigans as well as zipped flared pants. Adding a modern touch to the whole collection were the patent leather lace-up sneakers that gave an uber-cool look to all the garments. The designer used a very simple color palette that included solid pastels like black, navy blue, steel grey and olive green.

Cerruti: The Italian luxury house, under the design direction of Aldo Maria Camillo, showcased a collection that was warm, subtle and luxurious. From suede cabans to turtleneck duffle coats, models walked confidently wearing fitted black trousers with patent brogues and knitted scarves. Also, single-breasted trenches and leather biker jackets were worn over hand-knitted cashmere sweaters and long woolen overcoats. A very rich color palette including intense pastels like biscuit, burgundy, ombré, navy blue and black was used in the entire collection.

Givenchy: With a blood-red runway and a voodoo-inspired Goth show space, Givenchy’s AW collection was an absolute show stunner. Under the design direction of Riccardo Tisci, models walked wearing tailored jackets and graphic-printed knits. With a sharp take on femininity, even women swayed the audience in heavily sequined gowns and wore elaborate masks to compliment the dark mood of the show. Some of the standout pieces from this menswear collection were the heavily embroidered jackets that were sequined to perfection. A perfect example of Parisian craftsmanship, the French house left no stones unturned as a lot of geometrical stripes and intricate designs could be seen on each and every garment. Tapered as well as striped trousers were excellently matched with patent brogues crafted from super-authentic fabrics like calfskin and exotic crocodile. Following a very rich color palette, Riccardo used intense pastels like classic black, deep red, burnt camel and pale white for designing dreamy outfits that made a statement on their own.

Berluti: The Italian luxury house, famous for their leather products, showcased a collection that was elegant, modern and chic. From clean and classy silhouettes; pastels such as bottle green, mustard, deep claret, grey and black were the major highlights of the show. Models wore slim-fit and relaxed suits over V-neck and knitted cardigans. Also, loose overcoats with notched lapels were worn with slim-fit trousers and colorful silk scarves. A lot of tweed, cashmere and lambskin leather was used to craft garments that were perfectly accessorized with leather duffle bags and patent lace-ups.

MaisonMargiela: Galliano presented his first menswear collection under MaisonMargielawith an influence of the 70s in terms of colour and aesthetics. Tangerine, canary yellow and lavender were some of the colours that stood out in his winter collection. Some of his pieces reminisced summer as men sported floral pants and long coats in warm summery tones. This collection was devoid of Galliano’s signature style of theatricality as the garments were kept clean and the designer kept it low-key.

Melindagloss: The collection maintained simplicity yet elegance, a very Parisian way of putting it so. Attention was paid more so on the tailoring and the little details of the ensembles. Shades of camel, cream, red, navy blue, white and black adhered to the French aesthetics of colour.  The looks sported by the men were contemporary classics that falls between sticking to tradition and breathing into it some fresh air.

Krisvanassche: The Belgium fashion designer certainly exuded confidence in the urban-sport inspired collection with a borrowed sense of tradition. The silhouette was masculine with wintry aesthetics in terms of fabric but the funk-factor shone through prints and patchwork. Incorporating funky prints in bright colours and contrasting them with duller colours made some bold statement pieces on the runway. Bright reds, metallic green, metallic wine and cerulean blue shades stood out in contrast to navy blue, deep wine and dull blue ensembles.

Commes des Garcons: Like other designers, the collection put a completely quirky spin on the classics. The designer focused on reinventing classics, something pretty evident when you looked at the bottoms that consisted of knee-length regular-fit shorts in shades of black, smoky-grey, light grey in the initial few pieces of the collection. The look to those sober ensembles were completed with colorful printed leg-warmers till the knee. It was also accessorized with long, droopy hats almost covering the eyes. Mid-collections, bright printed separates with the leg warmers definitely commanded attention. Towards the end of the collection, garments showcased were in a checkered b/w colour palate. Zebra and Dalmatian print also featured in coats, hoodies including a mask to complete the white ensemble.

Henrik Vibskov: The Danish fashion designer definitely brought boldness and masculinity on the runway with his eye-catching collection. It featured relaxed and loose silhouettes in a variety of shades like red, navy blue, white, cerulean blue and browns. A versatile range of trends like plaid, abstract prints and stripes were featured. Coats with exaggerated shoulders further highlighted masculinity. The designer also featured regular-fit, anti-fit and fitted pants in his collection.

 

Day 3 of PFW saw designers constantly innovating and re-inventing traditional suits. From Margiela’s low key collection to Krisvanassche’s party with prints and colour, today’s collection definitely saw versatility of aesthetics with an undertone of the Parisian way of dressing.

Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar

(DAY -2)

Day 2 of Paris Fashion Week kick started with designers showcasing collections that were based on solid color pastels and minimalistic silhouettes. From Phillip Lim to Yoji Yahamoto, no stones were left unturned as a lot of navy blue and black was also used in the garments that definitely made a statement of their own.

3.1 Phillip Lim: The American designer’s AW collection was all about relaxed silhouettes and effortless cuts. From geometrical cuts to loose-fitted garments, models wore quilted jackets and leather bombers over cashmere-knit turtlenecks. Military-inspired coats in checks and abstract prints were worn over form-fitting zipper jackets. Also, perfectly complimenting each look were crushed duffle bags as well as grainy totes matched with suede as well as patent leather boots. The designer followed a very simple color palette that included simple tones of olive green, navy blue and black with hints of white and chocolate brown.

Kolor: The innovative Japanese brand founded by Junichi Abe, showcased a collection that revolved around warm and subtle colors like brown, camel, tangerine and grey with hints of mustard and dark blue. With a strong emphasis on fabrics like cashmere and Mohair, models walked in round-neck cardigans worn under oversized duffle coats. Also, a lot of tailoring perfectly amalgamated with the subtle collection and garments like fitted jackets worn with tapered trousers were the major standouts. A lot of geometric patterns and uniform lines were used on most of the garments as each look was perfectly accessorized with suede leather bag packs and nubuck sneakers.

Andrea Crews: The “alter ego” created by designer Maroussia Rebecq showcased a collection that was playful, casual yet contained a certain manliness to it. With a lot of abstract prints, models walked wearing oversized zipper jackets and extra-large capes. Puffed-up and quilted bombers were perfectly paired with patent brogues and form-fitting trousers crafted from a blend of vinyl-leather. A lot of polyester and recycled leather was used in the collections, with some of the models wearing printed shorts and jet-black stockings. A very simple color palette was used, including pastels like black and white with hints of steel grey and bright orange.

Boris Bidjan Saberi: The Munich-based designer’s AW collection was a perfect amalgamation of classic colors like black and white with a bright plum number. Inspired by the hip-hop culture, models wore unstructured overcoats and double-breasted jackets over knitted cardigans and cotton shirts. With ankle-length sneakers and knitted hats, as the perfect accessories, a lot of lambskin leather was used in the creation of fitted garments that included short jackets and 3/4^th trousers.

Yohji Yahamoto: The Japanese-based designer, known for his fine tailoring and craftsmanship, did a wonderful job with his AW collection. In solid tones of classic black, white, beige and plum red; models walked the runway wearing fitted double-breasted tuxedos and loosely fitted knitted cardigans. Unstructured trousers were worn under calfskin lace-ups. A lot of patchwork could be seen done on tailored jackets as well as crispy-white shirts. The collection was truly crafted to cater the body of a modern man and the standout pieces from the show were the textured suits crafted from super-authentic velvet material.

Julius: The Japanese label, run by Tatsuro Horikawa, showcased a collection that was dark and classy, yet contained an avant-garde edge to it. From oversized quilted jackets to leather turtleneck bombers, skinny-fit trousers were perfectly paired with leather boots. In reference to the brand’s heritage, a lot of fine tailored garments were crafted from different leathers like grainy calfskin and exotic snakeskin. A classic color palette consisting of black and white was used in the entire collection.

Damir Doma: There was a sense of warmth & comfort that glowed in this particular collection. A range of wintry shades like black, dark grey, light grey, dark chocolate brown was visible with a dash of canary yellow.Models walking the ramp this collection had a rectangular silhouette. They donned cardigans, kimono jackets, long coats and sheer long-sleeved tops. Men majorly sported high-waist pants apart from the classic suit ensemble shown mid collection. Striped suits in grey and brown certainly had a vintage charm.

Issey Miyake Men: The collection started with a showcase of classics as men walked down in black and ink-blue suits accessorized with sleek laptop bags. The ensembles were completed with regular, ankle-length pants and loose harem pants. The sober colour scheme soon burst briefly into some colours like red, yellow, green, baby pink and light blue. The collection slowly progressed into looser silhouettes with long jackets followed by striped tops. Garments later delved into luxury as men donned floral textured velvet ensembles in shades of red and black. The Japanese designer ended it on a geometric note.

Rick Owens: The American fashion designer surely grabbed eyeballs for showcasing full frontal nudity in some of his outfits. The garments showcased had a sporty/boho vibe to it. The designer incorporated a sporty funk with classics by pairing double-breasted coats with shorts and knee-length shorts. Loose chest/flesh- baring silhouettes in olive, brown and black with a side-fringe giving it the boho spirit. The attention-grabbing show ended with long hooded-coats with exaggerated shoulders to reflect masculinity and strength.

Louis Vuitton: Louis Vuitton’s collection felt like a trail in the woods.The heritage fashion house incorporated hand-embroidered abstract pattern that added a sense of regality through simplicity and colour. The wintry collection featured a range of sober shades like camel, grey, white, cream and dark brown. Men sported the brand’s heritage backpacks and satchels. Duo-toned leather shoes added a sense of sport and roughness. Combining different print-on-print added a sense of boldness to the looks.

Dries Van Noten: The Belgian fashion designer with an eponymous fashion brand showcased his collection beginning with heavy military and nautical inspired garments with vibe of cool street-style. Brown, white, navy blue and camel are shades that play along quite well with the above mentioned influences. Double-breasted trench coats with straight fit pants completed the look. It gradually merged towards floral in navy blue long double-breasted jackets. The highlight of the collection was a double-breasted coat which was hand-embroidered and embellished with sequins and a shearling lining.

Day 2 of the coveted Paris Fashion Week uncovered an array of designer visions. From Louis Vuitton’s woody collection, Issey Miyake’s geometric splurge to Rick Owen’s attention grabbing flesh-display, PFW definitely made things very interesting on the runway.

Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar

(DAY-1)

Day 1 of the Parisian extravaganza kick started with some of the biggest names in French fashion. From Raf Simons to Christophe Lemaire, no stones were left unturned as designers showcased collections that portrayed sheer minimalism with pop of quirky colors. Simple cuts and artistic silhouettes made all of the fashion shows a worth watch.

Christophe Lemaire: The French designer did a great job with his AW collection showcasing garments that were clean and simple. Also, being the artistic director for Hermès, he used a very minimalistic color palette that included classic pastels like jet black, smoky grey, navy blue and crystal white. From loose cabans to form-fitting pea coats in notched lapels, each and every look was perfectly paired with woolen straight-fit trousers and black patent leather lace-ups. Even cashmere ponchos and turtleneck cardigans were worn beneath crispy white shirts. Simple and chic, the designer’s collection was truly crafted to fit the modern gentleman.

Walter Van Beirendonck: The Belgian designer’s collection dashed truckloads of eye-catching color that brought out his uber-cool design aesthetic. From loose-fitted vinyl trousers to duffle coats with abstract prints, models perfectly accessorized the looks with beige sneakers and chunky necklaces. Also, tailored jackets were worn with tapered trousers that flared towards the bottom. A lot of patchwork could be seen done on shearling coats using plastic-vinyl cutouts that brought out that “cool” look to the whole collection. A very playful color palette was used by the designer that included bright pastels such as baby pink, navy blue and forest green with hints of yellow and tangerine.

Haider Ackermann: With a backdrop of jet-black, the Colombian designer’s AW collection had certain manliness and a rich look to it. A lot of shearling, cashmere, lambskin leather and velvet were used in the collection. From animal-print shearling coats to velvet tailored jackets, models wore skinny-fit leather leggings and black patent brogues beneath. Solid silk scarves and fur hats were the picture-perfect accessories that almost all the men wore to complete the look. Solid pastels like olive green, deep claret and royal blue were used to magnify each garment in the collection.

Raf Simons: Probably one of the most anticipated shows of the day, the head designer for Dior did justice to his very own AW collection. Relaxed, sporty and comfortable, the whole collection revolved around warm pastels like camel and dark brown with hints of candy red. From slouchy silhouettes to abstract graphic prints, models wore cashmere duffle coats over knitted sweaters cut in V-necks as well as boat-necks. Also, cut-sleeves showerproof overcoats were richly crafted from leather, cotton and vinyl. Black and beige sneakers were worn underneath fitted woolen trousers, tapered to the waist. With a neon green runway, all the garments had a warm color palette that included pastels like camel, Chocolate brown and black with hints of pop red and intense yellow.

Valentino: The collection featured by the acclaimed Italian fashion house went big on geometric triangles.Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri featured garments in a colour palate of grey, maroon, tan, navy blue, red. Some of the biggest trends on Valentino’s runway were plaid, stripes, patchwork and print. The Italian designer put a modern twist to traditional silhouettes with leather patchwork details. Military print further added the sense of masculinity with leather backpacks and cardigans. Calfskin leather made its stylish appearance in leather gloves & patchwork jackets in shades of maroon, black, white and navy blue. Geometric print suits elevated the elegance showcased even more.

Julien David: The designer kept it relaxed and cool with a classic and white collection. Classics were given a casual spin as men wore classic B/W ensembles with loose ties and undone collars. Bermuda shorts definitely captured attention in his A/W’2015-2016 collection. Accessorized in aviator shades with sleek briefcases in black and silver enhanced the overall look.

Y Project: The first thing that would strike you in this collection would probably be the sheen evident in the garments. Kicking off with a highly shiny blazer and pants ensemble, the designer moved on to lambskin leather separates in blue and black, trench coats with loose pants, houndstooth tweed teddy and slacks ensemble. There was an impeccable structure and finish to the garments. The collection included a colour palate of dark blues, camel, white and red.

Paris Fashion Week A/W’2015-2016 kicked off this season with a splash of sought-after designers. A range of designer aesthetics were showcased from Maison Valentino’s geometric extravaganza, Haider Ackermann’s luxe menswear look to Walter Van’s uber-cool designer vision. The excitement for what’s next on Day 2 has certainly kept us wanting some more in fashion’s hottest destination, Paris.

To mark the 25^th season of the fashion bonanza, the Indian Fashion Week (IFW), the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), announced the Autumn-Winter 2015 dates. As the IFW completes 15 year of its inception, the season’s heady offerings will take place from March 25-29, 2015, at the Pragati Maidan, New Delhi.

Talking about the current season of the India Fashion Week, Mr. Sunil Sethi, President FDCI said, “We are delighted to announce the dates for the IFW Autumn-Winter 2015. It is a time for commemoration for us as we have achieved, an emboldening milestone, having completed a decade-and-a-half in the business of taking fashion to imposing heights”.