Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar
(DAY-5)
As the men’s extravaganza in Paris came to an end, some of the biggest names in the fashion industry showcased strikingly dapper garments that were modern, a true reflection of the brand’s heritage. From Paul Smith’s geometric aesthetics to Tom Browne’s ‘black magic’ mania, the five days of rich glamour ended on a satisfactory note.
Agnès B: The French designer showcased a collection that was relaxed; yet radiating a sense of design aesthetics, which was a true exemplary of the brand’s fine effortless craftsmanship. From woolen duffle coats to leather jackets, the collection was wearable and sharp. A lot of lines and chequered patterns were used on tailored suits, worn under double-breasted cashmere cabans. Also, woolen trenches and tweed suits had been innovatively worn with detailed Ruff-collared shirts and silk bow ties. Perfectly accessorizing each look were the typical French hats and leather gloves worn with Mohair trousers and patent lace-ups. A lot of color had been used in the collection and the palette mainly consisted of solid pastels like black, dusky grey, navy blue and tangerine with hints of peach and bright mustard.
Rynshu: The Japenese-based designer’s AW collection was a perfect mix of cultural Goth and modern fiction. Rich and luxurious, the whole collection was all about embracing the ‘heavy-metal’ style with a twist. From heavily embellished jackets to tailored suits crafted from crocodile leather, a lot of graphics were used on comfortable tees as well was notched-lapel tuxedos. As models walked in form-fitting leather pants, one could not get their eyes off the strikingly mannish shades worn with floral-layered cabans. As a lot of gold and silver could be seen in the collection, the color palette revolved around classic pastels like black and white.
Paul Smith: With high-quality tailoring and a strikingly British attitude, Paul Smith’s AW collection was an absolute show stunner. Big triangles and squares dominated the collection, as models walked in geometrical patterned overcoats and shearling cabans. Cashmere sweaters were worn under bespoke suits and puffed-up bomber jackets. To perfectly accessorize the look, each model carried leather backpacks and walked like true gentlemen in patent loafers. A lot of attention was paid to the tailoring of garments that were drenched in sober pastels of steel grey, black, rust, maroon and olive.
Thom Browne: The American designer showcased a collection that was inspired by the Victorian era and had a Gothic influence to it. Centered only on classic colors like black and white, models walked in slim-fit suits crafted from cashmere and tweed. Long textured leather coats and quilted puffers were worn with low-cut trousers and even woolen shorts. Top hats, leather gloves and exotic briefcases were the perfect accessories designed for the show. Three-piece dapper suits were worn with shearling-lined cabans and chequered overcoats. As models walked the dusty black runway carrying umbrellas, it became very evident that the designer’s aesthetic sense was immensely inspired by the vintage era of the 70’s.
The five day French extravaganza in men’s fashion finally came to an end. Keeping it simple yet sophisticated and modern was the essence of the day. From Cifonelli’s fifty shades of grey tease toLanvin’s fine French sartorial choices, French opulence showed its way throughout the day today.
Lanvin: The French luxury label kept the collection clean and chic, quite French to put it this way. Keeping the colours of winter in mind, the designer, Alber Elbaz opted for sober shades like white, black, camel, deep wine & grey. Simplicity shone through the collection in terms of silhouette and colour as men donned black-on-black, grey-on-grey ensembles. It was also a perfect amalgamation of luxury winter fashion as fur coats, calf-skin jackets with a shearling trim made their appearances on the catwalk.
Cifonelli: The more than a century old tailoring house delivered finesse on the runway. With a range of bespoke suits crafted to perfection in shades of grey, brown and black, there is nothing more masculine in men’s dressing as far as the traditional suit goes. Christian Grey in my head would have been the perfect muse for the garments showcased for this established Roman fashion house’s collection.
UmitBenan: The collection seemed to have paid tribute to the fishermen of the seas for working in inhospitable terrain, something that was truly reflected in Benan’s rugged garments. The garments showcased corduroy overalls, long yellow rain coats, coats, cardigans and leather jackets in shades of sea blue, brown, live, yellow and grey. To also add to the fisherman feel, fishing rods and blue buckets played props to the ensemble.
Saint Laurent: The collection exuded a sense of cool with a rock star vibe with the perfect combination of sharp tailoring and fabrics used. Playing with a range of trends like polka dots, stripes, abstract & geometric prints, the collection was kept chic yet versatile. Smartly dressed men in shades and beretswas very eponymous to French way of dressing. The garments stood for luxurious winter fashion as men wore leather jackets and animal fur. Fitted pants further completed the look.