Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar

(DAY-5)

As the Italian menswear fashion mania came to an end, various designers showcased collection that were subtle and had a vibrant array of subtle colors. A majority of colors such as navy blue and smoky black was used in almost all the shows and almost each model walked in a garment that was a true exemplary of authentic Italian tailoring as well as craftsmanship.

Dirk Bikkembergs: The Belgian designer’s collection was sporty, chic and sophisticated. Radiating true masculinity, models walked dressed up biker jackets and shearling coats. Suede-layered double-breasted coats and quilted puffers were perfectly paired with form-fitting trousers and black patent brogues. From abstract-printed trousers to tailored jackets in mohair, each look was perfectly complimented with leather duffle bags and zipped totes. As the color palette majorly consisted of bright navy blue and smoky black, some other pastels like purple, military green and hints of mustard were used during the show.

Ermanno Scervino:The Italian fashion label showcased a collection that had certain manliness and a wintery-appeal to it. As models cozied up in double-breasted tweed coats and shearling cabans, one could not get their eyes of the rich pea coats worn under turtleneck knitted cardigans. From geometric checks to textured cashmere, the collection boasted of a certain elegance that truly catered to the modern Italian man. With a subtle color palette of dusky grey, camel and jet black; a lot of ombrè, yellow and smoky red was also used in the collection.

Stella Jean: The Italian-Haitian designer’s AW collection boasted of a rich and colorful palette, accompanied by a speck of inspiration from India. From textured cabans with notched lapels, models wore block-printed waistcoats under multi-colored trousers that perfectly fitted the body. A lot of patchwork could be seen done on tailored jackets that were worn under cashmere knitted cardigans with a turtleneck collar. Also, many garments had a rich colorful printed landscape that truly showed the designer’s creative aesthetic. With classic brogues in plaid and leather, Stella made every model wear the Indian “maang-tikka” as her interpretation of the modern Indo-Italian male. A very bright and strong color palette was used in the collection that included pastels such as red, burnt brown, mustard, navy blue and tangerine.

Julian Zigreli: The Swiss designer’s latest AW collection was all about relaxed silhouettes that were effortless and apt for the wintery weather. From loosely fitted t-shirts to metallic trenches, nearly each and every look was perfectly matched with knitted joggers and patent lace-ups in black and mustard. Also, a lot of knitted sweaters were worn beneath draped shrugs and zipper jackets. A warm color palette containing of solid pastels like grey, black and tangerine was used with hints of lavender-blue and rusty mustard.

Giorgio Armani: The Italian label famous for men’s tailoring set the standards high for other designers in terms of cut and finesses. Set in a neutral color scheme of black, grey, navy and tan that complimented the wintry luxurious fabrics like shearling, velvet, leather. The collection displayed featured classic suits, classic leather jackets and an assortment of long and short coats. They were well accessorized with shearling stoles. The designer also featured an array of pants in a variety of fabrics like corduroy, wool and fits like straight fit and loose.

Roberto Cavalli: The acclaimed designer went for a neutral black, white and white color palate this menswear collection. He took luxury to higher grounds with men draped in luxe fur coats. Men walked down the ramp in skinny and regular fit pants. Sticking to the traditional winter silhouettes with ponchos, fur coats and an assortment of long and short jackets with a flavor of Cavalli imbibed in the garments.

Christian Pellizzari: The collection was mainly neutral with a colour palate set in shades of black, blue, grey, white and navy blue. Men walked down in a range of wintry fabrics like silk, leather, wool in a range of regular, fitting and loose pants. The collection had a quirky vibe with patchwork, stripes, geometric prints and floral prints.

The five day extravaganza to MFW A/W’2016 went by quite quickly. Day 5 was short and sweet seven designer show! From Roberto Cavalli’s fur seduction to Armani’s luxe assortment of winter fabrics. Its hard to believe the Italian fashion fantasy finally ended.

Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar

(DAY-4)

Day 4 of Milan Fashion Week saw some big hits on the fashion runway. From toned-down garments to minimalistic silhouettes, designers showcased a rich array of luxurious garments and a true ode to the authentic Italian craftsmanship. Adding a dash of color to each and every collection, this day was a huge hit for warm pastels such as rust and camel, followed by simple classics like black, navy blue and white.

Diesel Black Gold: The luxury version of the famous denim brand left no stones unturned during their collection. With punked-up-outer-layers to Cuban heeled boots, a lot of denim was used in the collection. Models swayed the runway in leather biker jackets worn with slim-fitted ripped jeans. A lot of tailored garments such as formal jackets were accompanied by studded embellishments and patchwork, making the whole collection sporty and chic. A minimal color palette was used for the garments and it mainly comprised colors such as black, misty grey and royal blue, with slight hints of burnt maroon.

Antonio Marras: The Italian designer’s AW collection was all about “a warm comfortable walk with luxury clothing”. As a New York City yellow cab complimented the backdrop, models walked confidently in knitted cardigans and tapered trousers. From shearling-lined overcoats to leather quilted jackets, each look was perfectly accessorized with fur caps and block sneakers. Loosely fitted cabans and khaki print parkas were worn under skinny trousers and relaxed tees. A collection that was very mannish and likeable, the designer used a warm color palette of brown, almond and black with hints of deep red and white.

Etro: With the iconic “paisley” design, the Italian luxury house did a fine job with their AW 2015 collection. As a purple elephant stood in the backdrop, models walked in long floral cabans crafted from rich suede and silky velvet. From fitted jackets to double-breasted coats, each and every garment was tailored to perfection. The uber-cool accessories in the show were the suede hold halls, followed by leather brogues and cashmere scarves. A very rich and warm color palette consisting of solid pastels like chocolate brown, burgundy, dusty grey and black were used with slight hints of mustard and dull purple.

Canali: Under the creative consultancy of Andrea Pompilio, Canali’s AW collection boasted a true manliness with the brand’s heritage tailoring and craftsmanship. From double-breasted coats in tweed and cashmere to turtleneck knitted sweaters, gentlemen walked the runway carrying leather bags as well as digital cases. One of the front-runners from the shows was the evening suit in a deep claret shade that perfectly fitted the masculine body. The design color palette consisted of geometrical checks, followed by linear lines in shades of beige, black, dusty grey and mustard. It truly was an exemplary of effortless craftsmanship catering to the modern man.

Fendi: Under the design direction of Sylvia Venturini Fendi, the Italian brand showcased a collection that was chic and effortless, yet boasted certain manliness. From suede trench coats to knotted jackets, a lot of cashmere and leather was used in the collection. Woolen Chesterfields and fur cabans were worn under fitted trousers and black patent leather lace-ups. As models walked wearing long scarves with built-in pockets, the iconic “bag bugs” were amalgamated as the perfect lucky charms with tote bags crafted from calfskin leather. Keeping in mind the minimalistic approach that the brand continues to follow, a very simple color palette of black, dark brown and steel grey with hints of green and maroon was used in the entire show.

Brioni: The high-end Italian fashion house dominated the runway with bright blues that really caught the audience’s eye. From double-breasted coats to shearling jackets, Brioni’s AW collection was an absolute show-stunner. Dapper suits with notched lapels were worn over cashmere cardigans and perfectly paired with fitted trousers and leather lace-ups. The brand used a lot of leather in their garments that ranged from simple lambskin to exotic crocodile. Woolen duffle coats and silk plaid suits became absolute-must-wants and were matched with extra large cashmere scarves. The color palette mainly consisted of rich pastels like navy blue, steel grey, smoky black and subtle beige.

Emporio Armani: The Italian fashion brand was all about chic menswear with a muted colour palate in shades of navy blue, black, grey, camel and brown. The acclaimed menswear designer played with subtle prints on seemingly silk jackets with a combination of regular and baggy-fit pants. Fine Italian tailoring was quite evident in the classic coat-pant ensemble. From lambskin leather jackets to shearling stoles, the designer went winter all the way! It seemed like they underwent on a snowy expedition.

Gucci: As Gucci bid adieu to the unexpected farewell of Frida Giannini a month earlier than expected, thoughts about the collection left everyone puzzled. A fresh new Gucci chapter opened as head accessories designer, Alessandro Michele along with a group of young designers went back to the drawing board to redesign the entire collection. The collection was titled ‘Urban Romanticism’. The color palate consisted of tangerine, chocolate brown, cream, navy blue, army green, white and red. As both men and women walked down the ramp, the androgynous trend was quite. While military coats with brass buttons gave a subtle hint of the French Revolution, the Florentine label also played with lace in floral patterns. Men wore regular fit pants with the signature Gucci belts. Gucci was given a fresh makeover under a new direction of fresh talent.

MSGM: The collection displayed took you into a space odyssey with the prints the designer played with. From stars, constellations to rockets in black and grey ensembles, the colour palate for this collection was black, grey, baby pink, aquamarine, tangerine and navy. Corduroy, patent calf-skin leather and silk were some of the fabrics used. The designer also incorporated prints, polka dots, animal print and vertical stripes.

D.GNAK:  The collection kept a highly minimalist colour scheme in red, black and white. The designer kept it casual and sporty with rugby socks and loose silhouettes.  Opting for simple geometric patterns and prints men, the collection showcased was very to the point.

Tom Rebl:  A funky mix of metallic with black, the designer went glam all the way through his collection. The range of garments showcased prints, geometric and abstract patterns. Some of the silhouettes displayed had a touch of avant garde in terms of garment construction. From silk to shearling, the designer went luxe all the way. A variety of pant fits from loose to skintight were also on display.