For this season of LFW SR 15, designer Deepika Govind revisits the lovely Rann of Kutch and present a modern day interpretation of the land, through the fashionable Yogi’s memoirs who loved blue.
There was a simple man, who lived by the Ganges and followed the “yogic way” of life, but there was something unusual about him. He loved to dress and goes with the troops of Kumbh Yogis with wherever destiny took him and he kept a journal of his experiences and nomadic wanderings. On one such journey, he found himself in the land of Blue, Kutch, eminent for its vibrant cultures and indigenous craftsmanship with aesthetic sensibilities instilled with a majestic familiarity.
I marveled at the women of Kutch adorned in bright hues evoking the essence of desert flowers, unhindered by the new age structured organic layered weaves, long and flowy in an otherwise sapless desert land. Long dresses of the jat community, blouses of the Rabari community & long belted dresses of the khatris of Kutch really caught my eye more than anything, says the designer.
Embellished with beautifully handcrafted tribal ornaments the ensembles are homage to the indigenously grown organic KALA COTTON mostly found in the Kutch wilderness. As I was immersed in the beauty of some of the textiles of farek and gussets I further explored and grasped the existence of fine bandini, tie & dye, shibori, ajarak- a 2000year old resisit print craft in organic dyes, and Rabari embroideries. Magnified by the colorful organic dyes infused to the elegance of the women draped in Neel blues, organic kora colors, Rudraksh brown, desert browns, burgundy, mustard and mineral reds.
Center for Equality and Inclusion saluted men who have contributed to the women’s empowerment movement, a surprise wowmen first ever awards for men!! Do they deserve?
Known for his structured silhouettes and immaculately constructed suits Narendra Kumar opened a new flagship store at Dev Nibhru Building, Khar, Mumbai.
Moving on, Carven,showcased by the designer-duo Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud resonated effortless Parisienne chic. Drenched in shades of black, white, tangerine, red, navy-blue and grey, the collection was clean, non-fussy and utilitarian with an attitude of the 1960s’. Garments ranging from matching jacket and high-waist separates, a quilted parka, and mini-skirts were showcased on the runway. Floral prints shone on the runway with the embellished floral top, printed skirts, jackets and high-waist pants. The looks were accessorized with ankle-length socks and clogs.
The highly acclaimed Indian designer, Manish Arora brought a colorful sense of quirkiness to the runway with his highly embellished Fall collection. Known as the ‘John Galliano of India’, women donned futuristic armors in a psychedelic world of hallucinogenic colors that ranged from deep pinks and light greens to burning reds and gilded golds. A perfect marriage between texture and color, model donned Avant Garde outfits that were appliquéd with intricate Indian hand-embroideries. A lot of feather and gold sequins were emblazoned onto the glitzy costumes, making each one a true ‘dramatic affair’. From extravagant headgears to indigenously crafted handbags, there were truckloads of pop art involved in the meticulously crafted garments. A lot of fur was emblazoned onto bod-hugging jumpsuits and monochromatic LBD’s as models donned each look with colorful suede boots. Cap-sleeved tunics were corseted to the waist and paired with harem pants as intricate gold embroidery was followed by extensive beadwork. Embroidered bodices were appliquéd with gilded sequins as floor-length skirts boasted of a rich medieval elegance, embodied through a powerful-womanly silhouette.
At first glance, Ann Demeulemeester’s collection was edgy, rebellious with a modern appeal. The colour black dominated on the runway with dashes of white and red. The silhouettes revealed by the outfits were mostly vertical rectangular. Outfits like the plunge-neck loose tops including asymmetric ones were heavily accessorized with wide leather belts at the waist. While the show began with striped regular-fit pants, it also saw versatility with skinny-fits in varying leather shades take command over the runway. The looks were accessorized with leather gloves and boots.
Moving on, Paco Rabanne,the French luxury label, under the design direction of Julien Dossena, comprised of carefully structured garments with glittery embellishments. A-lined puffer dresses were worn with ankle-length pointy brogues, followed by oversized zipper jackets and asymmetric tunic dresses. Carefully tailored hemlines could be seen being incorporated on straight-fit dresses that were overloaded with large circular sequins. U-shaped blouses, crafted from rich silk and light sheer, were paired with tapered trousers and daring micro-minis. Wing tip collared shirts were worn over high-waisted jeans as models were enveloped in bold color palette that comprised of solid pastels like navy, black, gold and mustard.
The day got exciting with Balmain! The highly anticipated show under the creative direction of Olivier Rousteing certainly set the standards high at Paris Fashion Week A/W’2015-2016. The designer brought about new-age glamour with a bit of the Seventies vibe. The colours were rich, warm and vibrant in the collection. Colour-blocking in bright shades added to a quirky appeal. Stripes contributed to a slimmer and leggier looks on the runway. Pleats were showcased in outfits like an off-shoulder velvet and metallic jumpsuit and a purple peplum skirt. Florals weren’t left far behind with sheer-chiffon jumpsuits and head-to-toe lace outfits. Vibrant colours with iridescent looks created a luxe appeal. The designer incorporated embellishments and exotic fur on the outfits that exuded royalty. The looks were completed with side-swept hair and pointed-toe shoes.
Fashion got exciting with a futuristic approach mixed with the Goth era of the 60’s created by AF Vandevorst. With an urge for creativity and chicness, garments were carefully structured and draped in accordance to a lean and utterly feminine modern silhouette. A-line strapless dresses were heavily corseted to the waist, accompanied by a pleated skirt and platform lace-up boots. Unstructured gowns with steep halter-necks contained extensive layering, as silk and tulle were richly used to craft the voluminous evening gowns. Straight fit gowns contained a rich fur bodice, followed by a pleated straight-fit skirt. Peplum coats were clasped to the waist with oversized metallic belts and layered furry skirts. Donkey jackets and tailored overcoats were extravagantly crafted from shearling as suede jumpers, matched with skinny patent leather pants, made an absolute style statement. Slouchy cabans were worn with flared pants as garments were made out of faded suede, giving a textured look to the whole ensemble. Short double-breasted jackets were matched with floor length voluptuous skirts, as models were drenched in a dark color palette that included pastels such as black, steel grey, white and dusky lavender.
Barbara Bui’s collection featured an abundance of cozy winter fabrics like leather and exotic fur in neutral tones like black, navy-blue, white and chocolate brown. The designer took daily-wear outfits and gave it a modern-day makeover, giving it an edgy appeal. Leather was seen in thigh-slit maxi skirts, shiny high-waist skirts, structured tops and biker jackets. Exotic fur made its appearance in long ribbed coats, ponchos with leather details. As the collection reached its end, models donned embellished rocker-chic outfits in black. The looks were accessorized with ankle-length leather boots.
Next came in,the American fashion designer, Rick Owens known for his provocative designs. He showcased a collection that involved modern minimalism with a sci-fi inspired futuristic look. Slouchy blouses were paired with loose-fitted skirts as suede coats and weatherproof jumpers were draped to perfection. A lot of attention was paid to the shape and proportion involved I n each and every garment, as gold painted faces and minimalistic makeup matched perfectly with the modern-edgy attires. A lot of paneling could be seen, done on velvet tunics that were matched perfectly with shift skirts and gladiator boots. Also, a lot of sequined fabrics were patch worked onto the laser-cut fabrics as shift dresses were worn under square-cut tunics and extensively tiered coats. A very minimalistic color palette was used to craft the entire collection and some of the pastels included steel grey, smoky black, rust, gilded gold and camel.
Christian Wijnants showcased arange of garments that played with prints! He amalgamated modernity and tradition in this particular collection. The collection opened with a burst of tropical prints in vibrant shades of black, red and dark green. They were featured in dungarees, pencil-skirt, asymmetric skirts, and short dresses. Traditional prints like plaid and windowpane checks were showcased on jumpsuits, deep-V tops and oversized capes. Printed sheer two-piece ensembles added a touch of sensuality. Classic stripes grey and black also made it on the runway. The looks were complemented with leather and suede boots in an assortment of shades.
The day ended withone of the iconic French houses, under the creative leadership of Alber Elbaz. Lanvin showcased a collection that portrayed a certain seductiveness through the finely tailored garments. With extensive cutwork and attention to detail, this collection was inspired by the designer’s heritage Moroccan roots. Wrap-slit skirts were clasped to the waist with silk tassels, as each one was perfectly matched with fitted jackets and sleek blouses. Plunging waistcoats, lined with tweed, were crafted from rich suede and matched feather tiered harem pants and knee-length patent boots. Bohemian dresses were patch worked with lambskin leather as suede gloves and exotic snakeskin booties, made the perfect accessory duo. Gypsy-inspired dresses were emblazoned with eclectic floral prints, as mink overcoats with shawl lapels were worn over fringed dresses tied with crinkled suede belts. Velvet jumpsuits and glitzy capes were appliquéd with sequined florals as tailored jackets were worn over harem pants, accessorized with suede lace-up boots. The French house brought a ‘bling’ affair to the whole collection, as models were drenched in bold pastels like tangerine, camel, burgundy, deep mustard, blood red, off-white, navy and faded brown.
Cédric Charlier’s collection featured garments that were clean, minimalistic and very utilitarian. With traditional clothing given modern touches here and there, the range had an evergreen appeal. An array of colors drenched the garments in peachy pink, green, navy blue and deep wine. Pleats were shown in a variety of styles from an A-line dress with wide pleats at the center with narrow ones on the side to a strapless plunge-neck dress in tones of wine and navy blue. Exotic fur in oversized coats was shown in solid colors of peach and patches of navy blue and dark green. The designer wittily created illusions of a thinner body frame as dark colors were added to the sides of light-colored ensembles. Towards the end of the collection, stripes of varying thicknesses made their way into skirts and short dresses.
Ankle-length boots in varying tones complemented the overall looks. Moving onto Guy Laroche, whose collectioncontained a certain practicality for striking garments that were majorly crafted from rich leather and exotic skins. Following a minimalistic trail of the legendary couturier, models were enveloped in bold pastels of burgundy, navy, black, gilded gold and glitzy silver. Zipper topcoats were accompanied with a shearling collar as plunging dresses and metallic body suits were patch worked with glitzy silver fabrics. Deconstructed turtleneck cardigans were worn with skinny pants and patent peep-toe boots. Biker jackets and textured white micro-minis were crafted from exotic crocodile and matte lambskin leather. Bodies hugging dresses, crafted from faded suede, were accompanied by exaggerated shoulders and corseted hemline as each look was accessorized with patent leather thigh-high boots. Floor-length gowns were appliquéd with embellished sliver embroidery as each outfit contained a sheer metallic trail that was adorned with gold brocade work. Slit skirts and embellished denim pants were worn with metallic sequined tops that were patch worked to perfection.
Yang Li’s collection was inspired by his heritage as there were oriental touches seen in the garments. The showcase began with sharply tailored outerwear in bold tones of red, black and smoke grey. The initial showcase featured coats in varying hemlines both single & double-breasted, an asymmetric leather dress and an iridescent blazer paired with straight-fit pants. As the collection moved on, the silhouettes got relaxed and loose. Silky metallic flared pants, tops and knee-length dresses worn over/under black outfits created a visual contrast. A burst of expression came about when ensembles created from bonding silk and aluminum in shades of steel, camel and Bordeaux emerged on the runway. Gradually towards the end, the silhouettes got softer touches with ensembles in thick silk like the floor length dress with a wide belt worn over it. The collection had a graceful and lyrical tone to it. While the makeup was pale with Marsala lips, the hair was swept back for a clean look.
Black leather lace-ups were seen throughout the collection.Croatian-based, Damir Doma’s Fall collection comprised of an intelligent juxtaposition of rough and refined textures, followed by androgynous garments and proportionate silhouettes. Cashmere cardigans were matched with tapered woolen trousers and strappy patent boots. Shift dresses, crafted from rich tweed, were paired with cropped knitted tops and slouchy harem pants. A lot of stripes and uni-linear patterns were used to define unstructured garments like high-slit dresses and long overcoats. For men, a lot of attention was paid to fine tailoring as slim-fit jackets were worn with fitted trousers and loose duffle coats. Translucent cashmere cardigans were belted to the waist and accompanied by puffed-up trousers and cropped pants. Kimono-inspired coats were worn over sheer winged-tip shirts and boat-neck jumpers. The color palette comprised of bold pastels like chocolate brown, sunflower yellow, off-white, dusky grey, smoky black and burgundy.
Next in the lineup was Dries Van Noten, whosecollection imbibed a clean aesthetic, featuring a burst of colors and artisanal techniques on garments ideal for evening wear. A riot of colors with Earthy tones like khaki, gold, dark brown and copper, cool tones like lilac, peachy pink and pale blue and an abundance of classics like ruby red and navy-blue gave a vibrant appeal to the collection. Floral prints on pencil skirts, tops, ankle-length coats and regular-fit dresses added a classic touch. A dash of bling was added with embellished blue sequins on zipped-up jackets, a striped cardigan and a narrow-fit pencil skirt. An element of opulence was incorporated with shearling coats and stoles with fur trimmings on selective pieces.
The designer effortlessly incorporated many elements together to achieve a rich look. British-based Sharon Wauchob brought about a modern edginess to her contemporary-based AW collection. Paying a lot of attention to exquisite draping and pleating, her garments perfectly catered to the needs of an elegantly sophisticated woman. Structured single-breasted overcoats were matched with flared pants and suede ankle-length boots. Mid-length duffle coats were extravagantly lined with fur as intricately–laced dresses were accompanied with turtleneck collars and chained backpacks. Embroidered sheer blouses came with a uber-feminine bow as each one of them was daintily paired with snakeskin pencil skirts. Leather donkey jackets were worn over dégradé silk dresses and layered tunic numbers. Frilled shirts were elegantly worn with asymmetric velvet skirts, followed by animal-print cabans and glossy tailored jackets. A-line dresses were embroidered and ruffled to perfection, as subtle silhouettes were drenched in pastels of black, white, navy, maroon, chocolate brown and deep lavender.
Moving onto Aganovich, whose AW collection encompassed geometrically structured garments into a bold, yet feminine silhouette. With a color palette limited only to blacks and whites with a dash of steel grey and rust; a fine attention was paid to the craftsmanship of the ‘mannish’ outfits. Unstructured coats in tweed and Mohair were emblazoned with uniform checks and textured patterns. Exaggerated collars and oversized lapels were present in nearly each and every outfit, as corseted waistcoats and slim-fit pants made a perfect match on the runway. A-line topcoats and form-fitting Chesterfields were belted at the waist as each look was accessorized with top hats and suede brogues. Floor-length gowns, with shawl lapels, were worn over draped silk blouses and structured bell-shaped jackets. Puffed-up skirts and buoyant trousers were textured and patterned to perfection as the designers’ design aesthetics could be seen in the well-defined garments.
Then came Each X Other, founded by Jenny Mannerheim and Ilan Delouis, imbibed simplicity and a utilitarian approach when it came to the collection. Keeping minimalism in mind, focus was paid on the garment structure and tailoring. Wintry fabrics like satin, leather and chunky knits were used. A lot of deep V-necks were incorporated in tailored blazers and short dresses in black and blue. From office-wear suits to casual wear outfits like shorts, high-waist leather trousers and thigh-slit skirts, the range offered versatility. The colors were classic winter shades in black, white, grey and navy-blue. Ankle-length leather boots complemented the daily-wear outfits.
Makeup was also kept minimal and hair was swept back. Moving onto, Christine Phung, whose collection comprised of a strict elegance mixed with luxury sportswear. Architecturally structured and fluid, models were drenched in a wide array of pastels ranging from cerulean, lavender, forest green, peacock blue to smoky black and steel grey. Tailored overcoats were paired with tapered trousers and platform sandals as garments were crafted from contemporary as well as digital design aesthetics. Classic bombers were matched with high-slit pleated skirts ads chiffon dresses were intelligently incorporated with printed abstract patterns. Straight-fit tunic dresses were worn under woolen trenched and tweed jackets, as each look was perfectly accessorized with patent leather boots and unstructured bucket bags. Turtleneck cardigans were clasped to the waist and worn elegantly with puffed-up skirts layered into banded silks and crepe satins. Plunging shift dresses, followed by halter-neck jumpsuits were accompanied with corseted A-line dresses and embellished bodices.
Silk blouses were worn with ruffled tulle skirts as sexy V-neck numbers were belted to perfection. Devastée made fabrics the hero of the day as the designer-duo brought about a sense of quirkiness with smiley faces incorporated in their designs. The prints shone through in short dresses, double-breasted blazers, a navy-blue two-piece ensemble, a pencil skirt and a silk jumpsuit. The cuts and the silhouettes were presented in an East-meets-West mannerism. Western pieces like a windowpane check suit and an oversized shawl lapel coat added a classic touch. The colour palette included sober shades like white, navy-blue, black and grey.
The looks were complemented with dark sheer stockings and oxfords. French couturier Pascal Millet, showcased a collection that was an apt combination of refined luxury with elegantly structured garments. Quintessentially feminine, a lot of attention was paid to the cuts and body hugging silhouettes as each outfit focused on exquisite craftsmanship and modern design aesthetics. Double-breasted coats were extravagantly lined with super soft fabrics like fox fur and rich shearling. Slouchy duffle coats were crafted from rich tweed, as each one of them contained exaggerated hemlines and exquisite cuff lets. Embellished ponchos were followed by tailored jumpsuits that were adorned with large silver buttons making each outfit standout from the rest. Chiffon dresses were draped onto the female body as asymmetrical numbers, with unstructured bodices made an absolute style statement. Straight-fit blazers were conically shaped and emblazoned with animal prints and intricate jacquard lace. LBD’s with keyhole necklines were accessorized with thigh-high suede boots and warm furry stoles. Tunic dresses were heavily sequined and embellished to perfection, as plunging lace numbers were appliquéd with dégradé lace fabrications.
The color palette included sober pastels of steel grey, off-white, baby pink, silver, black, navy blue and metallic olive. Anthony Vaccarello’s collection saw models strut down the runway in rocker-chic ensembles dressed in black from head to toe. The collection began with a tailored jacket belted at the waist with a broad belt paired with cigarette pants and ankle-length boots. It was followed by ensembles with leather details and embellished studs. Selected dresses featuring a silver fringe were quirky indeed. Asymmetric outfits gave an edgy statement on the runway. One of the outfits that really stood out was a plunge-neck short dress with star motifs in leather and studs.
Moving onto Anrealage, who presented a collection that was a combination of ‘real’ and ‘unreal’. Making a very bold statement with his uber-cool designs, double-breasted pea coats contained glitzy patch pockets and exaggerated shoulders. Printed asymmetric were pleated and printed to perfection as each model donned the futuristic outfits with metallic pointy pumps. Gingham checks were incorporated onto puffered dresses that were crinkled at the waist and clenched, while reaching the bottom. Quilted jackets were followed by bold-knitted capes as tailored jackets in cashmere and tweed made a fashion runway must-have. Silk dresses with evident polka dots were followed by suede trench coats and V-neck blouses with graphic prints.
A lot of attention was paid to hair and makeup as each model donned a fabricated ‘brain-like’ structure, followed by Goth-inspired makeup and a monochromatic color palette. Anne Sofie Madsen’s eccentric collection that grabbed eyeballs on the runway for its bold statements. While the collection was mostly monochromatic, there were tones of mustard-yellow, wine and camel. There was a Bohemian touch with fringe making its way into skirts and cropped tops. The Asymmetric dress with linear prints created an illusion on the runway. The striped dress with a sheer bust was racy yet highly feminine. The two-piece outfits displayed towards the end had an edgy yet fluidic appeal. Some of the looks were ideal for urban street-style.
Day 1 concluded with Jacquemus,whose collection that focused on relaxed military looks followed by careful attention to drapes and cuts, incorporated on each and every garment. With a color palette comprising of jet black, sunshine yellow, navy blue, white and red; models walked barefooted in relaxed outfits, apt for an ‘out-of-the-box’ wintery season. Bold tapered trousers were accompanied by structured U-shaped dresses that were patch worked with colorful pieces of cloth. Off-shoulder blouses were paired with tapered velvet trousers and banded one-piece bikinis. Turtleneck cardigans were worn over double-breasted overcoats as V-neck tunics and crinkled LBD’s were color-blocked to perfection. Plunging jumpsuits and slouchy topcoats contained large circular rings, making each look unusually different from others. The main standouts from the entire collection were the geometrically shaped laser-cut tunics that were unstructured and incorporated with a ‘wavy’ pattern.
Known for his exquisite couture ensembles, Shantanu Goenka’s presented his varied inspirations through an elaborate exposition of his latest works called Fashioning Fairy Tales.The exclusive exposition, launch evening was held at Kolkata’s finest luxury and fashion destination 85 Lansdowne, saw the 80-year-old mansion transformed into a magical land of fairy tales.