Contributed by – Duhin Ganju

(DAY – 4)

As the Parisian fashion mania continued, Day 4 saw some of the biggest names present in the fashion industry, showcase a rich array of colorful garments that were a true exemplary of fine craftsmanship and heritage design aesthetics. From Issey Miyake’s digitally eclectic prints to Dior’s architecturally structured silhouettes, textured overcoats and feminine dresses were absolute frontrunners, followed by glitzy pastels like light green, purple and black.

The show started with Loewe, under the design direction of British-based Jonathan Anderson, the Spanish house showcased a collection that was edgy, colorful and had a ‘sci-fi’ touch to it. With a trip to the 80’s, feminine silhouettes and loose corsets were set in a bright color palette of mint, lilac, deep blue, steel grey, glitzy red, camel and chocolate. Paneled jackets were paired with wide-legged trousers, as geometric-print cabans were worn over turtleneck cardigans. Flowy shirt dresses were paired with tapered trousers and perfectly matched with leather boots and dapper shades. A lot of leather in the form of, glitzy metallic and glossy patent, was used to craft plunging body suits and straight-fit pleated dresses. Slouchy cap-sleeved tunic tops were worn with abstract-print micro minis and deep V-neck cashmere cardigans were paired with uni-linear hot pants. Funnel-neck jumpers and oversized capes were belted to the waist with laser cut leather belts and knitted jumbo bands. Unstructured handbags were crafted from different fabrics like vinyl, patent leather and exotic crocodile, as knee-length riding boots were an absolute must-want.

Next in the lineup was Chalayan, who showcased a collection that was a fairytale in motion, inspired by the movie, “Murder On The Orient Express”. Drenched in a range of neutrals such as black, beige, dark grey, the designer kept the looks sober with focus paid more on the cuts and silhouettes. Wide pants, leather dungarees, sharply tailored coats and quirky floor-length gowns were some of the major looks showcased on the runway. The designer fused unexplored elements on ordinary outfits, breathing new life into them. The plunge-neck gold mesh dress with metallic strips paired with a pleated grey fabric was one such example to the same. A minimalist approach was incorporated in terms of accessories sparing a few experimental headpieces together. The looks were complemented by black leather boots and Mary Janes.

Issey Miyake’s collection richly amalgamated unconventional creativity techniques with modern-day design aesthetics as three-dimensional patterns and colorful prints were incorporated onto multi-layered fabrics and utterly feminine silhouettes. From textured overcoats to corseted double-breasted jackets, scooping dresses and boat-shaped capes were matched with asymmetrical skirts and flashy patent leather boots. Built-up collar ponchos were laser cut and geometrically textured, each worn with silk trousers and skinny stockings. A lot of abstract and zigzag patterns were emblazoned onto puffed-up dresses and tailored pantsuits. Weatherproof parkas with exaggerated lapels were matched perfectly with patterned trousers and belted A-line skirts. Textured dresses were layered with tulle as oversized bandanas were boldly knitted to perfection. Models were drenched in wide array of bold pastels like lavender, ink, forest green, burgundy, steel grey and smoky black with hints of rouge and tangerine.

Julien David’s collection had a traditional influence as the color palette was sober with neutrals like beige, black, navy blue and a dash of bright shades like cobalt blue and yellow ochre. The collection began with a series of quilted notch lapel coats worn over cigarette pants. The colors soon transitioned to beige coats both single and double-breasted with interesting appliqué work on the lapels. There was a particular fluidic element common throughout the collection. It was also seen in a cashmere zip-up dress worn over leggings and combat boots. There was also a brief military moment on the runway with a quilted double-breasted coat with similar appliqué work on it. Then came along bright tones of blue in fur cardigans, shearling collared coats and a stunning sheer structured dress with appliquéd patterns in bright red and blue. The looks were complemented by dark Bordeaux lips to add to a wintry touch.

Probably one of the most anticipated shows of the day, Christian Dior’s collection was architecturally structured and finely tailored. Under the design leadership of Raf Simons, the down-to-earth-garments were exquisitely streamlined, containing smart feminine silhouettes and modern eclectic graphic prints. The ‘Lucite’ boots presented, as a perfect accessory, by the brand were crafted from glossy fabrics like printed vinyl and patent leather. A-line dresses with embellished collars were accompanied by double-breasted tweed coats and asymmetric woolen skirts. Keeping in mind the proportion and tailoring, cashmere coats were matched with turtleneck blouses and embellished snakeskin skirts. Textured shearling was used to create stunning straight-fit dresses and short duffle jackets, followed by the brand’s iconic coat dresses and jaw-dropping floor-length Chesterfields. Patterned body suits were paired with fur shrug-on topcoats, as strapless silk dresses were daintily wrapped around the female body. With a modern twist, body-hugging jumpsuits and slim-fit tunic dresses were emblazoned with an arty and abstract pattern, as suede waistcoats were patch pocketed to perfection. The house’s iconic Lady Dior handbag was crafted from different leathers ranging from grainy calfskin to exotic crocodile. Models were drenched in a bright color palette that consisted of bold tones like baby pink, off-white, tangerine, light-green, deep maroon, sunshine yellow, mustard and glossy black.

Next in the lineup was Isabel Marant, who showcased a wide array high-waisted garments from white denims, printed pants to trendy black cigarette pants. These were accessorized with belts both sleek and wide. Classic stripes in black and white made their appearance on the runway in a fitted blouse and a knee-length dress. The brand which is recognized for its Boho style saw bands of bohemian print showcased in the beginning of the collection. Towards, the end, the mood shifted towards sheer tops and ultra-short dresses. Like other designers at Day 4, the designer followed a similar color palette of neutrals with dashes of red. The looks were accessorized with leather boots with silver buttons.

Undercover’s collection was infused with modern tailoring and clear-cut minimalistic garments. With utmost precision, models strutted the runway covered in plastic surgery masks and a simple color palette. Oversized turtleneck cardigans and corseted zipper jackets were paired with silk flared pants and banded leather brogues. Pilgrim collared jackets were worn over strapless spaghetti tops and A-line shirt dresses. Puffered bomber jackets were worn over body-hugging peplum blouses and skinny chino pants. Shearling-lined cardigans were matched with thigh-high slit skirts and single-breasted duffle cabans. Silken shawls were lapelled around draped knits, as embellished pea coats were worn with crepe harem pants. With chunky neck pieces dazzling-up each outfit, tailored jackets were worn over plunging sheer gowns trailing the fashion runway. Last but not the least, slouchy weatherproof coats and silk tapered trousers were intricately appliquéd with crystalled-glass pieces, blurring the lines between precision and cutwork, of the timeless looking garments. Models were enveloped in a bold color palette that consisted of rich pastels like burgundy, smoky black, steel grey, camel and cobalt blue.

Moving onto Andrew Gn, whose collection saw a burst of spring in a range of warm wintry fabrics. It began with an outpour of ultra-cozy and chic ensembles in dark neutrals. A shearling lined zip-up dress with tassels and a cape at the rear made its first entrance on the runway. It moved towards floral embroidered jackets with a leather finish and more tassels! A swarm of woolen knits invaded the runway in oversized sweaters and tassel-tipped pencil skirts. Flowy gowns in pale gold, black and gilded gold accentuated the female body. Towards the end, the designer merged funky florals like short dresses and shearling lined coats with quirky color combinations to end the show with a bang! The looks were accessorized with fur-lined leather boots.

John Galliano’s fierce comeback as the Creative Director for the Maison Margiela, proved to be an absolute stunner. Portraying his love for Avant Garde fashion, he showcased a collection that combined highly crafted fantasy with the house’s romantic cultural legacy. Garments were wearable, chic and tattered as models boldly walked the runway wearing a bold makeup look, accompanied by bright orang-colored wigs. Maxi coats were crafted from grainy suede and patent leather as each one was worn over fitted jackets and tapered harem trousers. Plunging blouses contained bow detailing and were paired with short plaid skirts and jazzy velvet overcoats. Floor-length column dresses were crafted from intricate lace and paired with leather-vinyl gloves and well as strappy platform Mary Janes. A-line dresses were belted to perfection and intricately patch worked with floral patterns, as animal fur was extravagantly adorned onto the body-hugging garments. Sheer spaghetti tops were followed by strapless bodices that were corseted to perfection and matched with velvet flared pants. Animal print peplum coats were made out of super soft shearling, worn over silk bikinis and embellished slacks. The color palette included rich pastels of camel, jet black, burgundy, orange and mustard.

Under theCreative Direction of Alexander Wang, Balenciaga showcased a collection where he incorporated his elements to produce winter outfits that were cozy yet modern. Keen attention to detail in terms of embellishments were showcased on metallic ensembles. The structure and silhouette of some of the garments were complex and futuristic. There was an abundance of tulip-skirts on the runway in varying hemlines. There was a slight hint of classics as Windowpane checks in shades of black and white made it on the runway. The colour palette was industrial with silver, smoke-grey and black. The looks were accessorized with fur-lined pointed-toe shoes. This particular collection exuded power with a modern-luxe appeal.

Day 4 ended with Japanese-based Yohji Yahamoto, known for his Avant Garde clothing, showcasing a collection that included oversized silhouettes in black and featured extensively draped garments in various textures. With strongly constructed concept, the designer had paid a lot of attention to the cuts and patterns present in the garments. Long shirt dresses and floor-length draped gowns were followed by Kimono-inspired tailored jackets and asymmetric pencil skirts. Winged-tip shirts were matched with flared woolen trousers as silk shawls were draped like a dress over the utterly feminine body. Deep V-neck gowns comprised of intricate lacework as mandarin- collared military jackets were paired with tapered trousers and grainy leather lace-up boots. One of the absolute standouts of the entire show were the architecturally structured outfits that contained a highly corseted bodice and a farthingale-like voluminous skirt that included embellished paneling and elaborate meshwork. The color palette included dark shades like brown, vermilion, deep purple, lilac and forest green.

Contributed by – Shefali Jauhar

(DAY – 5)

Day 5witnessed Parisian craftsmanship at its best on the fashion runway. From Junya Watanabe’s origami-appliquéd artwork to Vivienne Westwood’s androgyny-tailored beauties, it was a day filled with jaw-dropping design aesthetics and cultural heritage influences. Colors like black, white and gold were the frontrunners, followed by tailored garments and abstract pop-art designs.

The day began withthe Japanese designer, known for creating ‘techno couture’, Junya Watanabe showcased a collection that involved unusually structured clothes made with modern and technical fabrics. Portraying a very ‘Avant-Gardish’ appeal, models were drenched in bold pastels like black, white, ruby red and chocolate brown with hints of deep blue and aubergine. Converting 2-D shapes into 3-D, models walked the runway wearing lantern-shaped skirts and exaggerated shoulders. A lot of pleats and geometrical laser cutwork was involved in the beautifully structured garments, as bold headgears made an absolute style statement. Crispy white shirts were paired with knee-length A-line skirts, followed by silk bell-shaped tunics and zippered capes. A lot of layering was done on form-fitting silhouettes that were crafted from superfine leather, lightweight silk and dainty satin. Buoyant coats were belted to perfection as they were worn under sheer blouses and studded trousers. Oversized scarves and geometrically uniform capes had a lot of network involved, as Pilgrim-collared pea coats were matched with lacy stockings and pointy patent brogues.

Up next came a collectionshowcased by Haider Ackerman that displayed modern elegance by playing around form and texture. The color palette consisted of classic neutrals like black and white with dashes of blue and red. It saw traditional fabrics like tweed in checkered shades on the runway. It showed an array of sharply tailored coats that were belted at the waist and worn over matching skinny pants. Some of the looks were also accessorized with polka-dot silk scarves. Leather in the form of jackets, skin-tight pants and asymmetric skirts added a modern edge to the collection. Animal prints of leopard were shown in structured tops and jackets. The overall look was accessorized with leather boots both knee and ankle-length.

Moving on, Tsumori Chisato,the Japanese designer showed her  love for comic-cartoony characters and modern pop art aesthetics through a bold AW collection. Hand drawn illustrations and comic book-characters were imprinted onto boat-shaped tunic dresses and belted double-breasted topcoats. Turtleneck cardigans were color-blocked to perfection and high-waist skirts that had evident patch pockets. U-shaped LBD’s contained puffed-up hemlines as each look was accessorized with leather pumps and thigh-high patent boots. There was a perfect cohesion between knitted cardigans and black separates, followed by quilted leather bombers and corseted Chesterfields. A lot of glitzy patchwork was involved in the creation of loose-fitted dresses, accompanied by daring plunges bright uni-linear stripes. Shimmery metallic skirts were appliquéd with graphic-printed silk cloth as fur duffle coats and lambskin gloves, made an apt accessory duo. The color palette included bright pastels of crimson, sunshine yellow, faded pink, jet-black and gilded gold.

Mugler, under the Creative Direction of David Koma drifted one into a space odyssey of some sort. There were touches of futuristic elements that made the collection all the more exciting. As the theme suggested, the designer incorporated shades of white, black, blues including teal and cobalt. Equal focus was not only paid on the little details but also on the angular silhouettes as well. From high-gloss body hugging dresses to starry ankle-length wonders, there was lustrous element on the runway. There was also a point in the collection where the designer incorporated simple but solid colors like black and white to pay focus on the silhouette. Metallic details shown on impeccable white skirts and dresses gave an understated appeal all together. Pointed-toe leather boots perfectly completed all of Koma’s elegant looks.

Then came along, Véronique Leroy who showcased a collection that was a perfect metamorphosis of volume, structure and refinement. Garments were finely tailored and crafted from rich fabrics like tweed, double crepe, Mohair, soft silk and patent vinyl. Single-breasted cabans and voluminous overcoats were worn over crinkled shirts and lambskin slim-fit pants. Mesh dresses and A-lined LBD’s were clasped to the waist with bold metallic belts, accompanied by circular neckpieces and cowboy boots.  A lot of patterned knits were incorporated onto high-slit dresses and buttoned jumpsuits. Short military jackets contained exaggerated notched lapels as each one was worn over corseted blouses and tapered woolen trousers. Weatherproof parkas contained the designer’s signature patch pockets as pleated harem pants were structured onto the feminine silhouette. Models were drenched in a sober color palette of tangerine, off-white, camel, black and dusty blue.

One of the most anticipated shows of the day was Elie Saab’s. The designer known to entrance women with his fairytale collections set foot to darker fantasies. The color palette was darker than usual with olive green, black, teal, crimson red and smoke grey making their appearance in solid shades on the runway. Military inspirations were seen in double-breasted coats, olive green outfits like jumpsuits, separates with accessories like leather boots and gloves. Signature elements of the designer soon appeared on the runway with floral appliqué work and prints on sheer-chiffon gowns. There was flamboyance on the runway when exotic fur and leather pieces covered selected models from head to toe. Then came along rich and mesmerizing embellished dresses and gowns with elegant floral designs in shades of teal, olive green, maroon and black. Meanwhile, Smokey-eyes and naturally kept hair made the looks appear as elegant could be.

The highly acclaimed British designer, Vivienne Westwood,  known for bringing modern punk into the fashion mainstream, showcased a collection that included loosely tailored garments that were contradicted with bright plaid patterns and Boho-fit dresses. With golden confetti cascading from above, models were drenched in bold pastels of copper, steel grey, tangerine, burgundy, mustard and black. Embellished blouses were matched with tapered harem pants, worn over tailored jackets that were incorporated with intricate embroidery as well as monochromatic checks. Plaid waistcoats were matched with silk skirts and slim-fit pants, all imprinted with bright floral artworks. Silk jumpsuits were worn under textured cashmere cardigans and floor sweeping knitted robes. Spaghetti tops and high-waisted jeans were followed by unstructured gowns with heavily corseted bodices, done in off- shoulders and daring scoop necks. For a rich androgyny appeal, garments included belted leather coats and shearling lined zipper jackets, followed by macramé –lace skirts and velvet pantsuits.

The collection showcased by Commes des Garcons was rather highly experimental, bold yet expressive. Ribbons and lace played an important role in this particular collection. There was a lot of intertwining and over-layering of fabrics. It began with a white oversized bulbous outfit that had ribbons all around it. The face was masked in black lace that seemed to have invisibly merged with her hair. The color palette displayed in this avant-garde collection was in classic neutrals of black, white and cream. The silhouettes were complex as the exaggerated curves concealed the natural body form. The looks were dramatic as anti-fit ensembles were worn over skin-tight leggings.

Moving ahead, Acne Studios under the design direction of Jonny Johansson, showcased a collection that comprised a fine juxtaposition of structured fabrics with boldly tailored garments. Double-breasted Chesterfields were accompanied by exaggerated hemlines as well as oversized lapels, incorporated with multi-colored plaid and geometric checks. Body-hugging topcoats were patch worked to perfection as plunging suede dresses were accessorized with nubuck and leather box-bags. Leather jackets and tailored jerseys were worn over cropped tweed blouses checkered flared trousers. Latex patch pocketed pants and ruffled silk blouses were worn with slouchy hats and woolen duffle coats. Models were enveloped in a rich color palette comprising of earthy pastels like rust, mustard, ink, copper dusty pink and steel grey.

Nina Rici’s collection under the Creative Direction of Guillaume Henry showcased women that were graceful yet powerful all at the same time. The color palette adopted by this designer was sober with sparks of metallic red, midnight blue and silver. The designer took on traditional winter wear and incorporated his own layer of cool. There was an element of boho-quirk as tassels made their way into a notched knee-length coat, a top and a brown dress. A sheer lace further heightened femininity. Opulent fur and chunky knits in varying wintry shades cozied up the runway. Heavily embellished dresses glamorized the collection. The overall looks were complemented with pointed-toe shoes.

Day 5 at Paris Fashion Week ended with Olympia Le Tan’s royal era of the 60’s where silhouettes became loose and a lot of focus was paid to the ethereally feminine garments. With bold usage of gauzy fabrics like tulle, sheer, silk and leather; models were drenched in a color palette consisting of baby pink, velvety black, deep olive, rich burgundy, royal blue and crystal white. A-line tulle dresses were paired with silk stocking and belted over coats, containing shawl lapels. U-shaped blouses were accompanied by frilled skirts and Ruff-collared sheer shirts, as ballerina pumps and top hats became the perfect accessory duo. Gold-buttoned pea coats were worn over straight-fitted polka dot dresses, accompanied by voluminous puffed-up skirts. Scooping blouses with intricate lacework were matched with skinny slacks and matte leather cutout skirts. Graphic-printed tunic dresses were accompanied by winged-tip sheer shirts and woolen embroidered skirts. Velvet coats were extravagantly lined with super soft shearling as body-hugging dresses clasped to the waist with textured suede belts.

Neha Agarwal presented a curtain raiser of her Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2015 collection. Known for her colorfully gutsy designs, Taapsi Pannu donned the inspiring collection ‘From Russia, with Love’ that tells you a tale of two cultures.

Russian inspired silhouettes and motifs fused with Indian fabrics and techniques are the crux of Neha Agarwal’s this year’s collection. Usage of intricate hand-embroidered appliqués on georgette, ahimsa, dupion, pure mal, tussar and pattu silk on Russian inspired artwork makes this array of designs one of a kind.

The collection reminisces form-fitting fashion of early 1900s Russia. Eye-catch on dresses and bamboo denim jackets with cape collars, adorned with cross-stitch detailing and floral embroidery; circular dresses with hand block printed motifs and denim crop tops with printed Russian dolls and flared jumpsuits in pure silk with a denim bodice and embroidered scalloped sleeves complete this resplendent collection.

 

For the upcoming Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2015, Shilpa Reddy will be showcasing surreal ‘Moon Lit Sand’, collection.

The malkha and khadi silk foundation of Shilpa’s creation holds an uncanny resemblance to the exquisite shades of the sands lit up by the radiant moon. Her designs exude the subtle and elegant hues of the sands, the night sky and the magical aura of the moon.