Contributed by – Duhin Ganju

(DAY – 8)

With creative talent at its best, Day 8 of the Parisian drama kick started with a roar as some of the biggest names in the fashion industry showcased a rich array of colorful, yet glitzy garments on the fashion runway. From Chanel’s elaborate ‘Café fiestas’ to Valentino’s black-checkered beauties, it was a true exemplary of high craftsmanship combined with a strong heritage aesthetic. With black and gold as the as the preferred color choice, a lot of tailoring and Gingham checks could be seen incorporated on figure-defining silhouettes.

Probably one of the most anticipated shows of the entire day, the House of Chanel presented a collection that aptly needed no explanation. Thanks to the genius of Karl Lagerfeld, the show was housed in the iconic Grand Palais Museum, with an extravagant setup that was based on a Parisian High Café theme. Titled “Brasserie Gabrielle”, models were drenched in a rich color palette that comprised of bold pastels like burgundy, deep red, blue, mustard, baby pink and gold with timeless classics like black and white. From jaunty knitted cardigans to embroidered wash proof parkas, a lot of quilting could be seen on leather bomber jackets as well as textured A-line coat dresses. Bouclé suits and embroidered coats were paired with wrap-up skirts and for the very first time- the iconic ‘Coco’ shoes, crafted from lambskin in tones of beige and black. Midi-length flared dresses were accessorized with chinks of pearl necklaces and matched perfectly with cropped jeans and skinny trouser pants. Pilgrim collared dresses, containing evident patch pockets, were frilled to perfection as each garment contained a corseted bodice that was accompanied by a frilled unstructured skirt. Blanket ponchos and fur cabans were richly lined with shearling, as long pencil skirts were bow-tied to the waist and appliquéd with a geometric-tile pattern. A lot of tulle was used to drape intricately layered dresses that contained a sheer outline, followed by a rich gold bodice. The sure shot accessory trendsetters ranged from Chanel hairpins embossed with a CC logo to chained box bags that were embellished to perfection.

Next in the lineup was AGNÈS B whose collection was subtle, utilitarian yet chic as models donned ensembles that were drenched in the shades of sober neutrals along with dashes of red, tangerine, bright yellow and blue. The silhouettes showcased by the designer were relaxed while the outfits seemed comfy. Prints in various styles stood out in the collection. Gingham checks featured on belted tops, single-breasted jackets, sharply tailored suits, matching separates and knee-length coats. A tartan check coat with a notched lapel also made a brief appearance on the runway. Photographic visuals of nature in cap-sleeved regular-fit dresses were showcased. Abstract prints in bright shades paired with jet-black outfits made the colors stand out. The looks were accessorized with various styles of hats along with boots made of suede and leather.

With a trip to the 70’s, Vanessa Seward brought about a ‘corporate elegance’ to her AW collection as garments were beautifully tailored and structured according to an uber-cool feminine silhouette. Woolen jackets with notched lapels were worn over knitted turtleneck cardigans and slim-fit selvedge denim trousers. Long overcoats, crafted from rich suede, were extravagantly lined in rich shearling as each of them was accessorized with thigh-high leather cowboy boots as well as patent ballerina sandals. Metallic shirt-blouses were matched with high-waist slit skirts, as bell shaped tunic LBD’s were ruffled to perfection. Crepe jumpsuits were emblazoned with emblazoned with a graphic print and keyhole body-hugging maxis contained an embellished hemline, followed by a heavily flared skirt. Sheer blouses contained a lace-embroidered bodice as floor-length column gowns were clasped to the waist with a silk ribbon-like belt. The color palette included dark pastels like emerald, gilded gold, intense red, deep mustard, dusty brown and jet black.

Moving onto Valentin Yudashkin, whose collection oozed glamour as models were dressed in rich and opulent garments ranging from red carpet gowns to metallic coats. The highly lustrous range with rich colors gave a feel of the Seventies’ but the grandness of details reminded us of the Baroque era. The color palette consisted of metallic tones of space blue, red, gilded gold and electric-green along with sober shades of wine, black, forest green, black and shades of grey. The collection began with traditional outerwear items in dark shades like the wine double-breasted jacket, a tailored jackets with floral applique-work and a leather coat-dress worn over stockings to name a few. Soft velvet featured in V-neck tops, a cap-sleeved hooded dress and an off-shoulder dress. The gilded-gold embellished dress with baroque applique details, flared high-waist metallic pants and the lace dress with gold sequins gradually drifted the mood towards grandeur. Metallic parka jackets with matching shearling hoods definitely added the element of modern glamour on the runway. The collection ended with heavily embellished floor-length gowns with Baroque details that ended the glitzy affair with a bang.

Valentino’s collection was entitled “An Interpretation of Dreams”, as the legendary Italian house showcased garments that were inspired by the seventies poetic era in the cultural city of Rome. Under the creative leadership of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccoli, each outfit were carefully structured and crafted in rich tones of black, white, intense red, subtle beige, gold and deep blue. Models walked the black-carpeted runway with a rich array of fairytale-like garments that ranged from form-fitting A-line dresses to tailored checkered jackets. A lot of geometrical checks and monochromatic patterns were printed onto slouchy cashmere cardigans as well as u-shaped column dresses. Built-up tunic numbers were appliquéd with intricate macramé lace and accompanied with a chic Peter Pan collar. From plunging necklines to daring V-necks, sheer column gowns were intricately embroidered to perfection as each look was accessorized with patent leather boots and glitzy platform sandals. Unstructured overcoats were patch worked with colorful hand-dyed fur, as each one was worn over heavily embroidered shirt dresses as well as floor-length maxi gowns. A lot of tulle was used to create translucent bodices of evening gowns that were richly done in exquisite brocade and corseted hems. Fluid cape-like tunics were ruffled and pleated to perfection as a lot of leather was used to create carefully layered numbers and cap-sleeved floor-sweeping statement gowns.

Next in the lineup was, Junko Shimada whose show setup a completely different visual set-up all together! The collections were rather devoid of models donning Shimada’s ensembles and instead were hung on mannequins from a ceiling rail. The Autumn/Winter’2015 collection was inspired by the Irish coast and the rugged appeal of the fishermen at sea. The color palette incorporated neutrals like shades of blue, black, white, cream and grey. A range of garments like chunky cable-knit sweaters, double-breasted coats, pleated skirts and regular-fit trousers went perfectly in tune with the theme. Suspenders were used to accessorize regular-fit pants and skirts.Little details like the brass-colored buttons on the double-breasted navy coats made the outfits stand out.

Dutch-based Iris Van Herpen’s AW collection was all about creating couture-like tailored garments that extremely contradicted between beauty and regeneration. Expressing her aesthetics through carefully structured silhouettes, a very feminine appeal was radiated through the statement-like garments that were enveloped in a color palette of steel grey, black, rouge, copper and gilded gold. Sheer corseted blouses were paired with textured skirts, as form-fitting lace jackets were matched with body-hugging skirts sequined to perfection. Cap-sleeved two-piece numbers were heavily embellished and paired with suede boots, as ruffled halter-neck LBD’s were worn under shearling cabans and fur topcoats. High-waisted pants were paired with corseted bikini-like bodices as velvet jumpsuits and slim-fit pencil dresses clasped the models’ waists with oversized leather belts. A-line tunic numbers were accompanied by daring plunges as floral patterns were imprinted onto the carefully tailored outfits. One of the major standout of the entire show were the silk cropped tops that contained exaggerated bodices with uni-linear pleats, followed by strapless figure-defining dresses paired with intricate mesh worked platform sandals.

Shiatzy Chen’s collection was flamboyant and girly as it began with a series of garments in tones of black and pink which featured on outfits like fur-lined coats, a lace and leather outfit with floral details and the tailored coat with a mandarin-collar worn over leather pants. Metallic tones of pink soon made an elegant yet edgy statement on the runway as silk coats, a crop-jacket with fur details and a pleated A-line dress soon emerged. There was a burst of dull-orange as seen on knee-length dresses, matching separates and on A-line skirts. Soon there was a swirl of beautiful bright colours with floral-print splattered all over the matching crop-jacket and A-line skirt combination, the fur lined coat-dress and fur sleeved dress. The designer then brought about highly modern yet feminine looks women dressed in black and shearling to accompany the garments. The collection ended with a winter wonderland in white as models donned heavily fur-lined outfits including some selective embellished pieces seen on structured coats, knee-length dresses, short dresses and A-line skirts.

Next in the lineup was Paul and Joe, who showcased a collection that was spontaneously elegant and intensely colorful. Named after the designer’s two sons, garments had a ‘vintage-luxe’ appeal, followed by a fresh, vibrant and cosmopolitan approach towards tailored fashion. Structured evening jackets were worn over sheer blouses and tapered trousers, lace-collared cardigans and layered micro mini skirts. A lot of plaid and geometric checks were embossed onto the structured garments that included dapper pieces like double-breasted Chesterfields and frilled crepe dresses. Gingham checks were emblazoned onto fluid wrap-around tunics, as shearling waistcoats were worn over velvet blouses and belted silk trouser pants. Boho floor-sweeping gowns were accompanied by daring plunges, as winged-tip collar shirts were matched with form-fitting silk hot pants and leather lace-ups. Tunic dresses contained a loose-fitted bodice, followed by an extensively layered and ruffled silk skirt. Cashmere cardigans were hand-embroidered to perfection, as velvet tuxedos and strapless red-carpet gowns became instant must-haves. Models were drenched in a wide array of colors that ranged from dark shades like black, chocolate brown and dusty grey to lighter tones of blood red, beige, olive and steel blue.

Day 8 concluded with Alexander McQueen, who captured the beauty of life moments away from decay on the runway. That moment when a rose is on the verge of decay, when the petals turn floppy, soft and crinkled, is, says Sarah Burton a beautiful thing. The dark-themed collection was showcased in a limited range of colors such as black, red, Bordeaux, white and cream. The ambience created by the looks of powdered models with distinct hairstyles seemed to have belonged to the 18^th Century Victorian era. McQueen always had historic reflections when it came to fashion and this was one of those collections. Feminine and romantic florals were seen on outfits like the floor length sheer gown with feathered collars and the bold black sheer dress with prints of roses. Burton created magnificent textural forms as presented in the rouge and light pink skirts with layered petals of organza. The looks literally resembled roses on the runway. Dark edgy pieces were showcased in black and Bordeaux leather that had a certain gothic appeal.

Since her first showing at LFW in 2013, Karishma has built up a steady fan following who love her bright tones paired with earthy hues, unique layering and cuts.

For the LFW Summer Resort “2015, Karishma Jamwal presents a collection titled “Between The Black & White”, a modern, contemporary line that captures the definitiveness of vintage metal with the free flowing nature of fabric and textured embroideries.

Block blues, greens and peaches can be seen paired with blacks and whites as they create sheer poetry with the structured geometry of monochromes and the waterfall of colours.  In keeping with the design aesthetics of the label, silhouettes are once again loosely structured with a dreamy drape effect.

This season sees Karishma creating interesting combinations of skirts draped with trousers to form lowers, combined with layered light weight summery jackets, one piece skirt dresses and draped palazzo dresses. Subtle fabric detailing with metal embroidery and vintage metal belts and bags complete the look.

Contributed by – Shefali jauhar

(DAY – 7)

With simple minimalism and a Parisian chicness, Day 7 of the fashion extravaganza kick started as designers showcased a rich array of garments that were a perfect amalgamation of design aesthetics and the brand’s heritage craftsmanship. From Stella McCartney’s ‘masculine-meets-feminine’ garments to Hèrmes’ sophisticated tailored beauties, a uniform balance was created between texture and silhouettes of the ethereally ladylike garments. Warm pastels like almond and burgundy were the frontrunners, as each one was incorporated onto asymmetric dresses and structured overcoats.

The day began with Stella McCartney who showcased a collection that boasted of a certain manliness amalgamated with a subtle feminine touch. Known for creating minimalistically fluid garments, models were enveloped in a spectrum of colors that included bold pastels like deep blue, forest green, off-white, camel, velvety black, rust and smoky grey. A-lined structured overcoats were belted to perfection, followed by bold-knitted flared dresses and off-shoulder tunic numbers. Strapless jumpsuits with velvet-like waistlines were crinkled and paired with leather platform boots. Sensual flare pants were paired with corseted scooping blouses as plunging tailored jackets were matched with high-slit wrap-around skirts. Off-shoulder jumpsuits were patch worked with embellished metallic and rich tweed fabrics, as straight-fit column dresses were appliquéd with intricate macramé lace. Extravagant fur coats were accompanied by oversized notched lapels, as peplum jackets were worn with woolen tapered trousers. A lot of brocade work and gilded gold was brushed onto form-fitting hemlines present on U-shaped dresses and unstructured strapless numbers. With absolute finesse and a ‘luxe-sporty’aesthetic, the main standouts from the collection were turtleneck ribbed cardigans that were contradicted with finely tailored silk trousers.

The collection showcased by Sacai had a couture aesthetic but with an urban appeal. It featured masculine looks with exaggerated shoulders, angular cuts and panniers to enhance the overall volume. The colour scheme went along the sober season with neutrals along with a dash of bright colours like red, yellow, cobalt blue and green. The designer took basic everyday-wear items and made them standout with the cuts and silhouette. While some pieces came in an array of designs, simple designs with solid colours made a bolder statement on the runway.  It began with a series of utilitarian black coats in a variety of styles which also included shearling linnings. Abstract prints in sheer-chiffon dresses were worn under scarves with tassels. Then came along a series of patch-work leather parkas worn over pleated skirts and leather pants. Minimalistic designs in solid colours soon took over. The collection ended with opulent fur lined coats paired with leather skin-tights and platform leather boots.

The heritage French luxury house, Leonard Paris under the creative leadership of Raffaele Boriello, showcased a collection that was a perfect marriage between innovative know-how and heritage craftsmanship. Feminine dresses were emblazoned with rich orchid prints, hand-painted at the studio, as a lot of attention was paid on draping, sewing and stitching of theses rich fabrications. Structured topcoats were worn over corseted peplum blouses and asymmetrical skirts, as banded leather sandals made the perfect footwear match. Oversized tunic capes and shrugged cardigans were appliquéd with individual pieces of Swarovski embellishments, incorporating spangle and pleats onto the form-fitting garments. Unstructured jumpsuits were clasped to the waist with bold knitted belts, as textured duffle coats were worn over short pea coats and body-hugging micro minis. Spaghetti tops and halter-neck maxi dresses trailed the fashion runway in exquisite pleats and floral abstract patterns. A-lined dresses and sheer jumpsuits were followed by velvet waistcoats worn over crepe evening gowns, containing evident patch pockets. Quilted coats dresses contained puffed-up hemlines as plunging silk gowns and deep V-neck numbers were apt for any red-carpet event. Models were drenched in a bold color palette that consisted of pastels such as white, silver, smoked lavender, aqua-green and jet-black.

The acclaimed designer, Giambattista Vali showcased a more relaxed aesthetic with towering women donning ensembles in lean and clean silhouettes. The collection was inspired by works of numerous artists with elements such as tantric, magic and kaleidoscopes mentioned backstage. It also went down retro roots into the Seventies era with florals and sequins. A wide range of prints like florals, gingham, tribal patterns were showcased on high-waist pants, winged-tipped jackets and long-coats, short dresses and skirts. The colour palette consisted of white, black, cream, red, baby pink and mustard yellow. Warm and wintry fur made a brief appearance on the runway in an ethereal white coat and a top. Metallic embellishments in eye-popping shades left a glam effect. The looks were accessorized with leather lace-up sandals and hair tucked gently.

Moving forward, Veronique Branquinho’s collection focused on creation of clothes for a modern woman, who enjoyed subtle feminity and an effortless understated chic look.  With a color palette centering towards a few bold pastels like black, ochre, olive and sea green; garments contained a certain fluidity that was put to work on a working day-to-day female. Collared jumpsuits and A-line single-breasted coats were crafted from matte leather like lambskin, as military trenches and flowy capes made a perfect duo. Tailored velvet jackets were worn with tapered trousers and a lot of fitted coats could be seen crafted from rich fabrics like embellished tweed and super soft Mohair. A lot of sheer blouses with angel sleeves were accompanied by bow detailing as banded blouses were matched with long mermaid skirts and strappy patent pumps. Leather tunics with a sweetheart neckline were paired with voluminous tapered skirts, imprinted with English plaid and uni-linear checkered details. Structured Chesterfields were worn over knitted turtleneck cardigans and fishtail skirts that contained a corseted hemline.

Moving on, the collection showcased by Lutz Huelle saw a range of neutrals with a burst of metallic tones and the trending color of the moment, tangerine. It began on a glitzy note as pencil-skirts, regular-fit dresses and tops. The silhouettes were loose and relaxed as models donned oversized capes and over-coats. Asymmetric lengths were seen in skirts and dresses in the shades of tangerine, black, silver and white. Leather gloves and knee-high boots completed the look. Overall, the looks were relaxed with naturally loose mane.

HÈRMES, under the design direction of newly appointed Vanhee Cybulski, showcased a collection that reflected the brand’s heritage craftsmanship as well as the designer’s design aesthetics. With an extensive use of leather, models were drenched in a wide array of bold pastels like ink, blood red, deep blue, sunshine yellow, deep burgundy, black and subtle beige. Leather jackets with winged-tip collars were matched with buttoned-down wrap-up skirts and suede thigh-high boots. Classic bombers were worn over cashmere cardigans and high-waist patent skinny pants, as structured silk dresses with daring boat necks were followed by corseted suede coats tapered midi skirts. Red striped double-faced cashmere blanket cashmere coats were quilted under layers as rich shearling jackets were clasped to the waists with grainy leather belts. Unstructured cabans with a built-up collar were worn with fitted leather trousers and long patch pocketed jackets, containing diamond-shaped quilts. Scooping blouses, crafted from fine silk, were textured to perfection and paired with long flared skirts and v-slit suede boots. With a very apt ‘work-to-wear’ design approach, models carried saddle bags crafted from different leathers ranging from grainy calfskin to exotic ostrich.

The collection by Sonia Rykiel stood for the modern woman who like classics. The collection mainly featured neutrals with a dash of reds, green and blue. Classic stripes of varying thicknesses were featured on cardigans and shearling coats. Polka dots in classic shades of black and white dresses. A modern street vibe was incorporated in leather tight-fit pants. Floral applique-work and lace featured on fitted short dresses. Traditional outfits like notched single-breasted jackets, double-breasted coats and regular-fit pants to match. The overall looks were complemented with leather boots and Mary Janes.

The British-Columbian designer, Estaban Cortazar’s Fall collection was a fusion of the designer’s Latin heritage with a distinctly modern and feminine approach towards dressing. With a very cosmopolitan approach, garments were enveloped in a color palette that included bold pastels like tangerine, bright yellow, rouge, faded olive, off-white and smoky black. Cap sleeved jumpsuits with harem pants were accompanied by exaggerated peplum blouses and sheer high-waisted skirts. Strapless leather dresses were tiered with geometric layers and accompanied with keyhole necklines, as wrap-up midi dresses were buttoned-down to perfection and accessorized with metallic strappy sandals. Halter-neck blouses were crafted from crepe satin and matched with leather-tasseled skirts and double-breasted notched topcoats. Boat-neck dresses were fitted at the waist and transformed into a dreamy A-line skirt, as each one was luxuriously lined with super soft shearling. Asymmetrical blouses and cropped capes were matched with tapered woolen trouser pants as tailored tuxedo jackets were worn over white crinkled shirts. Sheer gowns were crinkled to perfection and worn under bell-shaped suede poncho wraps, as spaghetti column dresses were incorporated with hundreds of layered tassels.

The day ended with the heritage luxury label, Saint Laurent under the reins of Heidi Slimane dominated the runway with a rocker-chic attitude. The color palette was an obvious black-and-metallic affair. Leather-weather was in the air as models donned skin-tight pants (some of them ripped), textured miniskirts including asymmetric lengths and biker jackets. The collection had a lustrous appeal with glossy leather jackets, long coats and micro-mini slit dress. Laddered stockings complemented the looks. Leather boots in varying lengths featured on the runway. Red lips and heavily-lined dark eyes made a bold statement on the runway.