October 2011 - Page 12 of 14

Spring summer 2012 WIFW is on the verge of experiencing a kaleidoscopic rotation while intending to juxtapose various enchanting forms in one piece producing a soothing view to the eye- the Kaleido ‘scape’. Kaleido ‘scape’ is the theme for Kavita Bharita’s new collection.

The range is a blend of retrieved Indian traditional practices to Persian patterns, from Russian style of the prior Muscovite era to the multi-hued apparel of North African tribal clan. A varying range of jumpsuits tiered- skirts, draped tunics, balloon skirts, and long dresses contribute to Kavita’s Kaleido ‘scape’. Chiffon and silk is incorporated with lycra to enhance the look.

Tribal ikat has worked as an inspiration for the designer which is very clearly executed in the creation of special ties and the usage of dye technique. Ombre dyeing is implemented with modern tropical and pulsating prints as well as patchwork prints of multi- color and multi-size is used to bring out the urban look. Hues like Formica blue, porcelain green, misty jade, rose pinks, imperial purple and deep ultramarine come together to give a distinct look. The silhouettes and old-school craftsmanship is transmuted to bring the urban woman out.

Chunky metallic embroidery which reminds of antique neckpieces and remixed embellishments is carried elegantly. Various traditional materials belonging to the interiors of the country will be seen in Kavita’s handcrafted couture.

The prediction which articulates about the end of the world by 2012 evokes Charu Parashar to such an extent that the designer will be illustrating ‘Hope’ and ‘Joy’ in connotation to the prediction in her SS’12 collection for Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week.

‘Rainbow’ which is indicated in the Bible as a sign of promise by the God that he will defend every living creation of his from all kind of desolation is the title of Charu Parashar’s new lineup. The collection is a demonstration of the free spirited look of the 20’s and 50’s. Flowy chiffons, georgettes, tulle, satin comprises to create the designer’s array. Ikat prints sported with cut blocking effect and comprehensive use of stitching is implemented. Satin tape giving a mesh upshot is blended with thorough stitching lines.

Drop waisted dresses accessorized with straw hats, bandanas and multihued bangles along with jeweled and kolapuri chappals accentuated with golden woven fabric and lace completes Charu’s piece.

Nida Mahmood is one such Indian designer whom you expectedly hope for loads of colors, flavours and drama. Living her vivid reputation, Nida presents ‘Great Indian Bohemian Tamasha’ – a display of colorful, irreverent Indian folk music and dance theatre on the WIFW SS’12 ramp.

Inspired from the Great Indian Tamasha, especially the puppet theatre of Rajasthan, the designer interprets it through prints which take their inspiration from famous inkblot test used for perception mapping and psycho analysis. The inkblot test gets adapted and rendered through prints and embroidery with a psychedelic reproduction using forms and colors that range from vibrant hues like acid green, fuschia, orange, turquoise and rich indigo blue, bright yellow to muted beige, biscuit, grey and even monochromes.

Fabrics range from soft mercerized voils to twills and Mulburry silk to taffetas. Some crepe and georgettes used in the collection oozes the feminine connection of the collection.

Who can forget the clean, structured and draped ensembles James came up, along with those Sheila-esque moves, last season at Wills India Fashion Week! Following suit, James Ferreira is all set to ooze that refreshing vibe again on the ramp with his latest collection where he experiments with Khadi.

For Spring Summer 2012, James is somehow inspired with the new nationalistic fervor unleashed by Anna Hazare. Also, concocting the mood board is the understated elegance of the Gandhi family and the charismatic chicness of Lady Edwina Mountbatten. All in all the symbol of Indian independence, eco friendliness and rural empowerment, Khadi stars in James’s latest collection.

Specially, hand woven into hot new colors like orange, lime green, fuchsia and mauve, Khadi has been color blocked with satin – the weave printed onto Italian Georgette and subtly embroidered with Swarovski, pita and new applique techniques. The collection will also see khadi being sandwiched between organza to construct ghagras with a twist. Wispy organza confections are combined with pita work sarees and the churidars and dhoti have been transformed into the sexiest jumpsuits.

While going through the collection preview of Mumbai based designer Malini Ramani, it comes out loud and clear that the upcoming fashion fair is going to be one sartorially enchanting affair – apart from the great theatre.

In her signature Malini Ramani style, the designer has designed a fabulous Spring Summer 2012 collection that incorporates all the elements which has made her one covetable name of Indian fashion over the years. Thus, the name ‘Maximum Malini’ pops up.

One delightful range of ensembles, the collection features splashy, sexy and colourful array of her ever-popular jumpsuits to long gypsy styled dresses, fringed kaftans and shirtdresses. Flavoring them is a lot of fun elements concocting a perfect summery confection.

Further, the collection uses pop-colours, block prints, mirror work, fringes, studs, sequins, lehariya and appliqué work. The fabrics are wide and varied. And, these include silk lycra, jersey, crochet, lace, chiffon and soft cotton.

Now, when Spring Summer 2012 edition of Wills India Fashion Week is merely a couple of days away, the participant designer Nikasha Tawadey presents her interpretation of the season through a collection titled, ‘Tumi’.

This collection pays tribute to love and spring and blossoms and new beginnings with loose and supple lines emblematic of a nostalgic femininity. Pastels hues with flashes of summery palette of rani pink, gajjari, gulabi and santri adorn little frills, ethereal flounces and breezy blouses with delicate archived chintz prints in fabrics like khadi silk, silk, chiffon, cotton gauze and mulmul.

Head pieces inspired from the rural landscape of Kutch and dangling accessories or latkans from the garments further complete the look.

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Mocha TreeHuggers presents the ‘Wildflower & Butterfly Trail’ with BNHS

The fashion week from all four big capitals are almost showcased. There were big names trying to continue their tradition and also were very personal and artistic collections like Daniela Gregis, Costume National, Byblos, Gareth Pugh etc. But over all if we look at the Spring Summer 2012, its all about brightness, colorfulness, summer prints, transparency and purity.

Silhouette: Next summer one thing for sure there will be jackets may it be flowy, asymmetric, long, constructed or transparent but you can’t miss it. Almost every designer has interpreted it in different way as material, color and feel.

Phillip Lim have bit constructed and flat jacket, Chalayan continued from his last collection long with deep neck and lapel, Armani with his tailored & reflection on water theme, Gaultier jakets were highlight to the body fitted dresses.

Apart from few very luxurious names like Armani, Gucci, Ackerman, Celine, bifurcation is not the substance to talk about much. They can only be worn as a corporate work or business travel occasions. As the material used were very sheen and delicate, the looks create an office environment.

And the rest next summer will be dresses and skirts, which has a wide range of interpretation. But mostly it is very soft, delicate, flowy, and transparent at some occasion. The neck line varies according to occasion so does the length. But asymmetric is a major factor in the sleeves and alternate side in the front. The Lanvin, CK and Ackerman dress are good example for transparent, delicate n flowy touch.

Color and Print: The most dominating color to my eye is white it used as a subject of purity, clean, minimal and futuristic. Many bright summer colors are dyed in materials like crape, chiffon, silk and organza so transparency is a major factor. Also knits and lycra are the modern fabrics so no one did forget it. Leather was used by many designers like costume national, diesel, hermes, maison martin margiela. Very soft abstract and floral prints were used but eye catching is serpentine prints in few occation.

Accessories: Not all the designer used hand filled with jewelry or bags. But it was a very sensational and emotional image for every individual designer. Exotic and harness leather small bags, soft supple leather big bags like from bottega veneta, Armani. Hermes continued with its traditional harness leather bag. But to break the rhythm there was Furla to use plastic transparent bags and Frankie Morello to use vibrant color big knap sack bags.