The fashion week that just concluded opens up the food for trends and styles that will lead the bias for the approaching Autumn/Winter. Fashionfad.in puts WIFW A/W ’10/11 under the fashion microscope and scrutinizes each influence and design detail with similarities and differences to skillfully design the trend manual. And as the winds whisper this winter there is geometrical invasion in prints and construction or rather deconstruction. The erogenous areas get covered with no cleavage being revealed but yes the back epitomizes the sensual feel as it gets all the attention with deep diving cowls and crystal and embroidery detailing.
The geometric influence that was seen in Manish Arora’s Spring Summer collection catches as wild fire for the autumn winter in geometric lines forming three dimensional planes, circle appliqués, polygons fitting into grids and even the silhouettes get boxier or trapeze. In Aastha Bahl’s ensemble the bright colourful lines and polygons of patch work are set on a dark brown base of full sleeves top and belted loose pants fitted at the ankle. Charu Parashar’s flower sweeping fitted gown exudes glamour with geometric and illusionary prints sans embellishments. The perfect small trapeze dress by Pankaj and Nidhi draws geometrical planes through cording and interlacing. And Rahul Mishra sketches the metamorphosis in grey lines over white below knee length dress.
Asymmetric hemlines and deconstructed front and back panels were visible through all shows in subtle or loud outbursts. The hemline never remained traceable as sometimes the back panel went longer than the front or the overlapping caused the desired shifting of plane, and a couple of times the hemline also experienced cowls or huge upturned drapes. Gaurav Gupta’s red and black checks focused layering and powered shoulders with puff sleeves and an over cover satin sheath draped as one shoulder dress in grey. Jaya Rathore made asymmetrical cowls in red dress with absolutely haphazard hemline. Prashant Verma juxtaposes his look in padded shoulders and frayed layered edges in his ochre jacket over black sheer dress. With Ridzyn interpreting cowls hood and deconstructed folds on the hemline.
Style zeitgeist also crowns charcoal black as the new black and tinges of purple add the royal streak. The other style directions lays hands on one shoulder dresses, ankle length trench coats in coarse or sheer fabric. Thin leather belts over dresses, sarees, skirts, trousers are actually omnipresent. An extensive and exclusive dose of block prints, leheria and traditional motifs carve the big picture as embroideries take a back seat. Sonam Dubbal’s block printed dress with a little tie-up belt in gold just below the waist compliments with a long quilted coat. Tarun Tahiliani raises the temperature with purple drape dress knotted at the one shoulder. Abraham and Thakore styles belt over straight fit kurta and pajma. And red being the accent colour of the season, Shantanu and Nikhil drape a hooded dress.
The pants go structured high waist or relax in dhoti cowls. Ankita and Anjana Bhargav style double buttoned high waist trouser with grey cowl top and the trousers go completely relaxed in Namarata Joshipura’s dull gold evening outfit. The dhoti pants contrasts drapes with Nandita Basu’s velvet green and Siddhartha Tytler’s lurex blue.
The casuals and evening wear get very crispy and bounce with a high degree of styling. Masaba Gupta’s deep dyed colours paint the angrakha kurtas over polka dotted dhoti pants. Ritu Beri has rugged basic blue denim matched with an army inspired bejeweled cropped jacket. The overlay of prints and piping for the pleasant winter sun surfaces in Vineet Bahl’s creation. And a deconstructed jacket over tattered top and fitted pants pronounces the fashion infused winters by Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna.
