Monthly Archives: October 2017

Shyma Shetty and Pranav Misra show at AIFW SS18

Review

The HUEMN SS18 collection is influenced by the socio-economic and political ambience of our times. Fashion is informed by our emotional response to the environment,as we walk steadily forward to a future that we choose; a future of our making.

In this constantly connected world, we are exposed to stories of unimaginable horror, and also those of unconditional love. There is crime and suffering and then there are heroes worth celebrating. This paradox is the crux of the dystopian world we live in and today, the words, thoughts and actions of the individual affect real change, if she so chooses.

The ethos of the collection is essentially about sensitizing the desensitized. The line comprises of multidimensional clothing with pattern and texture play to translate a fearless and modern aesthetic.Day dresses, statement shirts, and luxe athleisure make up the collection with a strong interjection of our vertical of upcycled denim.

Abhi Singh show at AIFW SS18

Review

I got a barcode all over me; scan me for the price of beauty for I am expensive as people think of me. Scan me for the price of freedom – I am not behind the bars, I am just on the other side.

The inspiration for the collection has been gathered from the barcodes which have been meticulously manipulated to give entire collection a splendid look. The complex and the maze like designs present one with fusion of digital symbols and clothing for being and living free.

Bhanuni By Jyoti show at AIFW SS18

Review

IKEBANA is an apparel medley by label BHANUNI BY JYOTI, inspired by ancient Japanese art of flower arrangement. The collection has emerged from love and need of the artist to create beautiful forms.

Imagine walking through a multicolored natural carpet adorned with flowers. Detonation of colors, alluring templates of florets and verges tone in to produce this exquisite medley. A composition of embroidered and digital tapestry to bedeck the modern women consisted of feminine Dresses, delicate, flowy silhouettes, chic shift dresses in chanderi, chiffon satin, georgette conceived a floral story.

Ekta & Ruchira show at AIFW SS18

Review

A “VEIN” to a man is what a plant is to an eco-system. Ekru’s Spring/Summer’2018 collection takes its inspiration from the life within the brute yet beautifully charged eco-system and tries to raise awareness to the crisis of global warming.

The plant life themed designs speak about the effects of climate change. The dried foliage of falling leaves, the intricate detail seen in the concentric rings of a tree trunk or flowers burnt by the harsh sun rays, all set an inspiration for the collection. These visual impressions were used for embroideries, prints combining organic qualities and detailed textures in an earthy colour palette of ivory, beige sap green and mustard yellow etc.

The silhouettes are supple and airy in lightweight handloom cottons. Supple drapery, wide leg trousers, pleated bottoms, wrap back to knots and tie-ups to accentuate the waist line and increase comfort. A loose fit light embroidered jacket in matka khadi was used for layering. Decorative tassel details are given for free spirited but chic attitude. Majority of the separates are made in handloom cotton keeping in mind the organic feel of the collection. Vision of the concept flourish over the fabric through digitally transformed florals. Screen print is used to depict “falling leaves”. Traditional katha stitch is combined with french knot and dori work to create a visual of a “dead tree”. Petal and leaves are appliquéd on garments. Bartik print on silk chanderi and digital print on a silk muslin is done to achieve a soft feel.

Pallavi Dhyani show at AIFW SS18

Review

The collection is the result of the designers’ vision speculation about the internal strength and independence of a woman through the prism of the modern architecture.

Paying a tribute to the ideas of formalism, the collection plays by the rules of present day. The fundamental idea of comfort and functionality is the cornerstone of “SS-18” and THREE in general.

Teresa Laisom and Utsav Pradhan show at AIFW SS18

Review

Spring 2018 is about nostalgia. In this case – reminiscing about past love affairs or may be just a fling explores Teresa Liasom And Utsav Pradhan. The base for the collection – the checks, the stripes, the polkas – have all been tweaked to adhere to the munkee.see.munkee.doo woman.

The checks and stripes have been woven in irregular patterns – the width of the lines vary in the stripes and wider checks are woven on top of graph checks. The polkas have been given the cut-out and applique treatment. These graphics are done in handloom cottons, viscose lurex and cotton spandex in neutral palette of white, navy, khaki and black broken up with shots of red, beige and sky blue.

Archana Rao show at AIFW SS18

Review

Archana Rao’s the girl who lost things collection, is inspired by a poem “The girl that lost things” by George MacDonald. The poem captures the journey of a girl, starting off as raw, reckless and materialistic, who soon goes through some life changing losses, making her discover things she didn’t know about herself.

An effervescence of soothing muted tones, quirky elements and a clean modern silhouette. The wide range of ensembles is intricately embroidered, and coupled with leather and mesh detailing. The looks are as much for the elegant in their sensibility as the adventurous in spirit of fuss free generation– crisp white shirts with a twist, pleated and printed shift dresses, cut out and ruffled blouses, a range of skirts and a lot of emphasis on sheer make a strong statement that sets each piece apart.

Making her come a full circle, from reckless to pure and divine. This collection captures the growth of the character. Bits of the poem have been translated into print and embroideries through out the collection. The color story starts off with pristine white and ends with a strong midnight blue in various surface techniques that build in collage style placement, leather cutwork along with beadwork and self texture.

Medha Khosla show at AIFW SS18

Review

Anomaly by Medha has created a wardrobe for, women with strong,versatile and feminine silhouette that they can wear anywhere and in many different ways.With a focus on light weight tailoring and finishing details such as contrast binding. Piping and top stitching, each and every silhouette in the collection is easy to wear, stylish, relaxed and suitable for work, travel and leisure.Accessories like tote bags have been crafted in handloom cotton linen to complement the collect.

Using a classic color palette of primary red and blue the designer have develop a range of cotton and linen fabric with weavers like Sally Holkar’s Women Weave in Maheshwar to develop a commercially visible cotton fabric in bold blue and red strip, while Bihar and Bengal have woven beautiful cotton linen fabric in plain weaves and stripes .

Pallavi Singhee show at AIFW SS18

Review

The spirit of the “verb “woman lives on Natural , very effortless, and quite joyful. As the designer describes it its not nostalgic, but something that makes you smile.

With girl from Ipanema in the backdrop , the line started with delicate sheer lace handloom ( day into night) dress . Embroidered hand-woven capes romanced with floral stipe linings , covered delicate spaghetti sheer dresses . Layered kaftans dresses with plunge neckline and bohemian embroidery took centre stage with a rush of colour in reds and Pinks .

Soon they gave way to embroidered floral paid dresses, flirting with floral prints dipped in paint blobs and varid dots. Plunge necklines laced with Chantilly lingerie peeping from inside gave it the desired feminine sexy appeal .

The line progressed in to monotones of black and white dresses with bold motif embroidery and lots of tassel tie ups. Sheer Dresses with shimmer and the right about of bright threadwork made for the perfect “Bohemian Chic”.

Payal Pratap show at AIFW SS18

Review

The muse is a carefree spirit, a nature lover, independent, a gentle non-conformist without being a rebel. She creates her own dreamscape. She takes time to reflect on life. Is quietly questioning, thoughtful; always internalising. Has her own definitive mind-space but she is open and constantly evolving. She seeks her energy from the things she surrounds herself with. Is conscious of the effect of her choices and lives responsibly.

Her colour palette for summer is a fresh field of flowers, petal pink, indigo blue, sunshine yellow and muted ivory. Vibrant, fragrant, clean and youthful. The mood is botanical, organic and natural. The silhouettes are comfortable and gives a lived-in feel blending the unexpected together and carry it off without fuss. Her look is not about conspicuous consumption or sign-boarding.

Fabric choices this season comprise handloom cotton khadi and handloom linens. Handwoven stripes, checks and borders with selvedge details have been combined with botanical prints. Set within the backdrop of a tea stained ramp dotted with terrariums, the collection plays with asymmetric hemlines, gathered maxi dresses, loose A line coats and jackets, summer dresses. The collection is accessorised with handmade leather colour -blocked sandals and water droplet ear pieces. Playful appliques and hand embroidered motifs, crochet and bead detailing lend a crafted look to the ensembles.