by –  Mehak Batra

“The Chanderi Charm”

Amazon Fashion week S/ S ’17 in association with Maybelline presented its opening show with an unmatchable spark and elegance. ‘The road to Chanderi’ was an amalgamation of various designers and their interpretation of the nation’s finest silk- Chanderi. As a tribute to our heritage, this year’s theme was decided keeping handlooms in mind.

The set-up of the show had a background of various Indian heritage sites on a slide-show while the Indian classical music and poems kept up with the mood and feel. Anita Dongre’s ‘Grassroot’ was a dreamy collection of free-flowing silhouettes and clean-cut overalls. Indian motifs and patchwork made a huge comeback, while huge trends like off-shoulders and sneakers remained a staple occurrence throughout the show. Next up was Gaurav J Mitra and his collection called ‘Akaaru’ and Yogesh Chaudhary’s ‘Surendri’ which combined traditional gota work and pleats in a sophisticated manner. The show then broke in a harmony by a lady classical singer who stole many hearts by her mesmerizing performance. ‘Ka.Sha’ by Karishma and Shahani Khan was a beautiful collection celebrating revival of mirror-work and patch-work. The mixing and matching of the silk with the modern tassel was refreshing to the eyes. The colours bottle green and beige remained their signature throughout. The show ended with Raw Mango’s earth-toned sarees and simplistic designs which was a treat to any minimalist out there. The traditional gold border defined the structured silhouette of many sarees. The showstopper, Aditi Rao Hydari bedazzled the stage with a black and gold lehenga choli and looked as ethereal as ever.

The show was a treat to the eyes when it came to fresh designs from established designers. The stage and the set-up however lacked creativity. It was a humble celebration of our country’s heritage and culture and how it will always find ways for revival.

by –  Mehak Batra

‘Rise and shine’

The hemlines were shorter and the bling was back at the finale of Day 1 as Mr. Francesco from ITA presented a wide range of designs on the Indian platform. Italy being the partner country oozed glam onto the stage. Sophisticated urban and chic, this collection was a clean-cut way to win hearts.

In front of a beautiful geometric backdrop, the show started with a serene track to soothe ears as the center stage models were lighted upon to showcase shapely silhouettes. The straight-cut shift dresses had modern art printed in a minimalistic manner. White, black and gold being the key colors in the show defined the long velvet coats, fur jackets and asymmetrical skirts. Metallic wire accessories like ear cuffs and rings maintained the metal finish in each outfit. Pleated A-line dresses and skirts brought out some romance while the boxy-bags with clean lines balanced the whole look. Various quirky accessories like a mirror bag or the peacock printed umbrella added an extra something to the collection. While riffles and bell-sleeves dominated the womenswear, menswear was a gallant man’s affair. The metallic theme was maintained in the latter, with structured suits and waistcoats adorned with self-print and stripes alike. The makeup was minimal. Hair was half crimped in the middle and pulled back to give a 3D look. The show ended with an Italian track sang in an Indian way while the last lineup was taking place.

The Italians presented a wide range of products for the Indian buyers to choose from. The simple yet shapely cuts and metallic finish designs stole a few too many head turns.

The last two days of the five-day showing of AIFWSS17 , will witness young talent rub shoulders with fashion czars through ‘First Cut’, ‘Accessory’ and the grand ‘Men in Fashion’ showcasing, which will set a new precedent. The idea behind this segmentization is to be able to nurture the myriad aspects of design and integrate it under one umbrella, says Mr. Sunil Sethi, President FDCI.

We began the ‘Accessory’ show and ‘Men in Fashion’ show in the AW’16 season and the ‘First Cut’ show last year, to provide young designers a platform to carry forward the legacy. This season, I am delighted that these three shows will be adding more value to the grandeur with the selected torchbearers-

ACCESSORY:

WHATEVER by Abhishek Kankaria & Shrruti Tapuria

The brand is known for crafting accessories that are created according to changing seasons, moods and times of the day. The collection will assert aesthetically intended formal accessories around the theme of “cocktail” where edgy bags designed by Abhishek while eccentric jewellery designed by Shrruti will be presented.

MINE OF DESGIN by Ambar Pariddi Sahai

The “Mother to Daughter” collection, revisits old treasures and highlights the grandeur of jewels richly encrusted with ghunghroos, jali work, vintage coins, gemstones, and engravings of mythological symbols on the asharfies, vintage gold coins daughters inherit from their mothers.

FELIX BENDISH by Felix Bendish

The edgy collection ‘Forbidden fruit’ is an assortment of accessories in hand-crafted nickel-free metal and fabric embroideries for the truly discerning. If the serpent symbolises the creative life force, the forbidden fruit is the ultimate provocative creation. This potent motif not only personifies the designer’s passion for the creative process, but also complements his own personal vision and fashion forecast for 2017.

MEN IN FASHION: 

Cubano by Dhruv Vaish

​​The signature style includes classic cuts and timeless, customised styling for exclusive men’s wear. The collection uses different aspects of its cultural diverseness and brings it together to become Cuban classics.

Facon by Pawan Sachdeva

The collection has a distinct look for style-conscious men, who are aware of the trends but do not rely on them. The collection is designed for the man, who demands and appreciates finely detailed garments that are both unique and luxurious. The conscientious workmanship is visible through the collection.

Avant Mood by Sahil Aneja

The line is inspired by today’s youth which comprises the modern man, who has evolved and stepped out of the comfort zone into the broad, fusion-led and dynamic international fashion world. The collection is refreshing and chic, focusing on clothes that are appealing to the eye.

FIRST CUT: 

ANIKET by Aniket Satam

The designer will present his collection “Grey Gardens”, where all-American summer classics are revisited with a contemporary blend of athletic romanticism. Panoply of patterns from dandy pinstripes and cheery gingham to the ditsy florals, nurture the essence of this offering. Easy separates in a fresh palette of periwinkle blue, milky white, poppy red, daffodil and buttercup yellow transmogrify every look into a delectable must-have for the vibrant summer months.

ANOMALY by Medha Khosla

The collection titled ‘Modern Traveller’ embraces modern, feminine and functional silhouettes, carefully designed for work and travel. Crafted in natural, breathable fabrics such as linen, cotton and silk, superior finishing details and tailoring techniques are used to create a transitional wardrobe based on simplicity, function and versatility.

BIAS by Mridu Mehra and Shruti Bhardwaj

The collection “Unknown Remedy”, is made for the rebels with a cause and non-conformists. Abandoning traditional concepts, the collection comprises fluid looks, with an unconventional take on urban street wear. Ideas of the subconscious mind are conveyed through abstract expressionism and translated in an unbound language, using fabric reinvention and manipulation techniques.

GUAPA by Reby J Kumar

The collection is all about layering with easy shapes, summer hues and eclectic colour equations, effortlessly combined. Silhouettes within the collection are relaxed, floaty and bear an influence from the 1920s. The designer plays with a pop of colours offset against plainer hues.

MOGACHEA by Tania Fadte

The collection ‘Journey of a humble dot’ was inspired by her two-year-old daughter’s recent obsession with polka dots. Everything in this collection is natural, right from GOT certified organic cotton, hand-dyed fabrics in natural indigo and manjistha. Everything used is biodegradable, and in sync with nature, employing age-old techniques— hand block printing, hand-loom weaving and natural dyeing processes throughout the collection.

Sought after Designer Payal Singhal known for her unique prints, sartorial cuts and creative collaborations announces yet another innovation with the launch of her first digital magazine – titled PS Diary this October. An exclusive fashion guide by Payal Singhal which will cover a wide spectrum of everything from fashion to trends and celebrity style.

This one-of a kind e-magazine will focus on latest looks, in depth articles on trends, engaging personality quizzes curated by experts, advisory from stylist across the country and a fashion guide by the designer herself.

“The world of contemporary Indian wear is still an evolving one. I often encounter women who are excited to wear a stylish outfit, but sometimes find themselves struggling for inspiration to make these unconventional looks their own. And therein was born the idea for this magazine—to make the transition of a fashion label from the runway to your wardrobes a more seamless one. This is a project of passion that I have been working on for a while now.” says designer Payal Singhal.