October 2016 - Page 8 of 12

pics by – Utkarsh Malviya

Reviews by – Vanshika Garg

“FOLK FLAIRE”

The designers took inspiration from the folklore which is full of mystical and fantastical elements. This inspiration was seen being translated in the collection put forth by the designers. They did full justice to their inspiration as everyone present got transcended in the age full of fables and chronicles.

The collection showed the fusion of the traditional with the current style, transitioning the conventional world into the contemporary. The collection oozed the quintessential free spirited bohemian vibes with the rustic vintage mood. One can’t fail to notice that even this season the designer didn’t miss the use of their signature blend of hand woven textiles like chambray ,hand woven denim , mulberry silk , sheer chandery to add a hint of sensualness in the most tasteful manner and khadi silk. The fabrics that were used were very light weight keeping the mood of the season in mind. The colour palette that the designer chose fully contributed to her folklore mood as it ranged from ocean blue, muted indigo, chrome, canary yellow, olive , poppy red , dusty orange. The clothes seemed so comfortable and free flowing that anyone would feel at ease wearing them. The collection comprised of free flowing ankle length maxi, pleated skirts, off-shoulder blouses, wide legged pants, jogger pants, asymmetrical reversible jackets, bomber jackets and boxy jackets to impart a stylish edge to the look.

The metallic platform shoes completed the whole look and made it look even more contemporary. And thus it can be said that the collection took after the folklore with the flair of modern touch. The collection presented can be tagged global and cosmopolitan retaining its Indian soul.

pics by – Utkarsh Malviya

Reviews by – Mehak Batra

‘Of our roots’

Pratap’s AIFWSS ’17 show called ‘Twist in my Sobriety’ was a conceptually stimulating show with a wide variety of Indian textiles, motifs and prints. Elements like bamboo and jute also found recognition in this one.

The stage was a designed beautifully as bamboo sticks stood tall on the edges of the ramp giving it a rural feel. A series of soft Indian classical music tracks calmed the audience as the show started off in a peaceful way. The makeup was minimal with a maroon lipstick adorning the faces and the hair was pulled back in a clean bun. Patchwork and crochet being the driving force of the whole collection, were experimented well with. Metal work hand embroideries were used to highlight the pieces wherein floral motifs merged with modern graphics made the collection breathable and young. Colours like teal, ivory and sandalwood defined the free-flowing silhouettes. A revival of the ‘dhoti pant’ was witnessed on the stage as variants of it hung loose on the models’ bodies. Floor-sweeping maxi dresses and skirts swayed away and peplum shaped angrakhas covered the top half. Ruffles and bell sleeves went well with the flowy bottoms. Accessories like jute and embroidered leather bags kept the collection grounded. Interesting brown leather flats and brogues gave the collection a sophisticated look. Hue floral patterns were seen on flowy jumpsuits forming a dainty appeal.

Payal Pratap has done it right. The strong connection of her collection to the roots of Indian heritage and history has shaped up a beautiful experience.

pics by – Utkarsh Malviya

Reviews by – Vanshika Garg

The stage appeared to be very glammed up as long stripes of off-white linen plus cotton were hanging loose at the stage entry with the contrasting black reflective runway path. The spotlight at the entry point made sure to make the entry look extravagant and the outfits stand out.

Such ambience and slow instrumental music created a very surreal mood. The collection was dominated by cotton and linen. All throughout the collection earthy hues like muted greys, off-whites and dusky beige were used. Saris draped in the same fashion with different blouses seemed an essential part of the collection. Saris were coupled with crew neck loose bodice. Apart from the draped sari was gaucho pants paired with bolero jackets, A-line dresses, dhotis paired with the duster jackets and last but not the least dungarees were presented in a new fashion. Dutch braids with fringes in front as a hairdo gave a very interesting twist to the whole look with the minimalistic makeup with just a peach lip shade. The layering was subtly incorporated to add that extra definition to the whole range. The hemlines were let loose and were given a very undone uncouth appearance. As the show proceeded there was a shift in the mood as the tempo increased and we were presented with more dark tones of grey.

Anti-fits never looked so feminine and elegant before. The designer found out a way to do so in most innovative manner.

pics by – Utkarsh Malviya

Reviews by – Vanshika Garg

“PINGALA”

The collection took inspiration from the acceptance of the chaotic and the hyper social and political reality. As this acceptance brings forth the joyous celebration which is translated in the outfits presented at his show.

The show begun with the celebratory tribal music which made everyone stand on their toes. The models wore jute hats with the rounded-wired ends. The outfits looked much undone and loosely tied. The collection essentially comprised of metallic tones like copper and silver along with the spectrum of green, brown, yellow, red, white and black. The textiles used included hand-woven fabrics, in fine blends of silk, cotton, linen and zari. Monofilament silks and metallic yarns have been used to give a very celebratory feel to the whole outfit. The collection had a hint of androgyny because of the boxy shoulders and the loose, undefined silhouettes. The bolero jackets and the flat front pants were made of thick corduroy fabric. The outfits were paired with the ankle wrap footwear which were shared by both men and women during the show. The models had blue metallic circles around the eyes which gave a very tribal visage to the whole look. Stripes were the dominant pattern in almost all the outfits. Menswear collection was also presented which had similar look to the womenswear. Some garments appeared unisex which further added to the androgynous element of the collection.

The collection was very versatile and interesting use of stripes added a chic edge to the look.

pics by – Utkarsh Malviya

Reviews by – Mehak Batra

‘Gandhi’s Paradise’

This dynamic duo’s ‘Khadi’ was an ethereal show showcasing a wide range of Khadi garments stitched to perfection. It was rendition of one of the oldest textile of the subcontinent mixed with the modern twist of contemporary cuts and shapes.

The show started off with upbeat tantric music that caught the fancy of every one sitting. The hair of the models was tied in loose braids and the makeup was minimal with a hint of rouge on the cheeks.

The eye-catching Indian calligraphy and font printed on sarees, blouses, midi-length dresses and skirts played a key role in keeping the collection as per the theme of the week- ‘Indian meets modern’. Gold and white’s perfect combination seemed to be the theme of the collection. Other colours in the collection included burnt orange, vermillion red, browns and greys. The classic kurta and pyjama was revamped with modern structures involving flared sleeves, straight cut pants and collared blouses. A balance in t outfit was maintained keeping either the top of the bottom fitted and well-shaped. Floral jackets and angrakhas adorned the models’ bodies giving the free-flowing fabric a clean cut form. Midi-length hemlines were big in this show, being presented in various ways as skirts and dresses. Another staple seen during the show was buttoned angrakha, sticking to traditional design and aesthetic.

It was a celebration of the human hand, as Khadi by A and T revolutionised the use of the homespun fabric through contemporary ways. Presenting its festive values, gold was given the front seat as it shined all along.

pics by – Utkarsh Malviya

Reviews by – Vanshika Garg

The show started with the slideshow of Sona Mohapatra giving her take on our Indian tradition and how they have incarnated themselves in the form of fabrics and the prints which we wear. She described her inspiration and journey to materialise the Indian craft of Kotpad weaving. This has been an essential part of Odisha heritage which was well reflected in the collection that Virtues presented.

“Organic and eco-friendly” which was an essential element came forward from the ideologies of the designers to the collection that they presented. The runway was filled with rich terracotta reds, maroons, deep browns and blacks. One can’t not notice how off –whites and beige were used to create the contrast. The combinations were made in the most interesting fashion as layered dresses were paired with capes, front open jackets with ankle length trouser, saree draped with layered dresses and pleated panelled dress with pleated cape. The colour combinations helped balancing out the layering in the garments which also highlighted the intricate detailing like pleating, quilting, chord work, mirror work, applique and hand embroidery. The dominant fabric was kotpad and to embrace this heritage, Sona Mohapatra ended the show with the duo of husband and wife who have carried their ancestral legacy of Kotpad weaving. All the credit goes to them for taking this art beyond the borders of Odisha.

The show ended on the most positive note as it felt like everyone came together for a celebration of this art. The star of the show Sona Mohapatra came forth singing a high tempo folk song which made the perfect closure.

by – Vanshika Garg

Love Generation is a collection for youth and so was the energy, it was very upbeat while the colour palette was wild and extensive ranging from pop of orange, electric blue, hot pink ,crimson red , daffodil yellow to name a few.

They presented very wearable and go-to looks, especially for the teenagers and college going students. The collection comprised of an off-shoulder tops which are a hype this season paired with white shorts and white shoes adding a lacy hemline to the shorts.

Fabric used was georgette in straight fit skirts along came tone-on-tone outfits, monochromatic outfits, dropped waist dresses and see through skirts by adding fringes, laces and tassels which looked really appealing.

“I want to thank Roberto Cavalli and I wish them the best in their future endeavors,” said Dundas announcing his exit from the luxury brand house.

The Spring/Summer 2017 collection, presented during Milan Fashion Week in September, was the last the designer did.”As Roberto Cavalli goes through a period of transformation, the design team will carry on and the appointment of a new creative director will be made in due course,” said chief executive Gian Giacomo Ferraris.

Dundas was appointed to the Florence-based company in March 2015 and seen as a good fit for his love of rock-sexy designs and penchant for animal prints.

A major nine-month exhibition of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s work within the world of haute couture fashion is to go on display from May 2017 at the Victoria & Albert in London.

“Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion” will showcase around 100 garments and 20 hats, as well as sketches, photographs, fabric samples, x-rays, toiles and film.

Balenciaga’s exhibition will be the first of its kind in the UK, and is timed to occur during the 100th anniversary of the designer’s first fashion house, in San Sebastian, Spain, as well as the 80th anniversary of his 1937 Paris salon.

Many of the V&A’s Balenciaga pieces have not been shown to the public before, the museum said in its announcement.

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Monthly Archives: October 2016

Shruti Sancheti show at AIFWSS17

Payal Pratap show at AIFWSS17

Anavila Misra show at AIFWSS17

Gaurav Jai Gupta show at AIFWSS17

Abraham & Thakore show at AIFWSS17

Viral, Ashish & Vikrant show at AIFWSS17

Love Generation #AIFWSS17

Peter Dundas Exits Roberto Cavalli

V&A announces Balenciaga exhibit for 2017