Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar

(DAY – 1)

As the London fashion mania kick started with some quirk and chic aura, Day 1 witnessed some of the very famous names in British fashion who showcased a breathtaking array of wintery garments that will be a sure shot must-have for the forthcoming season. From Bora Aksu’s feminine seduction to PPQ’s Goth-inspired creations, this day saw a more relaxed version of RTW garments with plaid and black as the frontrunners.

J. JS Lee, Korean-based designer showcased a collection that was sleek and androgynous in every way possible. As models were enveloped in a minimalistic color palette of black, white, baby pink and olive; one could not help notice the sheer simplicity portrayed in every garment. Turtle necked knitted cashmere cardigans were worn with shearling-lined jackets and pleated straight-fit dresses were accessorized with patent brogues. With a faux-fringe wig, models walked in plunging blouses worn under slim-fit trousers. Tweed coats and slouchy pantsuits were extravagantly lined with fur to give the whole look a very ‘modern-luxe’ appeal.

Next on the move was, Manuel Facchini, the Italian-origin designer presented a collection with women looking sleek, sharp and edgy in his ensembles. The collection was an intermingling of the gothic aesthetic matched with the modern sporty appeal. Set in the classic monochrome palate of black and white, the designer designed outfits with focus on edgy ensembles that reflected a futuristic outlook. The outfits incorporated geometric prints, gothic prints and symmetrical lines that often gave a visual illusion. From fitted dresses below the knee, short baby doll-dresses, textured leather jackets paired with printed-pants and pleated skirts, the designer offered a variety of hemlines.

Eudon Choi’s red color-blocking striped backdrop, the Korean-based British designer presented a collection that as wearable, modern yet edgy in every way possible. Double-breasted leather jackets were accessorized with blanket-fringed scarves and oversized weatherproof jackets were worn beneath form-fitting flared pants. High-slit V-neck cardigans were buttoned-down to perfection and worn over body conscious jumpsuits with subtle patchwork. Also, a lot of metallic leather was used to craft color blocked garments that included A-lined one-piece dresses and broad U-necked body suits. Lastly, the heritage jackets had been adorned with Oriental-based floral prints as the whole collection centered around subtle pastels of gold, steel grey, ombré, navy blue and khaki.

Moving on,Wizard of Oz inspired Shrimps’ collection; the designer had an extravaganza of glitter and faux-fur on the runway with sculptures covered with blue glitter. Apart from the shades like terracotta and emerald green that had the touch of the 1970s’ era, diamante buttons and pointed-toe boots further accentuated the vintage look. Apart from the classic plaid print, the designer also incorporated her signature ‘face’ prints onto her coats and cardigans. The collection mainly comprised of pleated plaid skirts, faux-fur coats and collars with matching fur-lined shoes.

Next was Bora Aksu whose collection had a distinct signature, seductively romantic; each garment was full of intrigue and elegance. Leather ponchos with bold knits could be seen worn with Peter Pan-collared shirts and wrap-up skirts. Keyhole one-pieced dresses were belted and flared to the waist and intricately textured beauties followed this. A lot of lacework and cutwork could be seen done on monochromatic numbers with puffed-up shoulders and a lot of tulle was used to define an utterly feminine silhouette. With the locks parted on one side and suede boots worn as the perfect accessory, models were drenched in a subtle color palette that included soft pastels like almond, pink, ink, lavender, ochre and smoky black.

Next was, Daks whose collection showcased bold and powerful looks in a limited array of colors like red, black, white and red. Diverse range of looks depicted modern power-dressing on the runway from red leather textured jackets paired with a regular-fit plaid pants, matching color-blocked ensembles to a sleek black dress with frontal zips and quilted leather jackets with striped pants were some of the most apt examples to depict the same.These were accessorized with matching leggings, hats, boots and gloves. Overall, the collection combined some classic designs with a modern twist.

Moving on, FELDER FELDER showcased a collection that was elegant, cool and effortless in every way possible. With a strong focus on music, the collection was inspired by the 70’s ‘rock n roll’ era of fashion. Richly defined garments, models walked in A-line dresses and one-piece numbers that were laced and sequined to perfection. The bold use of metallic made the collection edgy and halter-neck gowns, followed by fitted jackets were a definite frontrunner. Printed chiffon dresses with a daring plunge line contained frilled corset, giving the whole collection a Boho twist. Banded body suits and transparent silk blouses were comfortably accessorized with peep-toe platform heels that were crafted from rich patent leather, with slouchy fur coats being a definite must-want. The color palette included bold pastels like copper, peacock green, maroon, chocolate brown and smoky black.

Next was, Jean Pierre Braganza who showcased some futuristic and edgy ensembles in terms of the cuts and silhouettes. A range of ensembles in shearling, leather and chunky knits were showcased. Exaggerated shoulders on fitted outfits gave subtle hints of masculinity and strength. The designer played a lot around leather accessories such as chokers, bands and cutwork boots. The color palate mainly comprised of deep red, wine, black, white and cream.

The British based designers, Teatum Jones showcased a collection that witnessed striking tailoring, followed by bold and exquisite fabrics. With their signature statement coats and shirtdresses, the collection had a certain feminine as well as a fluid appeal to it. Embellished V-neck dresses were followed by double-breasted coats with patched leather and checkered gingham. A lot of attention was given to the cuts and craftsmanship of each and every garment as evident laser cuts adorned figure-defining clothes. Deep V-neck banded blouses were frilled and embellished to perfection, followed by textured pencil pants. A lot of two-toned dresses were crafted from exotic snakeskin and textured pastel patterns. For the perfect footwear trend models wore metallic espadrilles and were enveloped in bold pastels like black, cobalt blue, off-white and rose pink.

Next in line was Fyodor Golanwho showcased a modern quirky-sport appeal. The garments showcased had floral motifs like lotus and orchids, whimsical elements like unicorns, and rainbows. It also had a hint of the 1970s’ decade with polka dots, metallic ensembles and details on ensembles. Neon green detail as shown in gloves, collars and pockets stood out in this whimsical collection presented by the designer-duo.

Paul Costelloe’s collection had a strong sense of style and aesthetic appeal, the highly acclaimed British designer showcased a collection a modernized version of the brand’s design heritage. Textured tops with bell-shaped sleeves were extensively layered and matched with form-fitting pencil skirts. With frilled collars and exaggerated hemlines ball gowns were corseted to the waist and followed by a bold inclusion of shawl as well as notched lapels. A-lined dresses and tweed overcoats had a rich fur collar and nearly each model wore stockings with lace-up boots. Bringing back the quirky Goth fashion, coat dresses with puffed-up sleeves and extra bold knits were an absolute stunner. The color palette contained a rich array of bright infusions that ranged from burgundy, light mustard and tangerine to subtle beige, black and chestnut green.

Next was Sass &Bide, whose collection circled around colors like black and metallic hues like gold and silver. The women of Sass & Bide stood for confidence, ultra-glamorous women of contemporary times. The garments were embellished in metallic shades and paired with a variety of materials like leather, sheer fabric and luxurious shearling. From a two-piece gold outfit paired with a leather jacket to a plunge-neck dress with gold embellishment, the garments showcased were very rocker-chic. The collection also incorporated a mini-robot into their ensembles that added to a fun yet edgy look.

Moving on was Molly Goddard whose collection hugely focused on traditional handcrafted techniques like pleating and crocheting. With a sense of playfulness and fragility, the dainty-like garments took every fashion enthusiast on a nostalgic toll. Focusing on slouchy silhouettes, model wore cashmere cardigans with frilled tulle skirts that were textured and crushed at the waist. Strapless A-line dresses were followed by boat neck numbers and bodycon one-pieces. Straight-fit tunic dresses were perfectly paired with black stockings and buckled brogues. The color palette included warm tones of baby pink, mustard, black and smoky grey.

Next in the lineup was Fashion East, whose collection showcased three designers namely Caitlin Price, Ed Marler, and Mary Benson with their preferred design aesthetic. Caitlin Price presented a collection that showcased street style in luxurious fabrics. From a fuchsia satin tracksuit appliquéd with rosettes. This particular technique shone through the rest of her garments, from jackets, dresses with models in kiss-curls. The collection presented by Ed Marler seemed rather costume-like with a deliberate trash-glamour appeal. Amidst the stage, which was set in a sitting room of the Fifties and the Sixties, models donned the outfits like a polka-dotted dressing gown, a shearling coat, silk track-pants etc. Mary Benson collection revolved around the currently most-trending decade of fashion, the 70s’.It was the static presentation, which further added to a dramatic effect. The collection comprised of form-fitting asymmetrical dresses, flared pants embellished with coins and metallic detail and baby-doll halter-neck dresses to name a few.

Moving on, Le Kilthad Scottish heritage and a desire to play with modern style, Samantha McCoach presented a collection that was chic and traditional in every way possible. The bespoke tartan check could be seen incorporated on nearly each and every garment that ranged from high-waited wrap-up skirts to long pleated numbers. V-neck cardigans and slouchy t-shirts were followed by fitted jackets and cropped blouses. To perfectly accessorize each and every look, models wore bob hats and fringed leather loafers. The color palette included simple pastels like cobalt blue, steel grey, mustard, black and white.

The last batch of students, from Central Saint Martins presented a spectacular show that invoked a sense of optimism for the future of fashion. The collections represented a very strong view on fashion. Thesus Bucks was inspired by his mother’s garden. Beth Postle’s collection was inspired by Jean Dubuffe through pops of bold color on white ensembles. Hayley Grundmann’s showcase combined both trash and luxury to give a modern look. These were just some of the many great showcases by the talented youth. This is a great platform for showcasing fresh talent in an otherwise ‘saturated’ industry.

Day 1 ended with PPQ founded by Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker, thatwere inspired by the Goth and pop-chic culture of the 80’s musical era. With extravagant makeup and an uptight hairdo, models boldly strutted the runway wearing frilled blouses with puffed-up sleeves, followed by fitted pencil short skirts. Belted coats with a shearling trim were worn over keyhole LBD’s and strapless numbers. Tunic dresses with shirt collars were followed by laced jumpsuits and leather body-hugging pants. Halter neck column dresses were crafted from superfine silk and contained an exaggerated peplum-style waist. One of the absolute standouts from the show was the form-fitting asymmetric gown with a transparent bodice and embellished floor-length trail.

Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar

Day 9

As the New York fashion mania came to an end, Day 9 saw some of the most celebrated designers on the fashion forefront who portrayed a rich exuberance of modern minimalist clothes with a wintery tinge. From Ralph Lauren’s American hippy trail to DorinNegrau’s vintage tribal affair, it was a perfect amalgamation of the designer’s creative aesthetics with that of their traditional heritage.

The day began with the American maestro’s Fall collection,Ralph Lauren. It literally embodied understated sophistication with utmost attention to detail. The designer donned an expression of personal style that has already been already been recognized and coveted around the world over a period of four decades. Inspired by the American cowboy and hippy cultural aesthetics, the collection was a perfect combination of luxuriously wrapped garments with dapper silhouettes embodying the female figure. Knitted jumpsuits and textured cardigans were followed by fringed ponchos and fur jackets. Ethereally feminine, some of the evening numbers ranged from deep plunging gowns to heavily laced and sequined stunners. Embellished blouses were worn with pencil wrap-up skirts and accessorized with oversized suede belts. A lot of attention was paid to tailoring and models walked confidently in form-fitting tuxedos, followed by fine silk bow ties. In accordance to the wintery affair, chunky necklaces were married with fur-lined bucket bags and the color palette included pastels like black, off-white, dusky brown and camel.

Moving on, Tokyo Runway Meets New York highlighted the limitless talent through Japanese designer collections on the runway. An assortment of trends for Fall Winter’2015 were displayed. Sought after winter must-haves like biker leather jackets, shearling coats and others with exotic fur lining were showcased that stood in contrast to classics like plaid, stripes and  classic suits. The era of 1970s’ made a comeback with metallic colours and polka-dot dresses. The combined collection was the perfect example that incorporated classics with contemporary trends.

The Romanian-based fashion designer, DorinNegrau presented a collection that included versatile designs complimenting a tribal-spirited woman. Clean cuts and a rich array of textured fabrics made each garment standout from the rest. Embroidered jackets were corseted at the waist and worn with flowy skirts. Zippered cabans were richly lined with fur and appliquéd with large floral motifs. As each model swayed pass the runway, one could not get their eyes off the minimalistic silk gowns that had a backless edge and a daringly feminine silhouette. Crispy-white shirts were worn with slouchy cut-sleeved jackets and flowy crepe kaftans were accessorized with colorful embroidered headgears. A rich array of sober pastels were used to craft the wearable, yet chic garments and some of the dominant colors ranged from lemon yellow, deep magenta to ruby red and classic black.

The classic American label known for its minimalism colours and cuts, Calvin Klein delivered the same but with an elevated sense of opulence. The colour scheme was kept limited to white, cream, black, apricot with dashes of deep red here and there. There was an evident influence of the 60’s era with the thigh-high leather boots and the silhouettes showcased. A variety of exotic skins like calfskin, pony skin and comfy knits like metallic cashmere or ‘lurex’ were used. Models donned ribbed mini-dresses with frontal zips, an ankle-length double breasted ivory trench-coat, leather top with patchwork leather skirts and much more. Overall, the collection was slightly edgier than usual with bold necklines and lots of leather.

Moving on, Sergio Davila, the Peruvian-based designer showcased a collection that emphasized on quality of natural fabrics like cotton, Alpaca and silk. A perfect blend of fine tailoring with a sporty chic elegance, made each garment desirable and wearable. Textured bombers crafted from fine leather were paired with form-fitting pants and nearly each look had an exaggerated shearling collar. Tailored suits were worn with high-waisted trousers and uni-linear patterned cashmere cardigans were accessorized with plaid fringed scarves. Belts were an important part of the show as men and women, both wore stunning weaved numbers. V-cut suede platform boots and pointy suede lace-ups were the perfect footwear choice and a definite must-have too. Models were drenched in toned-down earthy pastels of grey, olive, burgundy, ombré and navy blue.

NYFW Fall’2015 officially closed with a sartorial collection presented by the designer Sherri Hill. It showcased a collection of evening wear gowns that seemed perfect for a red carpet event. Elegant and regal, the garments showcased had a subtle touch of the bygone decades. Some of the outfits that stood out today were: a semi-sheer neutral gown with an elegant design, a bias-cut gown with baroque inspired detail, a ruby red embellished fishtail gown, and a daring thigh-slit embellished gown.The collection was the perfect amalgamation of opulence and feminine beauty.

 

Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar

(DAY – 2)

Day 2 of London Fashion Week continued as some of the best-known Brit designers showcased uber-cool and relaxed creations. From Jasper Conran’s geometric beauties to Emilia Wickstead’s Japanese-inspired geishas, it was a perfect combination of design aesthetics and heritage craftsmanship. As floral and abstract patterns were the frontrunners, a subtle array of pastels was incorporated onto each and every garment.

The day began with Mother of Pearl under the design direction of Amy Powney who showcased a collection that was heavily inspired by the artisanal heritage of the brand ethos. A sporty-chic collection, a lot of minimalistic floral patterns could be seen on incorporated on straight-cut garments. Tunic dresses with mandarin collars were paired with textured skirts and sturdy leather totes. Suede cardigans were intricately textured with a floral abstract pattern, followed by laser-cut harem pants. Chiffon dresses with bow detailing were followed by gingham emblazoned zipper jackets and perfectly accessorized with rust brown oxford brogues. A very sober color palette was followed throughout the collection and some of the pastels included baby pink, lime yellow, tangerine, black and chocolate brown.

Then stepped in Orla Kiely whose collection invoked a sense of heritage evident through traditional use of print and fabric. Models showcased her garments while they silently walked through the library in outfits that were nostalgic of the bygone era of the Sixties and Seventies. The colour scheme of the Sixties was incorporated into the garments like pastel pink, orange, pale green and yellow. From a sandy double-breasted trench-coat to a knee-length striped dress with a peter-pan collar to a cashmere cardigan paired with a mini-skirt, the looks were symbolic of good-old times. These were also accessorized with matching patterned bags.

The highly acclaimed British designer, Jasper Conran’s fall collection was all about the use of bold geometric as well as abstract patterns. A lot of suede was used to craft the ‘utterly wintery’ collection as models swayed on a runway covered with maple leaves. From slouchy overcoats to leather zippers, pleated shirts were paired with frilled and flowy skirts. Tunic dresses and oversized knitted duffle sweaters were perfectly paired with peek-a-boo hats and leather sandals. Zigzag patterns were incorporated onto U-shaped dresses that were clasped to the waist with a suede bow. The designer used a very sober color palette and some of the bold pastels ranged from forest green, deep maroon to navy blue and chocolate brown with slight infusions of deep aubergine and rich burgundy.

Faustine Steinmetz took on everyday items like denims, t-shirts, sneakers and gave them a completely modern makeover like a piece of art. The cleverly conceptualized garments breathed in fresh air into classics. The outfit that really stood out was the denim pencil skirt which didn’t look like denim but felt like it in an arty way.

Moving on, Emilia Wickstead portrayed a rich influence of a Japanese geisha in her latest AW collection. From textured asymmetric dresses to bell-sleeved tunics, a lot of suede and tweed was used to design the richly layered garments. Plunging jumpsuits and T-shaped dresses were followed by belted peplum tops and abstract-textural skirts. Even patent vinyl overcoats were paired with exaggerated notch-lapel dresses. Tapered trousers and turtleneck cardigans were accessorized with strappy leather sandals. One of the standouts of the show was the burnt copper evening A-line gown that had a banded neckline and a high-slit opening. Models were drenched in a wide array of colors and some of the pastels included tones of lavender, breezy blue, copper, classic black, beige and ruby red.

Sibling put together asophisticated showcase of the confident woman. It incorporated intricate details and featured a range of luxurious fabrics to dive in. The collection revolved around colours like pink, orange, black and cobalt blue. The quirky designers presented solid colours, tribal prints, stripes and checks in their usual mannerisms but this time played it more with embellishments, shearling trims, sparkle and pairing contrasting fabrics together.

With a Gothic-chic approach towards design and a past work apprenticeship with labels like Givenchy and Alexander McQueen, Julien Macdonald’sshow was an absolute must-watch. With the use of extravagant embellishments and intricate lacework, each garment made a style statement of its own. Strapless dresses and plunging body suits had layers and layers of hand-placed sequins. Structured hemlines and corseted boostiers were crafted from exotic fabrics like snakeskin and calf leather. High-slit banded dresses were belted to perfection and this was followed by off-shoulder leather gowns that were accessorized with leather gloves. Bodycon suits and pleated skirts were worn with bandaged tops and suede pumps. The designer used a very dark color palette that consisted of solid pastels like copper, black, bottle green, velvety blue and dazzling silver with hints of deep claret.

Markus Lupfer brought spring to life in a garden like display on the runway. It had a typical London girl attitude to it. The collection possessed a modern sports-luxe viber to it. Jacquard dresses, chunky sweaters, shimmering skirts, floral sunglasses and glittering sneakers made their appearances on the runway.

The Scottish designer Holly Fulton’s Fall collection was all about relaxed modern luxury. From rich and embellished fabrications to multi-layered surfaces, a lot of attention to detail was kept in mind while designing the complex graphic embellishments. A true reflective of the brand’s design aesthetics, models walked wearing unstructured silk blouses and tapered woolen trousers. Long leather overcoats had intricate embroidery done on the collars and cuffs. Halter neck dresses were laced to perfection and this was followed by patterned blazers and A-line tulle skirts. A lot of Mongolian fur was used to craft oversized coats and line embellished cuffs. Sculpted bodices were adorned with organza blooms and crystal beadwork. A very light color palette was followed to design the extravagant collection as model were enveloped in pastel shades of almond, off-white, olive green, rose-pink, purple, burgundy and ombré.

Known as the ‘Dark Lord of Dramatic Fashion’, Danielle Romeril  delivered on point today. It had a futuristic vision where one could not shop anymore so one had to make do with what was left. It was set in a neutral colour palate like black, white, cream and grey. The silhouettes showcased were loose and baggy which were made of velvet, lace, plaid and technical quilting. The designer also incorporated capes which is a hot trend on the fall runway this year.

The Brazilian designer, Lucas Mascimento did a fine job with his AW collection and each garment was crafted with utmost sophistication and refinery. From knitted fabrications to textured silhouettes, the whole collection was a futuristic and a modern take on classic signature styles. From deep V-neck jumpsuits to floral cashmere cardigans, nearly all tapered trousers contained crushed gold embellishments. A lot of rich garments like lambskin leather and suede were used to create fine feminine silhouettes that were seductively feminine. Slouchy jumpsuits and tulle skirts had a lot of uni-linear patterns that were adorned with glitzy embellishments. Models were drenched in pastels of blue, maroon, rust, purple and black.

J W Anderson Women showcased a rather off-beat collection which had a certain vibe of futuristic elements to it. Like his Fall Menswear Collection, the designer incorporated leather heaps galore this time as well. The colour palate was set in black, ivory, shades of brown, touches of forest green and orange. The looks were majorly accessorized with knee-high leather boots with metal knobs to the side. From solid colors to graphic prints, the main emphasis laid was on the cut and drape of the garments. From fitted dresses with exaggerated shoulders to overtly loose jackets with kimono sleeves, a range of silhouettes were showcased.

Moving on, 1205, the British label, founded by Paula Gerbase, showcased a collection that was a sartorial take on a sporty-chic look. Being a Saville Row tailor at Kilgour, her design aesthetics could be evidently seen on carefully structured garments. Bold knitted cardigans were paired with flared pants and patent brogues. Fitted jackets were worn over crinkled shirts that contained mandarin collars. Oversized weatherproof shirts had patch pockets, followed by checkered trousers and belted jackets. Even though the collection was utterly minimalistic, there was an extreme subtlety to each and every look that made it standout from the crowd. The color palette consisted of simple, yet bold pastels like beige, dusky grey, deep navy and black.

Simone Rocha’s collection showcased feminine dressing with a dark facet to it. The collection had a subtle hint towards Bourgeois. The colour palate was set in neutral tones in black, white, cream and red. It involved floral motifs set in dark tones, brocade work, 3-D flowers the garments. A lot of sheer was used in this collection. From knee-length lengths outfits to short dresses, a variety of hemlines including asymmetric ones were also used.

Day 2 at London Fashion Week Fall’2015 ended dramatically with Gareth Pugh’s Collection.The show was rather dramatic as strong, bold and rebellious women walked the ramp in his dark collection. It was an all-black collection with Red Cross marks across the face. It majorly featured full A-line skirts with dramatic collars, dresses in spiky straw fringes added to the dark warrior fantasy.

With designers showcasing bold personalities on the runway, each aesthetic was strong yet unique in their own way. Day 2 at London just made us more curious as to what to expect next on Fall runways for 2015.