Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar

(DAY – 5)

Day 5 of London Fashion Week ended on a ‘luxe’ note as designers showcased a rich array of bold garments that ranged from arty and quirky prints to rich textured lacy affairs. Uber-cool glam styles were used to define utterly feminine silhouettes that only mastered the female silhouette but also refined it. Black, being the frontrunner in every designer’s collection was innovatively matched with other bold pastels like red, burnt pink and dark aubergine.

Ashley Williams’ Fall collection was all about pairing retro glam fashion with pop art culture. Comic characters and abstract typographic fonts were emblazoned onto body-hugging garments like zipper strapless LBD’s and cashmere cardigans with built-up collars. A-line dresses with extravagant pleats were paired with studded pumps and chunky neckpieces. Asymmetrical dresses and turtleneck jumpers were matched with slim-fit trousers, followed by high-waisted mermaid skirts. Cropped tops and plunging dresses were crafted from rich patent leather and graphic-printed shirts and cutout stockings. Warm cabans and leather coats with exaggerated shawl lapels were line extravagantly with super-authentic fabrics like shearling and mink. Flowy jumpsuits were banded to perfection and micro-mini skirts, crafted from fine tulle, had intricate meshwork done on them. Off-shoulder tunics were the major standouts from the show, paired perfectly with mink-lined hats. The color palette consisted of bold pastels like black, baby pink, beige and hints of lemon yellow.

Moving onto Anya Hindmarch, known to be inspired by things often overlooked, took to a theme based on traffic symbols called ‘Diversion’. The collection mainly comprised of bold colors like red, cobalt blue, olive green, grey and white. The focus was primarily paid on bold prints both textual and symbolic. From jumpsuits with ‘Men at work’ symbols, funnel-neck tops and skirts with ‘Free Delivery’ prints, shearling coats with ‘North, South’ symbols to name a few. The designer put up quite a quirky collection on the runway with equal attention was paid on accessories like bags. Similar bold prints like ‘Go, Men at Work, No U-Turn’ accessorized with trucks, traffic cone key chains made their appearances on the runway.

Michael Van Der Ham’s AW collection was inspired by American artist, Andy Warhol as garments contained multi-fabricated layers and modern shapes referencing from the by-gone era. A-line dresses and boat-neck gowns contained intricate embroidery done on sheer panels of gauzy fabrics like silk organza and tulle. Pleated skirts crafted from rich crepe were paired with crinkled silk shirts, followed by puffed-up dresses with intense print work. Fitted tunics were carefully appliquéd with floral motifs and lace embroidery as each look was elegantly feminine and radiated utmost subtlety. Slouchy overcoats were patched with square-cut fabrics, followed by intense beadwork embroidery. Satin blouses were crinkled at the neck and paired with wrap-up skirts crafted from glitzy tweed and shimmery tulle. Models were drenched in a very colorful palette that consisted subtle colors like burgundy, mustard, lavender-blue, plum red, black and off-white.

Next in the line-up was Marques’Almeida, whose collection was colorful as multitudes of reds, yellows, blues, greens and splashes of other colors stormed the runway. The young and upcoming label’s collection had a wacky aesthetic with a vibe of the 90s’. The designer showed versatility in fabric choices from luxurious shearling to daily denims. The silhouettes were relaxed.  Apart from denims shown in asymmetric dresses, slashed jeans and tops, the collection also incorporated metallic, layered sheer and print-on-print ensembles. The looks were accessorized with white canvas shoes, knee-length boots and pointed-toe flats.

Christopher Raeburn, Creative Director for Victorianox, showcased a collection that was carefully structured with a warm and wintery aesthetic. With bold usage of colors like tangerine, steel grey, khaki and navy blue; models walked the runway wearing shearling-lined leather boots and weatherproof holdhalls. From rich duffle coats to bold asymmetric ponchos, slouchy woolen tees and high-sleet skirts were an absolute must-have. Abstract-print jumpsuits were worn under notched overcoats with a glitzy silver lining. Jumbo fringed scarves were accessorized with tweed Chesterfields and quilted zipper jackets. With a very chic military aesthetic, models walked in puffer turtleneck jackets and weatherproof bell-shaped cabans. A lot of attention was paid while crafting knitted accessories like slouchy hats and clasping belts that complimented each and every fashionable look.

Also, Tata Naka’s collection possessed a quirky, ultra-modern feel with an oriental touch. The designer’s witty use of color and pattern made his garments stand out with each having its own identity. Initially garments presented had floral prints with a recurring dragon motif in them. Some of the pieces even combined all the individual prints into one funky ensemble. Equal amount of attention was also paid in the garment-construction process, which was evident in the sharp silhouettes and cuts of the garments.  The striped tailored jacket and pant ensemble, a fitted peplum shirt and skirt to a fitted sheer top with a printed skirt were a few examples. The collection soon started merging towards bold color-blocks in contrasting colors. Towards the end, the ensembles got arty with portraits painted onto tailored jackets, fan skirts, thigh-slit skirts. Red lips with bangs and a high-bun kept the overall look chic and contemporary.

Then came, Spanish-based Emilio De La Morena, who showcased a sensually feminine collection that mainly focused on sexy cocktail looks by modernizing old and obscure craftsmanship techniques. Reinforcing a glamorous persona, each model strutted the runway wearing off-shoulder form-fitting dresses that were gilded with gold brocade and extra-soft velvet. Slouchy single-breasted overcoats were matched with asymmetrical tunic dresses that were adorned with intricate lace linings. Strapless sequined gowns with daring high-slits were matched perfectly with pointy platforms and lambskin leather gloves. Tapered skirts and velvet blouses were worn with oversized mink cabans as well as tailored coats containing a vivid zigzag pattern. Scoop-neck dresses and plunging numbers had vertical layers of intricate lace as a lot of attention and detail was paid on the cuts and pattern work adorned on each glam outfit. The color palette consisted of glitzy pastels like steel silver, gilded gold, deep ombré, ink blue and jet black with hints of deep burgundy and royal purple.

Ashish’s collection was inspired by Jane Fonda’s role in Klute. As the theme suggests, the garments showcased had high sex appeal as models strutted the runway in shiny red leather lace-ups, which complemented the red lips. It featured cameo-bombers along with lots of denim and fur. Fur was used in sleeves and collars while jackets and skirts featured patchwork of animal fur stuck to metal pins to add an element of opulence and edginess. A lot of red sequined embellishments were also used. The patchwork fur top with SEX emblazoned on it definitely grabbed eyeballs. The collection had tones of trash-glamour but in a more opulent way.

Next was Ryan Lo whoseromantic fantasy, unconventional designs and artisanal crafts acquired a new level of sophistication as a modern wardrobe was formed on the runway. From structured coats with extravagant mink lining to jaw-dropping A-line dresses, a lot of textured floral motifs were emblazoned onto the uber-cool garments. Straight-fit cashmere cardigans were paired with high-slit flowy skirts crafted from dégradé silk and English lace. Tunic dresses were appliquéd with floral motifs and a lot of uni-linear embroidery could be seen done on richly crafted garments, embodying the female silhouette. Plunging dresses and scoop-neck spaghetti tops were layered extravagantly with super soft fur as each look was paired with textured thigh-high boots as well as pointy pumps. Models were enveloped in a sober color palette that consisted of pastels like burnt copper, deep magenta, ink blue, off-white and lavender.

Concluding with Hakaan Yildirim, whose collection oozed power and masculinity as models in form-fitting ensembles strutted the runway. The color palette was minimal with red, teal, white, black and baby-pink outfits showcased in the collection. Simplicity was maintained in terms of detail while primary focus was paid on the drapes and the angular cuts of the garments. The collection embodied a sense of luxury with shearling and leather dominating the looks. Some of the outfits that stood out in this collection were the strapless leather jumpsuit, the red fitted leather dress with a thigh-slit, and the ankle-length baby Pink shearling coat and the winged-tip teal coat with flap pockets. The makeup was kept clean with plain glossy lips and tied hair.

Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar

(DAY – 4)

Day 4 of British high fashion continued as designers showed a rich array of heritage-inspired statement garments. From Burberry’s classical Bohemian ecstasies to Antonio Berardi’s textured floral frenzies, it was a day filled with glamour, uber-cool style and bespoke craftsmanship. Even though classical black and fur were the frontrunners, Goth-inspired creations and intricate fringing also came to the forefront.

The day began with Antonio Berardi who showcased a collection that was a perfect blend between traditional Saville Row tailoring and offbeat floral creations. With a dash of feminity and a sense of quality, each garment radiated the culture and fusion of Sicilian traditions. A-line dresses were pleated towards the bottom and worn with striking floral imprinted boots. Plunging peplums and structured LBD’s were worn with layered fur coats and abstract-print jackets. Quilted zippers and bell-sleeved tunics complimented perfectly with the wave-like molded skirts, followed by straight-fit dresses and off-shoulder numbers. A lot of fine silk and crepe was used to create body-hugging garments as each outfit was embroidered with intricate gold embellishments. Cropped tops and corseted jumpsuits, rhythmically enhanced each female figure as models were drenched in solid pastels ranging from navy blue, steel grey and fiery red to burnt pink and olive yellow.

Erdem’s collection was a throwback to the bygone decade in fashion as models donned outfits that were inspired by the 1950s. The richness of colours showcased on the runway matched the opulence of the fabrics. The collection showcased a range of prints like floral, hound’s-tooth, leopard and geometric across varying hemlines. Some of the outfits that stood out were the brocade baby-doll dresses, a sheer geometric-print jumpsuit, and an animal-print skirt-suit to name a few. The looks were accessorized with leather boots Erdem: The designer’s collection was a throwback to the bygone decade in fashion as models donned outfits that were inspired by the 1950s. The richness of colours showcased on the runway matched the opulence of the fabrics. The collection showcased a range of prints like floral, hound’s-tooth, leopard and geometric across varying hemlines. Some of the outfits that stood out were the brocade baby-doll dresses, a sheer geometric-print jumpsuit, and an animal-print skirt-suit to name a few. The looks were accessorized with leather boots.

Moving on, Christopher Kane opened the show with black suits in red and blue detail on the lapels which gradually moved towards dresses with female silhouette patterns in those colours. The collection featured a lot of metallic shades in his garments like the forest-green pleated skirt paired with a lurex cardigan or the iridescent velvet-dress. Tangerine, the currently hot-trending colour made its debut on the runway in an asymmetrical dress, a printed coat, an oversized shirt dress with an abstract print. The collection culminated with dresses that featured prints of the female form to add an element of sensuality.

Roksanda, the Belgrade-based designer did a fine job with her Fall collection, as her signature take on shape and bold colors became a modern approach to luxury fashion. Architecturally crafted and intensely colorful, each model was enveloped in a rich array of bold pastels like baby pink, deep burgundy, mustard yellow, royal blue, smoky lavender and jet black. Knitted dresses were crafted from tonal hues of rich tweed and extravagant fur coats luxuriously wrapped each feminine figure. Peplum coats with shawl lapels and deep V-neck leather cabans were paired with tapered trousers and high-waisted skirts. Geometrically shaped dresses and checkered fur coats were clasped to the waist with bold statement metallic belts and patent lace-ups. Silver embellishments and textured patterns were an absolute stunner as the collection was crafted with a ‘modern-lux’ appeal.

The former LVMH Young Fashion Designer Award winner Thomas Tait showcased a collection that was worthy of acclaim. The collection showcased lean and slender silhouettes across outfits like dresses cinched at the waist, fitted jackets worn over regular-fit trousers, single-breasted coats with wide belts. The collection had a touch of westerly cowboy appeal as models donned leather outfits like the pencil skirt, patchwork zip-up skirt and a leather jacket in shades of brown and black. The designer also highlighted the neutral tone collection with some pieces in mustard-yellow like the single-breasted coat and a matching two-piece.

Barbara Casasola showcased a collection that radiated a traditional modernism with sensual and simplistic silhouettes. Knitted cropped cardigans were paired with flowy flared pants as well as slim-fit trousers. Angel-sleeved shirts were matched perfectly with long pleated skirts as well as suede espadrilles. Tailored coats and harem pants were the frontrunners as garments were crafted extravagantly from different fabrications like crepe, Mohair and soft lambskin. Deep V-neck dresses and knitted jumpsuits were followed by slouchy numbers and keyhole baby dolls. Circular gold earrings and thigh-high vinyl boots made statement accessories as the color palette included bold pastels like black white, forest green, cobalt blue and burgundy.

Peter Pilotto put up a fun and quirky collection inspired by board games. A wintry collection was made playful as the designers incorporated art and graphics based on their inspiration. The label known for its funky sense of colour and patterns showcased neon greens, blues, yellows and oranges in their prints. The collection mainly comprised of graphically appliqued coats, some of which had shearling collars otherwise majorly a top and a pencil skirt combination with neon collars and waist-bands were shown. Dresses showcased towards the end of the collection had asymmetric lengths and bright colour combinations. These were accessorized with colorful strappy shoes with hair neatly kept loose.

Probably one of the most anticipated shows, Burberry Prorsum did a fine job in amalgamating British heritage craftsmanship with digital design engineering, under the direction of Christopher Bailey, the brand’s AW collection was inspired by the classical Bohemian country and its intense culture. Quilted jackets, fringed ponchos and mirror-embellished trench coats were crafted from rich fabrications like suede, silk, leather and of course… gabardine. Utterly feminine, each model walked the runway carrying bold fringed bucket bags that were emblazoned with extravagant shearling and arty animal prints. A lot of patchwork could be seen done on hand-painted suede Chesterfields that defined the perfect female contour. Block printed dresses were camouflaged with intense floral embroidery and then appliquéd onto the garments, making each piece standout from the rest. Also, V-slit suede boots and super soft cashmere scarves made the perfect accessory must-have for every fashion enthusiast. Models were drenched in sober and warm pastels of honey, chocolate, sea blue, burgundy, forest green, smoky black and khaki.

At first glance into the Hunter Original’s collection, warm tones radiated of tangerine, brown, maroon, navy blue and grey. The aesthetics were clean and simple with a touch of androgyny. From matching separates, chunky knits paired with printed pants to an oversized jacket with shearling on the collar and sleeves were worn over leather pants, the collection had a touch of modernity with the essence of winter through the choice of colour and fabric incorporated.

The London-based brand, under Osman Yousefzada, showcased a collection that contained unique architectural aesthetic and strong sculptural design used to flatter a female body. Clean forms and precise tailoring was incorporated onto each garment that was based on intricate cutwork and masterful draping. Textured overcoats and strappy jumpsuits were paired with pointy pumps and nude sporty stockings. U-shaped pea coats were crystal embellished and line with fur as each model donned lacey jumpsuits and straight-fit jackets. Deep plunging gowns and halter-neck were fit for any red-carpet event. Quilted zippers were crafted from patent leather and embellished silk, accessorized perfectly with extra-large fur clutches. Solid pastels like red, black and white were used to define the intense color palette.

Huishan Zhang’s collection that was based on bold, yet subtle looks incorporated with modern textured patterns. Having previously worked in couture ateliers of Dior, there was a certain sense of modernity present in his figure-defining garments. Animal print cropped tops and shearling overcoats were worn over lacy blouses and tapered silk trousers. Monochromatic skirts and embellished tunics were matched perfectly with intricately embroidered shirts and harem pants. Column dresses and floor-length gowns contained extensive meshwork as each piece was crafted from extravagant garments like rich tweed and layered chiffon. The color palette consisted of bold pastels like burgundy, cobalt blue, ruby red, black and off-white.

Moving on,British designer Giles Deacon, having previously worked at Gucci and Bottega Veneta, showcased his AW collection inspired by the rich Goth and French cultures. With a black lip and extravagant makeup, models strutted the runway in uber-cool attires that had an Avant-garde feel to them. Bell-shaped overcoats and vinyl jackets were worn under ruffled shirts and puffed-up trousers. Deep boat-neck blouses and fitted jackets were paired with high-waisted skirts and bow-embellished pumps. Nearly each outfit had ruffled sleeves and a Ruff collar inspired by the French renaissance period. Abstract-print ponchos and polka dot stocking were fitted to perfection, followed by graphic-designed plunging A-lines that were clasped to the waist with huge bows. One of the standout looks from the collection was a floor-sweeping two-piece gown, where the shirt had feather detailing on the sleeves and the skirt contained multiple layers incorporated with abstract graphic prints. The color palette ranged from light pastels like bright yellow and tangerine to darker hues of black and grey-blue.

Day 4 came to an end with Joseph’s collection which oozed femininity and luxury with the use of soft and neutral-toned fabrics. The mannerism in which the fabrics were draped further added to the grace factor. The colour palette was set in white, cream, black, grey and dull brown and camel. The garments showcased had a loose and airy feel to them. Chunky knits with ripped silky pants, a white shearling coat paired with a thigh-slit skirt, an ivory jumpsuit with a feminine drape to it were some of the many chic yet sophisticated outfits showcased by the designer. A casual element was added by accessorizing the looks with socks and sandals.