Bringing the essence of elegance to the cocktail hour, Satya Paul explores a new vocabulary of garment innovations for AW’13 Festive collection. Inspired by the various shades, the collection presents sensuous drapes in ombre , mustard, golden, wine red and partial embellishments, exuding femininity and grace.

Classic Indian silhouettes are reconstructed in a sleek manner, to bring in novelty, ease and poise. The lehenga is draped like a Saree, the Saree like a gown and so on. The pre-stitched kaftan Saree can be worn as an off-shoulder dress, or with a blouse, a sparkling jacket is added to the lehenga Saree keeping in mind the winter evenings, pre-pleated pallus are draped around the armhole.

Sparing highlights of gota pati, crystal and sequins are used to create the effect of the sun rays.

Engineered to drape naturally over the woman’s silhouette, sensuous sheers like silk georgettes and tulle have been used in combination with satins.

Antonio Marras show was very personal to his feeling and desire of making women fit into his life-form. Marras showed was a perfect encapsulation of his otherworldly fashion sensibility. There was a wide range of fabric used in the collection along with prints, laces and organza. Certain part of the collection have great constructed detailing on some home furnishing kind of fabrics a rose-printed cape back that was ruched like a curtain, or the print of an ornamental garden. His collection was usual artistic and portray of his romantic imagination. The colors dominated were military green, mute digital floral prints, white and black.

The Emporio Armani collection was poised with immense perfectness. The feel of the show was very clean and clear silhouettes typical Armani but the hair and stage looks bit like a destruction of nature, the hairs were braided and bobby-pinned into wheat, very natural yet destructed. A perfectionist himself made no doubt to show every detail in the catwalk. The collection had single-buttoned jacket in glen plaid over cropped black pants; the monochrome pantsuits, severe but soft; shiny jackets, the suits in pajama stripes; and pleated organza formed into party dresses. Some model came holding small hand clutch bag made of leather, more or less all the models had a handkerchief tied in the neck.

The Etro collection created by Veronica was a very clear inspiration from the psychedelic drapes, the prints were very graphic, abstract, naïve, whimsical and vibrant colorful. Off course these prints were the most eye catching part of the collection; keeping alive the tradition of Etro. Prints consist of paisley, splintered, collaged, and mutated; very fluid and merging into depthless. The drapes and silhouette was very loose and easy; long dress with draped shawl collar, knee length dress tied with thick metallic belt in the waist, long wrap around skirt with asymmetric jacket, loose fitted trousers with easy shirt. Leather bags were very frequently used by most of the model as an accessory.

After Umit Benan’s departure this is the first women’s wear showed by Gaia Trussardi; the collection has reflection of some American street style as inspiration. The brand kept in mind its signature details and continued showing the cowboy hats and the bandannas clasped with metal slides; they gave the clothes the feel of costumes. White long dress with same color matching jacket, off white tank top with beige leather handbag, red with sky blue jacket with red slim pant, black long dress with beige leather handbag. The collection over wall is a good new start and let see how things mature in the upcoming seasons.