Dries Van Noten’s RTW Spring 2014 collection was a spectacular fusion of reality with showmanship. It was blend of disparate elements brought into clear, fabulous focus.

The collection was a stunning display of dark tulip damasks, jet black ruffles, Byzantine gold, Ottoman tassels, and embroideries. The designer teased the face-off between the peasant authenticity of raw cotton and the outrageous flounce of gold lamé ruffles by sticking them in the same outfit. A tiny star print countered the scale of giant floral and a barbed-wire print, their prettiness. Van Noten’s use of honest, hardy fabrics like poplin, calico and natural linen resulted into bold combination of rich and poor. The astonishing looks were the roomy jackets and pants with a hint of the Eighties and a gold leather waistcoat gleamed under a rough calico coat.

Rochas Spring 2014 collection “The Glass Menagerie,” was the unconventional, irreverent acme of Macro Zanini’s nearly five-year tenure at the label and a summation of what he loves.

The models sashayed down the ramp in long dresses with a shirt collar and silvery cord; Organza blouses decorated with thermo-sealed crystals and bulging dresses and separates. Other astonishing looks were Zanini’s signature retro lady silhouettes, hand-painted velvet roses on organza gowns and fancy toppers combined with slippers trimmed in a fan of ostrich feathers. The color palate included a vivid range from blush to citron green. The most spellbinding material was a chartreuse technical fiber, more tinsel-like than velvet used for a simple coat.

A passion for science fiction drove Marcel Marongiu’s spring collection for Guy Laroche at Paris fashion week. He tested thick, techy materials on hoodies and skirts with flared hemlines, and fiber-optic fringe.

Shapes such as trenches, bombers and bubble dresses were theoretically wearable, the experimental fabrics and clunky volumes fizzled while white shirts with gold buttons and black pants were considered to be best.