Think African-inspired fashion and stereotypical images of animal prints, safari colours, , wooden beads and cowrie shells instantly come to mind. But, revisiting and redefining Africa this spring are a host of designers focusing their energies on the carefree gypsy woman of the subcontinent.Over the decades, many designers have been taken in by similar themes as the focus of their collections, first of them being Yves Saint Laurent’s African Collection way back in 1967. He’s also one of the first to use a dark-skinned model, Imam from Somalia on ramp. Fast forward to 2013, we see many African gypsies strut the runways.
Capturing the essence of a gypsy woman is Riccardo Tisci’s portrayal of Hubert de Givenchy’s earlier muse, Bettina for the Spring/Summer 2013 collection. Based on an old photograph of Bettina, the collection boasts of swirling paisley mixed with geometric prints. Giving a gypsy flavour was also Jean Paul Gaultier as he led a parade of off- shoulder tops, the long flowing skirts with a lot of patchwork and fringes that was reminiscent of a fortune-teller.
Focusing their energies on local handicraft was the stunning Spring 2013 collection by Moschino Cheap & Chic at the London Fashion Week that used wax print fabrics (known locally as Ankara in West Africa). These vivacious designs were highlighted because of their free use of African batik and tropical pineapple prints. Meanwhile at Max Mara, Milan Fashion Week the designer visited Colonial/Safari Africa by focusing on textures, animal prints and warm earthy tones.
Surprisingly, African influences were seen in the collection of couture designer, Tarun Tahiliani as he kicked off the Lakmé Fashion Week Summer Resort 2013 with models walking the ramp in Indian attire but with a gele (traditional African headgear). The strong black, white and pale shades of yellow, oranges and browns palette complemented the African-Indian gypsy influences in print. Designer Asmita Marwa also used a mix of mirror work, shells and antique prints to bring forth a modern-day gypsy look in her creations, in her collection titled “Moon Magic”. African and gypsy inspirations often find themselves a spot on the high street bandwagon. But UK based online store, ASOS takes the cake with their annual collaborative collection with SOKO Kenya that allows local communities to establish sustainable business through craftsmanship. From materials, prints to design the collection is inspired and made in Africa. For Spring Summer 2013, they have a heady mix of chartreuse green and monochrome designs on sleeveless shirts, sheer panel dresses and statement-making playsuits, perfect for a roaring summer.
