The Grace Kelly Style Icon Exhibition (17 April – 26 September 2010) at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London
The Thing that made her stand out is what we call ‘style’. McCall’s magazine. 1955
This is exactly what comes to my mind when I think of Princess Grace, so when I heard that there was a ‘Grace Kelly:Style Icon’ exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum and also that too was being held whilst I was in London I was adamant that I had to go. Actually it was my niece who is a first year fashion student at Birmingham University who told me about it as she chose to attend in order to get some material for her course work titled Style Icons. I was shocked to find that many days were a total sell out, and I really did not have much choice in the day and time slots. While my mother and I waited in the queue for the ‘Grace Kelly:Style Icon’ exhibition outside the V&A, I saw people of all ages ranging from school children to the elderly all having one thing in common and that being total admiration for Grace Kelly’s eternal style.
For me just to see a glimpse into the stylish wardrobe of one of the most photographed women of the 20th century Grace Kelly was so exciting as for me she totally epitomised classic, understated chic. Oleg Cassini was reported to have said that ‘Grace Kelly had perfected the art of wearing clothes that didn’t get too much attention, so she got noticed more herself’. It was enchanting to see how this exhibition explores through her surviving clothes, the story of her transformation from a Hollywood actress to a princess of one of Europe’s oldest royal families. Her enduring appeal as a style icon is very apparent, as the exhibition features her film costumes, the much-publicised dresses made for her trousseau and wedding, and the French haute couture that she required for her subsequent role as Princess of Monaco.
Grace Kelly in 1954
Paramount
Both on and off screen, Grace Kelly was an ambassador for simple American fashions such as shirtwaist dresses and casual shirts and trousers. She also owned several understated elegant evening gowns for attending special events. Her classic clothes were promoted as ‘the Grace Kelly look’ by retailers and fans emulated her immaculate grooming and sense of style.
Dress of layered grey over rose chiffon, appliquéd with rhinestones and pink and white embroidered flowers
Designed by Helen Rose, MGM costume designer
Costume for the musical comedy High Society
Directed by Charles Walters in 1956 and co-staring Bing Crosby and Frank Sinatra
The Hollywood star already known for her style arrived in Monte Carlo on 12 April 1956 for her wedding to Prince Rainer of Monaco, and with her brought 40 outfits and 30 pairs of shoes. With her athletic build and preference for low-heeled shoes, pearls and white gloves, Grace Kelly stood out for her conspicuously understated good taste. Her Hollywood contemporaries were dripping in fur and jewels, but it was this beauty’s restraint that meant by 1955 she was already on the United States Best-Dressed List, a major style barometer started by fashion arbeiter Eleanor Lambert in 1940. As well as being on top of this best dressed list, Grace Kelly was in every magazine allowing the world to admire her style and there was even a line of shop mannequins in her likeness that were distributed worldwide.
Taffeta dress with printed floral pattern
Designed for Grace Kelly by McCall Patterns and worn by her on the cover of their spring pattern book USA, 1955
Worn by Grace Kelly May 61955 for her first meeting with Prince Rainer at the Palace in Monaco. Grace was on the French Riviera for the International Cannes Film Festival where her movie The Country Girl was being presented.
Grace Kelly’s serious passion for fashion meant that once married, she had the interior of the family’s retreat at Roc Agel, in the hills above Monte Carlo,
remodelled around her need for extensive closets for her clothes (a move of which her French architect apparently disapproved very much). But in spite of this, she was peculiarly frugal. She was reported to do her own hair and nails, and on many occasions wore unknown designers. ‘She kept her clothes and wore them repeatedly and also looked after them. We have 42 dresses on show as a result,’ says Jenny Lister, curator of the V&A’s ‘Grace Kelly:Style Icon’ exhibition
The new Princess Grace of Monaco started shopping at the couture houses of Paris such as Balenciaga, Lanvin and most especially Dior. From being the American Hollywood actress interpreting European Fashion with her twinsets and pearls, she became the American enslaved to the historic houses which supplied her with many clothes that were suitably formal, but modern and eye-catching.
Grace Kelly, Princess of Monaco wearing a specially designed Van Cleef & Arpels three strand pearl and diamond necklace with matching earclips.
Given to her by Prince Rainer in honour of their engagement, 1956
Pink muslin polka dot dress with satin tie ribbon belt
Christian Dior
Worn by Grace Kelly on May 19 1972 to the award ceremony for the Cannes Film Festival.
From her immaculate headscarf all the way to her perfect poodle, Grace Kelly epitomised early 1950s Hollywood Chic. And even today, nearly three decades after her demise she still remains a style icon that many look up to, one famous example being the Hermes ‘Kelly’ Bag. Various anecdotes surround this bag: one is that she used it to cover her bump from photographers when first pregnant with Caroline. In fact, she had carried a padlocked Hermes bag from the beginning of her Hollywood days and was seen with it so often that it was already known as the ‘Grace Kelly handbag’ in the USA by 1956. It is true to say that it is because of this, the price and the waiting list for this iconic handbag had exploded and is still the case today.
It is in 1955’s To Catch a Thief that many style Gurus would say that Grace Kelly portrayed the most stylish image which has become one of film history’s most joyous and iconic images and that was of course the Grace Kelly scarf with those prominent dark sunglasses.
Grace Kelly actually had poor eyesight, and was frequently seen wearing glasses, but loved nothing more than the chic of dark glasses, and her along with Brigitte Bardott and Jackie Kennedy were responsible for bringing dark sunglasses into style in the 1960s and 1970s. By 1980, the London eyewear designer Oliver Goldsmith had created 45 bespoke frames for her.
Selection of eyeglasses and sunglasses by various designers, Oliver Goldsmith and Christian Dior.
The ‘Grace Kelly’ style is never far away in the world of fashion, reverberating at times through the collections of designers such as Gucci and Prada. In 2005 Gucci revived the Flora print it had originally created for a scarf for Princess Grace in 1966 and splashed it across every accessory from clothing to shoes and bags. In 2009, Vera Wang designed a variation on Grace Kelly’s famous wedding dress which she described as majestic and demure.
Green sleeveless dress with tie belt and matching bolero with three-quarter length sleeves (detail)
Givenchy
Worn by Grace Kelly on May 24 1961 on an official visit with Prince Rainer to lunch at the White House with President John F. Kennedy and First Lady Jackie Kennedy.
For me Jackie Kennedy and Grace Kelly were truly enduring style icons, this being evident in how many fans are still trying to emulate their style today and how much of their style is inspiration for collections of many designers. Handbags are named after them; different pieces of collections are invariably referred to as the Jackie Kennedy dress or the Grace Kelly shirtwaist dress, etc. I feel very privileged to have had the opportunity to attend this ‘Grace Kelly:Style Icon’ exhibition where through the clothes exhibited I could see the style transformation from Hollywood’s princess to a real European princess of one of the oldest royal families.
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Posted by : Pollyana Patel at 03:24 AM
Edith Barker & Pollyana Patel quickly became friends after meeting in Bangalore, India. Edith has a dual career in psychotherapy and fashion public relations; Pollyana is an image consultant, model, and the brand ambassador for Ritu & Rochana. They currently have two projects in development under Barker & Patel, and have agreed to join the FashionFad team to share their travels, experiences and musings.