Beauty this season is all about focusing on the counterpoints that make the makeup modern. It’s about understanding how to perfectly complement yet counterbalance the mood of the designers with a right beauty statement or how to translate the seasons retro references into a contemporary makeup means of subtle tweaks. However makeup artistes opines that it’s all about the juxtapositions.

Whatever the vibe, this season’s makeup is big on brave statements, experimental textures, handsome feminity and above all, an excitement about putting the art back in artistry.

M.A.C top-tier makeup artists headed by Vimi Joshi, Senior Artist Middle East & India and Caroline Donnelly, Senior Artist UK worked backstage and played key roles in creating the makeup looks on Beauty /Catwalk trend at the recently concluded WIFW A/W 2011.

Fashionfad.in brings you exclusive tips on face charts from the catwalks of top 8 designers …

Lakme Fashion Week Summer/ Resort 2011 was not only a celebration of the latest trends in ensembles but also the make-up and hairstyles that complete the oomph factor. So with every collection presented on the ramp by the host of designers, the beauty quotient kept changing. Some of the latest trends that emerged were as follows:

Getting the make-up right
Since summers are going to be hot and humid, the ‘less is more’ concept is totally sensible. With daywear in bright colours, the idea is to play down the colour palette when choosing the eye shadows and lips sticks or blush-ons for that matter, in order to avoid a jarred look.

For the eyes
Nude eyes are back as the smoky look is out this season. So only an overdose of mascara and a fine line of coloured khol pencil is cool. For the evening, the colourful liquid eyeliner is ‘in’ to add the dash of sparkle in a very subtle manner without going over-the-top. The eye shadows can be of the same colour as the bright pastel outfit, without looking clownish. But thick lines of black kajal pencil, especially under the eyes was consciously kept off the ramp to enhance the clean, youthful, summery look and feel.

On the cheeks
Highlighting the cheek bones can make a huge difference to the entire glamorous appeal. But it has to be done the right way in order to avoid the patchy look. For a change, instead of the rosy cheeks it was interesting to see how the glittering golden bronzer introduced by Lakme as a part of their Fantasy collection, being used to create a super-glam day look. Also, there were cute little temporary tattoos in silver, like stars and hearts drawn just above the cheek bones, near the corner of the eyes. They enhanced the boho-chic styling immensely and can actually be tried out off the ramp, for a cool and funky style statement.

Pout of the lips
There was gloss, gloss and more gloss! Whether the shades were kept to nudes or sweet rosy hues, the finish of the ‘lips stick kissed pouts’ actually reflected light and shone like mirrors. Actually it is a fact that lips tend to dry out more during the summers, than the winters. So this is also an ideal way to keep the lips soft, supple and hydrated in style.

From Cameron Diaz to Cindy Crawford to Britney Spears there is hardly any celebrity, singer or super model in the world who has not benefited from Chase Aston’s magical make-up skills.  Chase,  an International Make up Artist and   spokesperson, The Body Shop Make-Up, is a major force in the make up industry and he is continually creating new directions formulations and shade ideas.

Why is blusher so important? Why do we always have to make sure that it is in our make-up bag?
Blusher is a make-up must have! Use it to revive a dull, washed-out complexion and to create a fresh, rosy glow. Use a shimmering, golden hue to add warmth. It can be used to add structure to the face, helping to balance your features. By layering, you can also shape, shade and contour the complexion, adding definition and strength to otherwise weak features.

What is the best way to apply a Cream Blusher, a Mousse Blusher, a Powder Blusher or Liquid/Gel Blusher?
Powder Blusher
A Powder Blusher makes a bolder statement, because coverage tends to be medium to heavy. It is also the best formulation to shape shade and contour the cheeks. The best way to apply a Powder Blusher is to use a dome-shaped blusher brush (not a bronzing brush). Sweep the brush in a circle over the blusher, smile and then using short delicate strokes, sweep the blush onto the apple of the cheeks and up towards the temple, blending to a seamless wash of colour.

Liquid / Gel Blusher and Stains
These blushers/stains are usually duo use, which means that you can use them on both the lips and cheeks, alone or layered with alternative shades and products. Textures can vary from a sheer liquid to a creamy gel, imparting a long-lasting, natural matte stain. They can be used on all skin types, but are perfect for oilier and combination complexions, because the colour stays once applied, with no slipping or sliding. With liquid and gel blushers, they ‘stain’ your cheeks almost immediately. Apply blots of colour to the centre of the cheeks (apples) then using either your finger or a small firm blusher brush, blend in large circular motions all over and just beyond the apple of the cheeks. Once cheeks are stained, you can layer mousse, cream, powder blusher and bronzers all over, to shape, shade, contour and highlight.

What colours tend to suit different skin tones – pale skin tones, medium skin tones, olive skin tones, dark skin? How can we shop for the right shade of blusher?
Pale skin
Choose shades that mirror your natural blush. Pale peaches and pinks will flatter pale skin tones beautifully. Add a sheer wash of honey-toned bronzer to warm up for the evening.

Medium skin
Medium pinks, golden peach, and mauve-toned berry hues will always compliment a medium skin tone. Layer a shimmering soft, golden bronze blush, for a sun-kissed glow.

Olive skin
Olive skin tones suit brighter, pop shades; shades that will stand out from an olive complexion – brick brows, deep roses, plums and light berry tones, sheer bronzes with a hint of shimmer look fresh and pretty, as they make you appear as if you have a golden tan.

Dark skin
For darker skin tones, your blusher needs to stand out on the complexion. Avoid wearing pale pastel hues and textures as these will appear chalky and grey on your complexion. Use deep red tones, rich roses, brick reds, rusts, burgundies, rich mauves and succulent berry hues. Wear alone or layer over a deep golden bronze blusher to add warmth and a sun-kissed glow.

If you’ve applied too much blusher how can you tone it down without having to wipe all your make-up off?
Take a powder puff and wrap a clean tissue around it. Using The face mist or a fine mist water spray, lightly spritz onto the tissue, then press firmly over the cheek colour (do not drag or rub over cheeks). This will gently lift any excess colour, ensuring that you do not mess up your foundation or powder. Then take a clean blusher brush, dip into a little clear/translucent powder and blend over cheek colour.

Why does a nice blusher bridge the gap between spring skin and summer skin?
Trends come and go, but blusher will always be here to stay. Whether you like to wear your blusher as a sheer wash of colour, or to shape, shade and contour, or just as a high-lighter, a nice blusher is always the one constant that you can use 24/7, 365 days of the year. You can wear sheer blusher hues for all seasons, you can layer the same shade with a hint of sheer honey toned bronzer for a hint of a spring tint, you can layer with a shimmering golden hue for the summer, or complement with a shimmering highlighter for the autumn, and then adapt for the grey winter light, creating a fresh glow. Spring skin is fresh and flirty, whilst summer complexions are sun-kissed and glowing. Blend blusher shades in this season’s must-have hues together with just a hint of honey-toned shimmer or compliment with a lightening, brightening highlighter. This will give all complexions that “must-have” radiance and glow, so that you can transition your spring cheeks to summer. Early spring, complexions are bare and recovering from the harsh winter months. Use cream blushers and sheer highlighters to compliment the complexion and add much needed moisture, adapting and layering with cheek stains and powder blushers, bronzers and highlighters to create a fabulous summer glow.

What blusher colours can we expect to be popular for Spring/Summer 2010?
Soft neutral tones, elegant nudes and barely there pinks, complemented with a hint of highlighter to keep the cheeks fresh, polished, and radiant, with just a hint of subtle contouring. Always remember to blend, blend, blend! Pearly pinks (shimmering pale and golden pink hues), nearly nudes (beige and caramel), golden hues (sheer golden highlighters), corals (orangy-pinks) and radiant, honey-toned hues are all this Spring’s must-have cheek hues.

Namaste and Aloha!
This is India’s #1 fan and makeup artist, Mahealani “Mahe” Diego. Just returning from Delhi, having a blast at the first India International Fashion Week, I have the pleasure to write to you from beautiful New York City before travelling to Hawaii tomorrow, as I continue filming on ABC’s Emmy Award Television series Lost.
I am honored to share my thoughts on A/W 09 -10 skincare and makeup trends!

SKIN IS IN
Beautiful makeup definitely starts with beautiful skin. Stay healthy. Drink lots of water; maintain good diet and exercise everyday, not forgetting to take a daily multi-vitamin. This will give your mind, body and spirit a natural glow. You will also notice an increase in energy and confidence. A clear and clean complexion is the best accessory to have!

SKIN CARE
The morning is the best time to wash your face with cool water. Follow with a great moisturizer with SPF. If you have dry skin, use an eye crème and for normal to oily skin, use an eye gel. I am the biggest fan of a great eye product, as you can smile and tell a story with your eyes. Complete it with a lip balm and you are good to start your makeup!

For night care ,this is the best time for your skin to rest and repair. Cleanse your skin thoroughly using warm water. Follow with a toner to remove any excess dirt, oil and makeup. Use a serum of your liking, finishing with your favorite eye moisturizer. Complete with a PM face crème, not forgetting your neck and décolleté.

Don’t forget – to mask and exfoliate weekly! This will ensure a youthful and smooth complexion.

MY SECRET
Sunscreen is my ultimate fountain of youth. Use a minimum of SPF 30 in your daily AM routine. Add a few drops of sunscreen into your favorite moisturizer to add in protection, if you do not have a moisturizer with SPF.

MAKEUP TRENDS
It’s all about the eyes. I love black eyeliner, but let’s try to spice things up with a bit of colour and draw attention to my favorite feature. Using coloured eyeliner, line in and around your eye (see below for a colour match, but do not hesitate to experiment with different shades) smudge with an applicator or soft shadow brush to create a smoky eye. For dark/brown eyes, try navy blue or teal eyeliner. If you have green/hazel eyes, try royal purple or plum eyeliner. If you have blue eyes, try indigo or charcoal gray. This formula will give you a boost of color while lighting the natural shade of your eye.   A smoked out eye with a coloured liner is sophisticated, fashionable and indeed gives others a reason to look into those beautiful eyes! Follow with a beautiful great peach blush, lip gloss and you are ready for your day… 

MY FAVORITE THINGS
Mineral makeup – lightweight, buildable coverage, added SPF, are overall great for your skin!
Lip Gloss – if I could only have one thing in my pocket, this would be it! I can’t tell you how many times I have been saved on photo shoots with a simple cherry lip gloss. Apply to lips, THEN, using your fingers, apply to apples of your checks and crease of your eyes. You have a fresh look in less than 60 seconds!

Moisturizer – If I have said it once, I’ll say it again, beautiful makeup starts with beautiful skin! Carry a travel size moisturizer in your purse. Anytime you feel like you need a boost, apply with ring finger over your makeup where needed. An instant nap!

WHERE YOU’LL FIND ME …
Mahealani Diego is the Hollywood Make-up Artist and has worked with many celebrity faces. Her extensive works have appeared in various projects such as ABC’s Lost, Sak’s Fifth Avenue, whereas Mahe’s fashion work is seen in New York Fashion Week, Couture Fashion Week, Dominican Republic Fashion Week and Bucharest Fashion Week.
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