March 2017 - Page 8 of 12

They say, one must save the best for the last. Well, the maxim sure held true for AIFW AW 17 Day 1’s finale show – Vogue Saree 24/7. It was indeed, a glorious tribute to India’s traditional garb.

The show opened with the ever-so-gorgeous Monica Dogra performing, which one may have thought would take away from the glory of the showcase. Well, it did not, because what followed was far more bedazzling!

The show was divided into 5 themes – Blues, Pretty Florals, Tribal, Gold Embellishments and Gothic. Each of the themes had designers showcase their individual renditions of the concept “Sari for Day, Sari for Play” – whether it was Raw Mango’s quintessential silk brocade saree, Shivan & Narresh’s play with crystals, Fur details on Falguni and Shane Peacock’s saree hem and pallu, a gown-like silhouette by Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna, Dhruv Kapoor’s futuristic take on the garment or redefinition of the pallu by turning it in to a hood, by Rajesh Pratap Singh, the entire showcase of 60 beautiful sarees was nothing short of spectacular!

The designers who showcased their sarees at the show were:
Abraham & Thakore, Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla, Akaaro, Amit Aggarwal, Amoh by Jade, AM:PM, Anamika Khanna, Anand Kabra, Anavila, Anita Dongre, Anupama Dayal, Ashish N Soni, Bodice, Dev R Nil, Dhruv Kapoor, Eka, Ekaya, Falguni & Shane Peacock, Gaurav Gupta, Huemn (winners of Vogue India Fashion Fund 2016), Kallol Datta, Kotwara by Meera & Muzaffar Ali, Ikai by Ragini Ahuja, Kavita Bhartia, JJ Valaya, Malini Ramani, Manav Gangwani, Manish Arora, Manish Malhotra, Masaba, Matsya, Monisha Jaising, Nachiket Barve, Namrata Joshipura, Nikasha, Pankaj & Nidhi, Payal Khandwala, Payal Pratap, Payal Singhal, Pero, Raghavendra Rathore, Rahul Mishra, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Rara Avis, Rashmi Varma, Raw Mango, Ritu Kumar, Rohit Bal, Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna, Shantanu & Nikhil, Shivan & Narresh, Shyamal & Bhumika, Suneet Varma, SVA – Sonam & Paras Modi, Swati and Sunaina, Tarun Tahiliani, Urvashi Kaur, Varun Bahl, Vineet Bahl, and Vriksh.

Contributed by – Karishma Sehgal
Pics by- Khushal Agarwal

Indonesian fashion designer, Novita Yunus amazed everyone with eco friendly prints and represents Indonesian handwoven heritage in her new collection showcased at Amazon India Fashion Week (AIFW).

Novita was honored to visit India to showcase her new collection “BhoomiLangit”, presented by Jakarta Fashion Week which was dominated by prints of the Sun and leaves. When asked about the concept on which her collection is based on, she replied, “This line also represents Indonesian handwoven heritage. My concept depicts the sky and the earth. And the sky is represented by the symbol of the Sun, which mean glory and wisdom. I represented earth with the eco-prints.”

The designer’s show witnessed shades of brown, grey, black as the models donned cropped jackets, draped skirts, three-fourth length culottes and skirts layered with capes and scarves. The models walked down the ramp in wedge heels and slick ponytails. Accessories represented the roots of the collection as they were inspired by nature. Big chunky necklaces with Indian motifs, handbags , hats and more accentuated the earthiness of the whole collection.

Use of eco prints like leaves which have been used in textile prints using all natural dye added another element to the show. Play with silk, cut work and lot of rust and indigo color can be seen throughout the collection. “This is the new trend in sustainable fashion”, Novita told post-show.

Contributed by – Jasleen Kaur
Pics by- Khushal Agarwal

Indian revivalist Madhu Jain made her debut at the Amazon India Fashion Week, as the designer completes 30 years in this industry, her debut collection appeared to be a great platform to celebrate her journey through inter-weaving threads that translate into traditional fabrics that are a delightful to see and wear.

“I’m trying to showcase my 30 years of experience through this line. Since I’ve never done a show before this was the perfect opportunity to present my ikat and kalamari fabrics, especially which are prepared through a dyeing process” , said Madhu post show.

The show began with some beautiful live singing followed by models walking the ramp with Carnatic music playing in the background. Shades of red, black and white with geometric prints on sarees, suits, dresses gave an oriental feel to the collection.

Monochromatic tones gave a very fusion-like touch to the collection, accentuating the authenticity factor. Brocade, zari, gotapatti and patchwork are some of the embroidery styles spotted in the collection.

Contributed by – Jasleen Kaur
Pics by- Khushal Agarwal

Krishna Mehta’s Autumn Winter ’17 collection titled “Parted Lips” got everyone groovy, brings out the desires of a young vivacious woman who is graceful, yet mischievous. It a celebration of this young woman’s zest of life in form of clothing.

The collection features Krishna Mehta’s signature layering along with some daring silhouettes in bold colors. Jackets, be it cropped, Nehru or peplum are spotted in abundance and add an extra element to the designer’s layering technique. Dhoti pants, clinched waist, draped dhoti sari ,lehngas with shirts all give the collection a very fusion-like feel.

“The whole collection is a celebration of womanhood, I would say” , Krishna said about her collection. Maheshwari fabric, embroidered flowers, gotapattiwork, stand-out elements like patchwork along with geometric patches ; use of contrasting fabrics such as pleats and metallic to create dramatic texture are all high points of this collection.

Contributed by – Jasleen Kaur
Pics by- Khushal Agarwal

The show for Dabiri began with a surreal play of clouds on the screens in the background – perfect to set the mood for the dreamy spectacle that was in store. As a part of the Jharcraft initiative the collection saw a mix of silk and cotton lehengas, all in shades of white and gold.

There were Victorian signature ruffled necklines and sleeves; gorgeous gold knee-length mirror- work lehenga skirts; churidars bedecked with gotas; elongated embroidered capes and sheer drapes with gota detailing teamed with opulent lehengas – all so exquisite and magical that even a fall or two on the ramp (handled gracefully so) couldn’t steal the collection’s thunder.

The designer used delicate fabrics like tulle and organza blended beautifully with silk and cotton, adorned with chikankari and baroque embroidery; gota panels and embellishments; and bead work.

Contributed by – Karishma Sehgal
Pics by- Khushal Agarwal

A modern and stylish take on the muted and undiscovered glamour of Jharkhand tribals, Shruti Sancheti ‘tribe’ show began with an upbeat track that seemed in perfect synchrony with both, the walk of the model, and the swing of the garments.

The collection, though restricted to a limited colour palette of mustard, charcoal, burgundy, mahogany and purple, was, in fact, the least bit limiting. It encapsulated a harmony of tradition and trend. There was a play with layers, opaque and sheer fabrics were seen working their magic simultaneously, and ideal balance between structure and anti-fit was struck – all of these factors worked together to make the collection a work of sartorial excellence as much as a visual delight.

The most striking pieces from the collection were layered dhoti pants, peplum jackets, boxy crop tops, trench coats, maxi tribal skirts, and elongated capes, each of which had details of geo-ethnic patterns.

For the collection, designer has worked with tussar, spun cotton, eri silk, and mulberry silk while using kantha embroidery techniques.

Contributed by – Karishma Sehgal
Pics by- Khushal Agarwal

Rina Dhaka’s collection for Jharcraft saw a lot of tribal influences, the models strutted their stuff to peppy African tribal drum beats while donning coiled thread necklaces, shift dresses teamed with knee-high socks, layered looks, ruffled sleeves, fringe and tassel detailing on the accessories and garments, unconventional dhoti-style draped saree and beyond!

To set the mood and tone for the season, the collection predominantly comprised of beige and purple hues with slight hints of other colours seen in the embroidery and embellishments, that were accentuated all the more, courtesy the nude makeup and slicked back hairdos that the models sported. Tussar silk gave the garments that the right fall that they needed.

Contributed by – Karishma Sehgal
Pics by- Khushal Agarwal

Abraham and Thakore explored the “see now buy now” fashion trading format, with theentire collection will be available soon after the show, at Abraham and Thakore stores all over India.

Primarily created with Indian textiles made by hand, the collection “Back To Work” showcased separates in pure cotton. The designer duo is of the belief that light separates are actually great for summers as one can easily navigate the dressing option for an air conditioned room versus a non air conditioned setting.

The collection is a practical alternative to everyday workday needs of the urban Indian men and women who look for solutions that draw on tradition. “These clothes are contemporarised for a modern professional who despite air conditioned interiors, also has to function in 40 degrees Celsius. Breathable, light materials are practical as well as suitable for the need”, said the designer duo about their collection.

The collection challenges pre-conceived notions of gender specific dressing and dresses both men and women in options that suit both genders, sometimes interchangeably.
The color palette is ivory, madder, indigo and black. fabrics are cotton, hand printed or hand woven. The models sport unique styles such as kurta with choga jacket with pajamas, angrakha jacket with tee and lungi, nehru jacket, Kurt with a tie and many more.

Contributed by – Jasleen Kaur
Pics by- Khushal Agarwal

When the “Queen of Drapes” works her magic with the rich fabrics and weaves from Jharkhand, you know you’re in for a sartorial surprise!

Shaina N.C.’s Autumn/Winter 2017 collection at the Amazon Fashion Week was a tribute to Jharcraft, and Jharkhand’s textile and handloom legacy. The show marks her third successive Jharkhand-themed curation.

Shaina has used organic tussar, and added stunning variations to the fabric with a unique play of colours, textures and patterns.The collection saw muted hues of pink, orange, red, and blue – a welcome medley of colour .

The “Golden Tributes”, her collection also saw ubiquitous gold details – whether it was in the ornate brocade blouses, the intricate Gota Patti borders, or in the detailed gold thread work weaved beautifully on the six yards of sheer magnificence.

In the collection, the designer’s signature double-draped saris had an interesting fusion of leheriya, checks and stripes on the pallus and the pleats that combined the statement silks with soft, flowy fabrics.

Contributed by – Karishma Sehgal
Pics by- Khushal Agarwal

The 8th edition of Astitwa Awards hosted by Archana Foundation, held in Mumbai, was a mélange of educative and informative talks, along with well-designed fashion evening by Anju Modi & Farah Khan Ali.

Carrying the foundation’s legacy forward, the awards were a delightful and impactful presentation with participation from eminent women personalities, which included Smt. AmrutaFadnavis as the Chief Guest along with Smt. Rajashree Birla, Smt. Sangita Jindal, Smt.Vijaya Piramal, Smt.Nafisa Khorakiwala, Smt. Ruchira Agarwal, Zarine Khan, Shruti Sancheti, Ms. Abha Narain Lambha amongst many others.