Monthly Archives: August 2015

Nachiket Barve at Lakme Fashion Week W/F’15

Review

Nachiket Barve’s “Chiaroscuro” collection was dramatic, glamorous, strong yet feminine. The fabulous collection played with the concept of dark glamour and was a nod to the designer’s debut collection in 2008.

He explored strong patterns such as black roses, medieval armour, swirling swallows, x-rayed Raven feathers, creatures like Gargoyles and Gryphons. Tussar Lurex, tulle, mulberry and spun silk, organza, georgette, flat chiffon, satin, crépe, Chanderi, merino wool and cotton featured dark motifs which were enhanced using intricate thread embroidery, bead work, appliqués and cutwork.

Silhouettes were formal and flouncy as long coats, sheer dresses, cape jackets, pleated palazzo pants, minis, full circle/midi skirts, culottes, cropped tops and long maxis which came alive with colors like black and white with hints of Marsala, pine and pewter.

Gracing the ramp were designs like a caped mini, cobalt biker satin jacket, Marsala satin sheath and black boxy top with silver/black skirt, solitary Marsala jumpsuit with beaded bodice, feather embellished shift and partly sheer gown. Other glamorous creations were pleated wide pant-skirt, silver/silk mini, black shaded dress and jacket, the front zippered sheath and long sleeved gown encrusted with bead/thread work.

Kallol Datta at Lakme Fashion Week W/F’15

Review 

Kallol Datta presented a collection called “Impasse” which left the audience astonished with its interesting drapes, innovative gathers, luxurious cowls and meticulous pleats.

The designer chose for silhouettes like Pleated Baji, drop-shoulder Jokki, Half Dopo and Half Po, Drawstring Chima, Slit Deuleseu, Curved Hanbok, Foiled Paebeulig and Sculpted Goreum. Fabrics like cottons, silks, crêpes and hints of chiffons came alive with colors like bold green and pristine ivory.

Grabbing everyone’s attention were the two and three dimensional look of the outfits. Multiple layers of gathers and pleats were created using creative weaves of cottons infused with crêpe. The designer innovatively revised modern cowl cuts and drapes to create enticing design. A striking ensemble was a multiple layered cowl draped dress named Deuleseu, dazzling in ivory.

Dhruv Kapur at Lakme Fashion Week W/F’15

Review 

Dhruv Kapoor’s collection “Anarchy” talked about the idea of untamed freedom through an ingenious mélange of liberation with fashion.

The designer showed variety of contemporary silhouettes through the collection. The color palette included navy blue and bottle green blended with the right amount of tarnish shades and burnt yellow. To add more variation different lengths and cuts were introduced to the ensembles.
The women’s wear offered pencil skirts, cropped double faced scuba jackets and sweatshirt along with ankle length felt coats. A stunning look was a cropped top with the word ‘SNOB’ embellished like a metallic tag paired with striped black trousers.

Menswear look included a knee length charcoal coat over basic formals, accessorized with a formal bag. Another white scuba hooded jacket with leather facing was a great variation for men’s formal.

Arman Aiman at Lakme Fashion Week W/F’15

Review 

Aiman Agha and Armaan Randhawa explored the absence of light and the different phases of mutation that occur during eclipse and incorporated them into their collection ‘Eclipse’ through embroideries.

The silhouettes were rather minimal, primitive and brutal. The colorstory revolved around midnight blue, moss green, beige, white, and ox blood. The duo used eclipse as the prime motif of the collection. The collection was an amalgamation of hard and soft, constructed and drapes, dark and light.

Slight semi-formal sporty touch came through sweat shirt with fox and jelly fish embroidery worn with a draped beige dhoti skirt. A white bomber was teamed with olive deconstructed draped dress while a deconstructed biker jacket was worn with a draped skirt anda blue embroidered dress was paired with white shirt and navy track pants. The inspiration was seen on a midnight blue string dress was splashed with jelly fish/moon embroidery and Kantha detailing on sleeves.

Other interesting offerings were a drawstring dress with minute machining, layered over dress, belted ox blood trench coat dress and the embroidered white shirt with a prominent pleated skirt.

Arjun Saluja at Lakme Fashion Week W/F’15

Review 

With his “Abandoned” collection Arjun Saluja brought a spellbinding line of clothing.

Structured silhouette, rough edges and fabrics like wool and leather made each outfit from the collection to stand apart. Grey, beige and black colors acted as the perfect background for smudgy abstract prints. The prime detailing of the collection was zip which was functional as well as decorative.

Starting the show was a black leather zipped tunic and grey pants. Following next was zip cape dress, beige kurta with salwars, asymmetric zipped leather jacket with wide divided skirt and a grey shift with beaded detailing. Other interesting entries were asymmetric zipped frock coat, an ox blood cascading lapel cape shirt, drop crotch pant, a double breast printed trench coat, a metallic tail coat with draped pants and a floor length long sleeve gold chevron gown.

For men’s Arjun introduced pant, waistcoat and jacket, a black double lapel biker hoodie teamed with a low crotch trouser and long coats with leather pants.

Ujjawal Dubey at Lakme Fashion Week W/F’15

Review 

Ujjawal Dubey mesmerized the crowd with his spectacular collection that was fresh, raw and natural.

For the range was full of surprises with draped silhouettes a one color palette intermixed with beige tones and eye-catching stripes. The designer further established a magic in the environment with black color and sharp construction.

The contrast of light and weight was the core of the line, which was seen in the harmony of sharper cuts and skilfully draped silhouettes. Sheer tunic was worn over a shiny leather pencil skirt and a tunic with strategically placed stripes was paired with black pants with grey cuff detailing.  The collection also included Afghan pants, close-neck long tunics, straight-cut jackets and shirts stitched out of soft fabrics in shades of grey.

Ankur & Priyanka Modi at Lakme Fashion Week W/F’15

Review 

Inspired from the era when Islamic crafts and architecture prevailed, Ankur Modi and Priyanka Modi showed a whimsical collection called “Siyah”.

Luxurious fabrics like silk organza and satin were shaped into amazing silhouettes. The color pallet was dominated by black and white along with red. Adding an iridescent touch was Mukaish work that was prominent on all ensembles.

Saprkling under lights of ramp were stunning and feminine designs such as a draped tunic, Anarkali jackets, floor kissing kurtas, a princess line gown with tantalising slits, layered panelled skirts and nazakat dhotis. Minis were stylishly sophisticated with elegant sheer trails.

A body suit fitted perfectly with long luxurious skirts and a kurta with an attached dupatta was worn with salwars. An exciting entry was an asymmetric cowl pant and top. The show ended with a solitary red embroidered sari worn with a peplum blouse.

Amalraj Sengupta at Lakme Fashion Week W/F’15

Review 

Amalraj Sengupta took to an intense visual presentation as well, drawing inspiration from industrial waste and the effects of deforestation.

Textures were ingeniously created from drains, oil stains, urban decay, polluted materials and blotches of grease. Clear cuts and rigid folds along with hard molten coatings look liked industrial waste. Waterproof lining, tanned and black leather patches, quilting and layering were also incorporated in the collection.

The women’s wear featured leather patched jackets, long tunics and matching trousers. Men’s wear look included cuffed pant suit with star shaped motifs worn with a grey shirt and shorts worn over skinny pants were paired with a black artistically tailored shirt. Complementing the garments were gas and scuba masks.

Kiran & Meghna at Lakme Fashion Week W/F’15

Review 

Kiran and Meghna’s collection “Maisa” paid tribute to women of strength with creations that were edgy, bold and chic.

The silhouettes were fluid and contemporary. The fabrics including tussar and gajji silk were used to create garments with sharply cut line. The color story moved from black and white to indigo and red.

Models opened the show with a Marsala draped pant and blouse, reversible maroon and black cover, asymmetric tunic and skirt, belted coat over sheer embroidered cover and black/ white polka dotted ruffled kurta. Other exciting entries were a long sleeved midi, asymmetric side flap black dress, indigo tunic with embroidery detailing and the black/white jumpsuit.

Two saris, belted with long sleeve sheer kurta or a tunic, churidars worn under a tulle skirt with a long sleeve choli were a modern take on women’s wear.

karishma shahani khan at Lakme Fashion Week W/F’15

Review 

The designer with her splendid collection presented multiple layers of style, craft, fabrics and silhouettes. Karishma dwelled into the past for inspiration.

Contemporary silhouettes were highlighted with surface ornamentation. Zari embroidery, folding and dying techniques on fabrics like silks and cottons heightened the richness of the collection. Stripes and ornamental polkas were creatively layered with geometric floral patterns to create 2D and 3D effects. The color pallet was dominated by red, emerald and blue along with pastel hues.

Models walked in smocked waistcoat, dress, skirt, jackets with striped tunics. Every look was completed with gorgeously tasselled scarves. Green midi apron dress was paired with lavish gathered skirt while soft jackets were worn over dresses. There were cool and refreshing pleated fusion kedia tops, layered front open dresses, kurta and churidars.