Creativity is synonymous with individuality. In order to achieve this, designers look back to the past to create the future, and in doing so they create a narrative that is both inspirational and tangible.
S/S 18 continues the air of change established in autumn 2017, as intelligent attitudes to everyday dressing become an underlying message. The strength and power imbued within the creative portals of each brand’s DNA are set to evolve, with artistry and handcrafting second to none. Articulate individuality and unexpected vintage references will be key in collections which give rise to items that appeal to a one-of-a-kind sensibility.
This theme evolves from the Garden Party trend of Pre-Summer, in which femininity and eccentricity are the leitmotifs. A return to ladylike dressing is key, where a true sense of occasion dressing is expressed in overtly feminine silhouettes. Whimsical floor-skimming dresses are created in sheer fluid silks while pretty florals are sprinkled over delicate materials. Transparency emerges as an important direction, inspiring a need for elegant layering.
Key colours – pale pink, beige, white, buttercream, red, green, pastels
Key prints & patterns – garden blooms and hedgerow florals of all shapes and sizes
Key materials – silks, silk chiffons, crepe de chine, soft gabardine
Key items – elongated coats, layered dresses, ruffled blouses, high-waisted trousers, slim pencil skirts, full skirts
Modern shapes are created with architectural precision, providing a sense of sophistication. Pure silhouettes are constructed with contrary details, forming sculpted, unexpected shapes that are curvilinear and infuse tailored items. Volumes are cut, spliced and layered, providing minimalist, yet body-conscious shapes with an artisanal sensibility. The trend for raw edges becomes more tactile, offering another way to showcase individuality. Architectural shapes offer a new take on functional dressing via utility details while asymmetry is key. Elements of classical Eastern dress are reimagined, informing silhouettes with crafted layering.
Key colours – white, neutrals, brown, grey
Key prints & patterns – stripes, monotone graphic shapes, shadow stripes, polka dots
Key materials – linens, compact cottons, drill, rustic weaves, satin
Key items – wide-leg trouser, asymmetrical dresses, tunics, elongated shirts, oversized blazer, coats
This trend is inspired by art, museums and theatre, along with an eclectic mix of the tradition and opulence. The idea of extreme individuality is encapsulated within silhouettes that celebrate unique style. Continuing the influence of ‘magpie-like’ collecting, and fuelled by the eccentric creativity of Gucci and Alessandro Michele, designers run rife with references to a variety of eras as history provides inspiration. The combination of active influences, opulent architecture, royal retrospectives and historical patterns creates an individualistic narrative perfect for modern dressing.
Key colours – yellow, red, orange, vibrant pink, black, gold
Key prints & patterns – florals, hand-drawn images, historical and architectural references
Key materials – jacquards, brocades, silks, tulle, pleating, sequins, glitter
Key items – vintage-inspired pieces: jackets, skirts, dresses
Neo-Nostalgia evolves from the Resort Leisure theme of Pre-Summer in an explosion of colour. Traditional shapes are reimagined in breathtaking hues, breaking rules in clashing contrasts. This story is inspired by a strong sense of self, while melding streetwear, tailoring and active influences with a true resort flavour. The style and comfort synonymous with the easy separates of the 1990s provide inspiration, along with empowered feminine drama – think Kate Moss and the supermodels of the era. Looks are casually layered or combined with contemporary tailoring and elegant eveningwear to create a relaxed and innovative edge.
Key colours – yellow, orange, lilac/violet, blue, grey, black, red, beige
Key prints & patterns – bold graphics, polka dots, tropical/exotic floral patterns
Key materials – technical blends, sheer synthetics, cotton fleece, sparkle, denim
Key items – 1990s silhouettes, oversized blazer, camisole dresses, slim trousers/leggings, athletic-inspired trousers
As in Pre-Summer, maritime workwear meets coastal classics from ports of call both east and west, revisited with a fresh take on nautical colours such as navy, white, cream and red. Island florals and Breton and ticking stripes are re-coloured and reworked into chic casual workwear rendered in authentic natural materials of crisp cotton and jersey. Offering a romantic take on all things nautical, historical references are intricately mixed with tropical influences. Exotic plants and textures inform print and pattern, while a youthful, fun and rigorous appeal will evolve through sunny references to a 1950s sensibility.
Key colours – navy, red, deep greens, white, rust, ginger, magenta
Key prints & patterns – tropical florals, stenciled florals, Breton stripes, rainforest prints, Japanese references, dots
Key materials – cotton, silk blends, sheer layers
Key items – wide-leg trousers, sweaters, sarong-style skirts, asymmetrical dresses, boxy cut vintage-inspired jackets, cropped trousers, body-skimming dresses, beach-to-bar looks, pyjama dressing, T-shirt dressing
From the environs of Greece to Pompeii, or to mile upon mile of sweeping sand dunes burnished by the sun, cultural locales set the scene for this eclectic and spirited theme. The Neo-Voyager trend of pre-season evolves with geometrics and updated rodeo styles along with a definitive approach to layered dressing. Handcrafted and beloved pieces are collected along with elements of safari-esque items that ground the romantic ambience. A bohemian sensibility, cross-cultural references and the pioneering spirit of travellers and traders along the Silk Road influence silhouettes, prints and patterns. Underlying 1970s inspiration continues in floor-sweeping dresses in layers of breezy lightweight materials.
Key colours – soft beige, pink sand, khaki, bone, reds, yellow, navy, white, ginger
Key prints & patterns – tribal influences, Islamic geometrics, transcultural inspiration, intricate embellishments
Key materials – textured materials, lightweight silk, chiffon, cotton blends, linen, jersey
Key items – flowing bohemian dresses, safari elements, soft oversized trouser