Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar

(DAY-8)

Day 8 of the New York extravaganza kick started with designers who showcased collection that were a perfect marriage between abstract, floral and minimalistic patterns. A lot of sartorial detailing could also be seen in the figure-defining garments. From Anna Sui’s colorful wintery affair to Francesca Libertore’s sporty-chic attires, it was a perfect amalgamation of design aesthetics with modernity and innovativeness.

Malan Breton, the Taiwanese-based New Yorker, famous for his silk suits, showcased a collection that donned a strong use of color and texture in his uber-cool garments. From simple shift dresses in elegant materials to sexy-fitted evening gowns, the jaw-dropping designs were an exemplary of true American craftsmanship juxtaposed with a contemporary-modern influence. Layered in delicate tulle and dégradé silk, dresses were elegantly cut into U-necks and deep plunges. Sharp tailored suits and cap-sleeved tunics were a definite front-runner, followed by fishtail gowns and off-shoulder sheath numbers. As for the men, slim-fit double-breasted suits and tapered trousers were an absolute must-have. Printed shirts were worn with loose-cashmere cabans and velvety tuxedos. A wide array of colors were used to craft the entire collection and some of the rich pastels ranged from bright numbers like magenta-pink and tangerine to darker shades of jet black and smoky grey. Malan Breto America’s sweetheart, Michael Kors, had an abundance of exotic furs incorporated in wintry silhouettes. It would be a fur fanatic’s ultimate dream to have her hands on those ultra-cozy and soft coats, stoles and trench coats lined with fur linings. The color palate was limited to camel, mustard yellow, brown, black, teal and silver. He played with traditional winter outfits but presented a modern spin on the classics with luxurious fur. Some of the outfits that really stood out were Kendal Jenner’s teal fur coat, Karlie Kloss’s enviable metallic embellished gown. The makeup was neutral with naturally done hair. Michael Kor Moving onto Thomas Wylde, founded by British-based Paula Thomas, showcased a collection that was a combination of modern luxury with the old Rock n Roll era. Elegantly minimalistic, a lot of emphasis was given on construction and impeccable detailing of jaw-dropping garments. From knitted capes with chain detailing to print silk dresses, dapper sunglasses and leather gloves were the perfect accessories for the show. Belted coats followed embellished straight-fit dresses and body-hugging pants. Inspired by British tailoring, models walked confidently in striking suits that were luxuriously crafted from Mohair as well as rich shearling. One of the standout looks from the show was the bell-sleeved coat that was lined with fur and perfectly accessorized with matching shearling boots. The color palette was kept simple as black, white, gold and smoky lavender were used in the entire collection. Thomas Wylde Maiso Also, Bibhu Mohapatra showcased a multitude of gowns and eveningwear ensembles that seemed perfect for red carpet events. There were reds, whites, mustard black, splashes of blue and silver on the runway. The trend that really stood out in this collection was the display of Capes, currently trending this autumn/winter season. There were touches of winter exotics like fur coats and feathers. Sleek and fitted color-blocked dresses, flowing chiffon gowns in rich tones, feathered skirts covered his brilliantly executed collection. Bibhu Mohapatr Lie Sangbong’s Fall collection was a perfect amalgamation of contemporary and innovative techniques, married with architectural and heritage influences. From digital prints to richly textured numbers, garments had a certain fluidity to them that made each piece effortlessly wearable. Double-breasted overcoats were crafted from super authentic fabrics like extravagant shearling and cashmere, followed by exaggerated shirt collars and form-fitting tunics. Cashmere cardigans with daring plunges were paired with leather pencil skirts and thigh-high boots. Abstract prints were used in nearly every garment and one of the standout pieces was a Japanese-inspired coat that literally boasted a “furry affair”. The color palette consisted of a wide array of solid pastels ranging from blood red and camel to classics like black and white. Lie Sangbon American, Leanne Marshall showcased a risqué collection that possessed femininity and grace as women walked with dramatic eye makeup, raccoon-eyes as though weeping in sorrow. Their heads were decked in olive wreath bands. The bold designer showcased highly sheer bias-cut gowns in shades of black, white, midnight blue, red and rust. With feminine curves all on display, the collection possessed raw beauty of the female body. Beneath all the sheer were embellished undergarments complementing the gowns. The collection had an ethereal appeal, as garments fit for Aphrodite, descended on the runway. Leanne Marshal Adding onto the exuberance was Francesca Libertore, whose collection was a sporty-chic version of the American rock ‘n’ roll era. Effortless and casually chic, a lot of attention was paid in designing the uber-cool garments with rich silhouettes. Short sleeveless fur coats were paired with delicate silk hot pants, followed by deep plunging blouses and abstract-print shirts. Tapered trousers were aptly matched with knitted jerseys that had leather patchwork done on them.  Long shirtdresses with intricate abstract-cutwork could be seen paired with pointy metallic shoes. One of the main pointers from the collection was the extra-large circular star pattern that was adorned onto oversized circular clutches and casual duffle bags. The color palette was infused with bold pastels like ruby red, black, silver and cobalt blue with hints of lemon yellow and burgundy. Francesca Liberator Erin Featherstone’s collection proved that floral prints need not always be meant for summer. It featured colors like the classic black and white, deep red, bright yellow and teal on rich smooth fabrics with a sense of oriental appeal. The floral fantasy shone in outfits like a poncho with 3 D flowers, a sheer skirt, baby doll skirts and dresses. Also inspired by the classics, she showcased a floral print silk dress with wing-tip collars and sheer sleeves. The looks were accessorized with strappy sandals. Erin Fethersto Then came Anna Sui, a true trendsetter for vintage styles, whose latest collection was a rich portrayal of cultural obsessions and a drive to showcase exuberant garments. As models were drenched in bright subtle pastels ranging from olive green, mustard, violet, deep blue, tangerine and bottle green; one could not get their eyes off the richly fur crafted garments that had an Oriental appeal to them. Long overcoats with patch pockets were worn under textured blouses and crepe harem pants. Puffed up blouses with intricate lacework were worn over sleeveless fur jackets. A lot of fishnet and floral embroidery could be seen on high waisted skirts that were boldly accessorized with textured suede belts. As the geometric zigzag pattern was a definitely catchy number, suede boots with intricate embroidery did not disappoint. Anna Su Next in the line-up was Michael America who showcased some stunning pieces that took you back to the vintage days but with a modern vibe to it. From a metallic floor length pleated floral gown, a button-down short dress with a peter-pan collar to a leather-esqe jacket with shawl lapel and matching pants, the garments showcased were a throwback to the previous decades of popular fashion. Michael Americ Iijin,the Hong-Kong based label, under the creative direction of Cassian Lau, showcased a collection that brought the designers fine aesthetics and artistic flair into the limelight. From intricately sequined plunging dresses to beautifully crafted plaid coats, a lot of striped suits and bandage blouses gave a ‘luxe’ effect to the entire collection. Slouchy cashmere cardigans and patent leather tops were matched with extravagant fur coats and bright ankle-length sneakers. Tweed skirts and high-slit harem pants could be seen worn with classic leather bombers. For men, elegant sartorial garments like woolen suits and pea coats made an absolute style statement on the fashion runway. The color palette included minimalistic pastels like black, white and checkered grey with hints of red, brown and deep blue. Iiji Day 8 ended on a glitzy note with Boss by Jason Wu who showcased a sleek, sharp and precise look with metallic undertones. The color scheme was restricted to grey, blue, tangerine and black. Form fitted dresses in solid colors’, a strapless dress with matching leather gloves and boots, a striped double-breasted jacket with knee-length skirt were some of the looks showcased by the new designer who took over the label a year ago. The hemlines displayed a subtle hint of the 1940s around the time of the Industrial Revolution.