Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar

(DAY – 2)

While the opening day saw some of fashion’s upcoming brilliance, on the contrary Day 2 had industry big wigsshowcasing a wide range of ultra-feminine garments, it had everything from floral ruffles , embellished gold numbers followed by bold plaid patterns and minimalistic cutwork done on richly defined garments. From Fay’s bold use of English plaid patterns to Francesco Scognamigilio’s subtle floral frenzies, it was a perfect amalgamation between artisanal craftsmanship and authentic design aesthetics.

The day began with ChiccaLualdi, the Italian designer’s Fall collection was all about precision, be it through fine-tailored garments or clean minimal cuts. With gilded gold Baroque interiors, models swayed the runway wearing coherently feminine garments apt for a modern working woman. Asymmetrical dresses and slouchy knitted tunics were worn under double-breasted suede coats crafted from fine suede and textured wool. Halter-neck numbers and plunging A-lines were the frontrunners as each look was smartly paired with crinkled suede boots and colorful headbands. U-shaped fur jackets were matched with high-waisted tapered trousers, cresting the perfect tailored look. Also notched coat dresses were belted to perfection and appliquéd with overdoses of extravagant mink, making the perfect outerwear garment for the next season. Models were drenched in bold pastels of burgundy, deep blue, off-white, shimmery olive and champagne with hints of khaki and black.

Chicca Luald

Moving on, Simonetta Ravizza’scollection was about modern wintry sophistication with a casual yet edgy vibe. The garments stood for opulence as shearling, lamb-skin leather and embellished pieces made their debut on the runway. The colour palette were in shades of cobalt blue, cream, white, back, wine and grey. From lustrous leather ensembles to highly-embellished pieces, the collection had a lustrous appeal. It mainly comprised of an array of coats ranging from animal print with shearling collars, luxurious knee-length fur coats, and ribbed shearling coats in an assortment of colours to portray the opulence in choice of fabric. Some outfits donned by models had rocker-chic attitude. A heavily embellished matching two-piece, skirt and shirt-dress with leather and shearling took the looks a notch higher.  Towards the end of the collection, the designer also showcased a few outfits that were ideal for polar weather. Men and women walked down in black and white parkas with tights and fur-lined boots.

Simonetta Ravizz

The Italian heritage brand, under the creative direction of Sara CavazzaFacchini, Genny showcased a collection that was all about extreme feminity, precision in tailoring and high-quality garments. Having previously worked with Versace, models walked in impeccable body-hugging garments that were apt for any red-carpet event. Plunging tailored suits were matched with slim-fit trousers and cap-sleeved LBD’s were an instant must-want. Glitzy jumpsuits were adorned with intricate embroidery and lacework as look was paired with strappy suede sandals. Backless gowns and A-line dresses had uniformity, as geometrical patterns were super-imposed onto the expensive fabrics. A perfect marriage between artwork and sexy silhouettes, off-shoulder numbers and shimmery kaftans were crafted to perfection with intense hand-placed embellishments. A lot of rich velvet was used to create the modern-luxe outfits as the color palette consisted of subtle pastels like peach, dusty grey, lemon yellow and black with hints of gilded gold.

Genn

Stella Jean’s collection was a quirky mix of prints and colours. The silhouettes were loose and baggy, the garments had a bohemian touch to it. The collection featured a range of trenches which had plaid, stripes, abstract and solid colours as variety. Skirts differed from long to short; fitted to A-line. There was a vintage reflection in some of the pieces like an A-line peter-pan collared dress with stripes. Filigree motifs were present in brightly colored skirts. The looks were accessorized with shades while mid-length socks with boat shoes and strappy sandals.

Stella Jea

Luisa Beccaria’s AW collection was a perfect blend between old Renaissance and modern romanticism, as smoky pastels like steel grey, jet black, imperial blue and turquoise green were combined with light and subtle tones of mauve, gold and beige. From exaggerated ruffle collars to exquisite hemlines, a lot of attention was paid to the impeccable silhouettes gilded with macramé lace and gold brocade. Layered crepe blouses were paired with flared woolen trousers, followed by textured jumpsuits and V-neck dresses. Plunging gowns and strapless puffed-up numbers were appliquéd with delicate floral embellishments as each look was accessorized with pointy pumps and slouchy hats. Double-breasted coats in tweed were followed by mink-lined Chesterfields and lacy floor-length numbers. Banded peplum dresses were corseted at the waist and a lot of layering could be seen on ball gowns, crafted from extravagant tulle and delicate silk. Boat-neck blouses were embroidered with floral artwork as each piece was matched with banded tapered trousers.

Luisa Beccari

Moving on, Gucci saw some impeccably dressed women in absolute classic Italian flavours. The new creative Director, Alessandro Michele showcased a range of looks where some possessed androgynous appeal. While masculine regular-fit suits in florals and solid shades like olive green and charcoal grey were showcased, at the same time there were feminine silhouettes as women wore sheer body-fitting dresses some of which had floral prints and were pleated. The designer showcased contrast between edgy futuristic elements with traditional silhouettes as seen in the fitted A-line dress with a metallic top and pleated bottom with shearling sleeve. There was also a military essence in the collection as the double-breasted fur sleeved coat and double-breasted military coat paired with regular-fit pants. Berets were used to accessorize the sophisticated looks.

Gucc

The outerwear brand, Fay, under the design direction of Italian duo TommasoAquilano and Roberto Rimondi, presented a collection that was very modern and incredibly English in every way possible. A lot of plaided checks and animal prints were camouflaged onto the beautifully structured garments. From double-breasted Chesterfields to mandarin-collared overcoats, turtleneck cardigans were matched with high-waist skirts and patent lace-ups. Short pea coats and tunic dresses were worn under buttoned-down kilts and degrade-lace stockings. Boldly knitted cardigans with a built-up collar were matched with crinkled lambskin boots plaid overcoats were another hot trendsetter. Some of the standout accessories from the show were the fringed-tassel backpacks crafted from suede, followed by cashmere scarves emblazoned with the very British plaid pattern. Models were enveloped in a toned-down color palette that consisted of bold pastels like navy blue, steel grey, khaki, dusty pink and subtle beige.

Fa

The renowned designer Alberta Ferretti’s inspirations revolved around historical elements. Victorian elements were seen throughout the collection. Puffed sleeves and Ruff collars added a sense of grace and charm. The colour palette of this collection comprised of colours like black, white, gold, red and orange. From intricate baroque details on a black dress to a sleeveless short embellished dress with gold details, the collection resonated grandeur. Exotic fox-fur was also showcased in form-fitting coats and sheer tops with gold details. Some of the outfits that really stood out in this collection were: a floral peplum top with a long skirt, the black cape with a shearling lining with floral details to name a few. These were accessorized with knee-high suede boots.

Alberta Ferrett

Under the design direction of Alessandro Dell’Acqua, N°21, the Italian luxury brand, presented a collection that emphasized on the eccentric female silhouette by the usage of contrasting fabrics like knitwear and delicate sheer. Sensual and utterly modern, the brand’s heritage concept was portrayed through involvement of an intelligent design aesthetic. Oversized topcoats were crafted from a variety of fabrics like rich tweed and textured gold. A lot of animal fur was used to define garments that radiated an uber-cool sensuality about the brand’s persona. Peter Pan-collared dresses and delicately ruffled chiffon numbers were accessorized with patent leather boots and pointy brogues. Short duffle coats and embellished high-slit skirts were matched perfectly with asymmetrical structured coats and embroidered box clutches. The color palette ranged from subtle tones of beige and baby pinkto deep hues of steel, black and gilded gold.

N°2

Fausto Puglisi’scollection entailed funky ensembles with an abundance of bold-bright colours like pink, yellow, green and blue. The designer showcased edgy ensembles like an all-black outfit with gold embellishments and leather lace-ups, a funky checked and zebra print dress with knee-length zebra print boots. A recurring star motif was present in the collection. The tie and dye denim top and bottoms, the embellished tube with leather pants and a shirt worn over a checked top oozed 90s’ fashion and modern street style as leather, denims and checks took over. Some of the looks were accessorized with chunky chains and charms.

Fausto Puglis

Francesco Scognamigilio’s Fall collection was all about fluidity juxtaposed onto subtle and airy garments. A rich opulence between bold lines and exquisite shapes, each outfit brought about a sense of sensuality that can be resonated with a contemporary woman. A vivid sartorial elegance could be seen on garments that ranged from body-hugging numbers to airy and light pieces. Sensual LBD’s and wrap-around tunics were belted to perfection and accessorized with statement strappy sandals. Nude floor-sweeping gowns consisted of intense paneling done with intricate lace embroideries and floral motifs. Textured velvety overcoats were worn over ruffled blouses and slim-fit trousers. Bell-shaped dresses and zippered tunics were imprinted with huge evideffint floral motifs that brought about a girly look within every garment. Slouchy overcoats and turtleneck cardigans were crafted from super authentic fabrics like cashmere and Mohair, one of the standout pieces being a nude gown appliqued with thousands of tulle flowers. Models were drenched in a bold color palette that consisted of pastels like baby pink, off-white, deep peach and of course… the classic black.

Francesco Scognamigli

Day 2 at MFW AW’2015-2016 ended with Phillip Plein’ssporty-luxe and edgy collection. It was a classic toned collection set in black and white. An army of women walked down wearing Varsity-inspired outfits made with luxuriously soft fur ranging from dresses, tops and jackets with ‘#Plein’ on them. Glossy leather ensembles made their debut on the runway in jackets, textured pants and curve-hugging tops. Fur was a huge element in his collection as models donned fluffy fur dresses with wide belts which truly stood out in the collection. Embellished leather studs on ensembles and shoes further added to the edgy looks.

Philipp Plei