Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar

(DAY – 3)

Day 3 of British high fashion continued as designers showcased a wide array of feminine silhouettes that ranged from bright floral ecstasies to toned-down minimalistic designs. From Preen’s lacey affairs to Mary Katranzou’s girly abstract prints, this day was a perfect combination of digital design aesthetics with true heritage craftsmanship. As black and suede were frontrunners, graphic and floral frenzies perfectly complimented each creation.

First in the lineup was, Preen, whose collection was based on asymmetric detailing and an extreme attention to drapes. Sexy body shapes and bold silhouettes emerged from the simplest of shapes and patterns. Frilled tunics and cropped tops were printed to perfection. Harem pants were worn over extra-large cabans with notched as well as shawl lapels. Plunging blouses were followed by A-line skirts and a lot of floral embroidery was appliquéd onto figure-defining garments. Pointy patent brogues and slouchy buttoned hats were the perfect accessory match as models drenched into dark pastels like royal blue, black, camel and off-white.

Preen

Mulberry delivered refined elegance on the runway as they took inspiration from the Georgian era that possessed architectural elements from the Rococo and Neo-Classical era. They showcased a great deal of craftsmanship in terms of garment fabrications. The filigree motif was showcased in the collection. The colour scheme was minimal as black, grey, bubble-gum pink made their appearance on the runway. The Roxette bag accessorized the warm and wintry look. A range of fabrics from a fleece coat, a soft and fluffy Alpaca sweater, leather definitely cozied up the London weather.

Mulberr

Moving onto Margaret Howell,whose collection focused mainly on simple tailored garments and minimalistic standout silhouettes. Carefully knitted bow-neck cardigans were paired with belted woolen trousers and patent shoes. Taking inspiration from authentic bespoke tailoring; turtleneck cutout cardigans were matched with striped trousers and long high-waisted skirts. Straight-fit LBD’s were worn over woolen trenches and accessorized with fringe scarves. With a lot of attention to detail, models were covered in simple bold colors that ranged from navy blue, classic black to chocolate brown and deep ombré.

Margaret Howel

Claire Barrow’s collection was called ‘High Flyers’. Previously known for her hand-painted leather pieces showcased at Fashion East three years ago, this season she opted for screen-printed leather. These were paired with bandeau tops, dresses and pajama trousers. The collection comprised with a lot of bright shades like red, sandy yellow, light blue along with black. Garments showcased had a sense of airiness and freedom to them.

Claire Barro

Georgian-based British designer, David Koma showcased a collection that was highly acclaimed for its sculptural craftsmanship and embodiment of large evideffent sequins. Bell-sleeved bodysuits and A-line skirts were the frontrunners of this futuristic show. Turtleneck tunics were banded as well as belted to the waist, followed by mandarin-collared jackets. Long overcoats and plunging jumpsuits had leather patch pockets as each look was accessorized with V-slit cutout boots. Frilled leather dresses and monochromatic numbers had intricate meshwork done on them. Striped cashmere cardigans were paired with high-waist skirts that were donned with intricate glitzy sequins. The color palette consisted of bold colors such as royal blue, jet-black, beige and smoky orange with hints of white and silver.

David Kom

Aspinal of London paired up with Être Cécile, brand that stands for fashionable women. The result was a showcase of some great bags that would stand ideal for the Autumn/Winter’15 runway. There was a bold use of contrasting colors, plaid print and graphics. Animal hyde like calf leather and soft-Napa leather with the plaid print were used.

Aspinal of Londo

Next up was Issa, who showcased a collection that is known for its vibrant and colorful designs, apt to fit a glamorous wardrobe. A lot of texture and uni-linear patterns were used to define the utterly feminine garments. Checkered overcoats with exaggerated lapels were paired with slim-fit flared trousers and strappy patent boots. Frilled blouses and asymmetric floral dresses were the frontrunners of this uber-cool collection, followed by plunging jumpsuits and figure defining dresses. Angel-sleeved tunics were quilted to perfection and paired with an extravagant metal belt, followed by halter-neck gowns and strapless numbers. The designer used an interesting array of colors and some of the standouts were cobalt blue, tangerine, dusty grey and smoky black.

Iss

Matthew Williamson’s collection had a 1980’s bohemian-luxe feel as a range of garments in feminine prints were inspired by the concept of zodiac signs and florals. The designer stuck to his signature elements like embroidery and beads with silhouettes of the 1970s’.The colour palate saw lots of teal, pinks, lilacs and mustards. The looks were accessorized with matching fringed boots. Shearling was generously used from coats, collars to the sleeves for a completely luxurious look. From silk embellished dresses, chiffon-silk thigh-slit outfits, animal-print jumpsuits, the collection possessed an exotic appeal with its prints and colours.

Matthew Williamso

Moving onto to Sophia Webster, who showcased a collection that was a ‘galaxy-themed’ version of her exquisite design aesthetics. Strappy peep-toe sandals were crafted from rich leather and contained an interesting array of digital cutout patterns. Padded leather boots were hand-painted and made from super-authentic fabrics like grainy calfskin and dusty suede. Sleek sandals had exaggerated bow detailing and pointy boots were adorned with metallic butterflies. Patent pumps contained intricate circular sequins and pop-art clutches were an absolute stunner.

Sophia Webste

Temperley London’s collection had a nomadic and flowy appeal with a colour palate ranging from neutrals like white, cream, black to bright colours like blues and mustard yellow to metallic in gold, silver and wine. The designer showcased a lot of versatility from floral embroidery on velvet and sheer fabric, animal prints in jacquard, bold geometric prints to embellished dresses. It also featured pants like harem pants and regular-fit pants paired with animal skin-textured jackets and long tops. The makeup was kept naked with pink-tinted lips.

Temperley Londo

Amanda Wakeley showcased a collection that consisted of impeccable tailored pieces and well knitted minimalistic garments. Spangle column dresses with gold chain work were followed by slouchy zipper jackets and tapered harem pants. Form-fitting transparent jumpsuits and spaghetti LBD’s were a definite must-have for every fashion enthusiast. Slouchy cashmere cardigans and bright-colored overcoats were matched with skinny leather pants and suede boots. Also, each model carried an interesting selection of handbags that were crafted from super-authentic fabrics like grainy suede, glossy patent leather and exotic crocodile. The collection was centered around toned-down pastel of steel grey, tangerine, ruby red, smoky black and navy blue.

Amanda Wakele

Next in the lineup was Topshop, who kept it cozy as models walked down in snug shearling coats and leather jackets. The collection had a retro revival with Eighties feel. From floral dresses with knee-length boots, black mini velvet dresses, taupe vinyl flared pants and coats, plaid print on skirts and jackets it definitely was a throwback to the good-old charm. The colour palate was white, taupe, gold, cream and ivory.

Topshop

Japanese-based designer, Toga’s Fall collection was based on chic military styles combined with rich heritage influences. The designer had used a rich array of colors that ranged from dark tones like black, deep blue and crystal white to lighter shades like subtle beige and hot pink. Textured overcoats were worn over turtleneck cardigans and paired with extra-large belts and transparent silk trousers. Straight-fit tunics had intricate lacework done on them as each look was paired with fur ponchos and suede sling bags. Large double-breasted overcoats were worn over pleated shirt dresses and gingham-print trousers. Shearling coats were belted to perfection as trousers had evident lacework done at the bottom. Floral furry motifs were emblazoned on nearly each and every garment as models strutted the ramp wearing velvet brogues and metallic loafers.

Tog

British brand, Belstaff presented cozy and comfortable outfits which were inspired by Amelia Earhart & Amy Johnson. Models showcased the collection alongside military parachutes. Garments incorporated fur and woollen bouclé to create chic yet simple outerwear. Luxuriously soft fabrics like shearling as shown in the winter coats and jacket linings featured on the runway. There was a taste of androgyny as it combined soft and coz fabrics to give a feminine appeal but at the same time it showcased masculine silhouettes with angular cuts. The colour palate was set in neutral tones of white, black and grey.

Belstaf

Moving onto, Paul Smith, known for his contemporary-modern approach; showcased a collection that consisted of desirably edgy garments; focusing on traditional craftsmanship. With a perfect synchronization between pattern and color, each garment was definite must-have for the next season. Long double-breasted Chesterfields and flowy jackets were matched with loose-fitted woolen trousers. Shearling cabans and tailored tuxedos were paired with the designer’s signature polka-dotted pants as well as scarves. Body-hugging LBD’s and buttoned-down skirts were matched with silk blouses and bright duffle coats. Nearly each garment was evidently adorned with leather patch-pockets and accessorized with English Darby shoes. With a bespoke approach to clothing his garment were enveloped in a wide array of pastels ranging from deep maroon, baby pink, light mustard to jet black and faded beige.

Paul Smit

Pringle of Scotland celebrated 200 years of fashion with a collection that displayed its identity in modern mannerisms. The colour palate was wintry and neutral in shades of black, white, cream and grey.  The designer showcased a variety of chunky knits across low-waist argyle skirt, argyle knit sweaters with fur incorporated into them, cable-knit skirts. Innovatively, shreds of mink fur were also incorporated onto the chunky knits, which perfectly blended traditional winter wear with modernity.

Pringle of Scotlan

Vivienne Westwood Red Label brought ‘modern punk’ into the limelight of fashion and showcased her accessible line where garments as well as the makeup were “out-of-the-box”. Slouchy overcoats in tweed and animal print were paired with stripy-multicolored cardigans and woolen three-fourth trousers. Textured tunics with ruffled collars were paired with zigzag short skirts and colored stockings. Plunging Boho dresses and lacy tulle gowns followed double-breasted tailored suits. Long LBD’s and printed off-shoulder numbers had extra flare and exaggerated shoulders. With a very artisanal approach to the whole collection, loads of chunky jewelry and Goth makeup complimented each and every look. Models were enveloped in bright colors like baby pink, steel grey, deep orange, lemon yellow, light olive and navy blue.

Vivienne Westwood Red Labe

Moving onto to Greek designer, Mary Katranzou, who showcased a collection that was an ode to digital craftsmanship and feminine silhouettes. As models walked on a pink foamy runway, the collection was a perfect amalgamation of girly garments with architectural heritage. Textured tops and knitted tunics were paired perfectly with mermaid skirts, plunging in the middle. Corseted bodices and printed duffle coats were luxuriously wrapped in shearling and matched with wrap-up skirts and suede clogs. Embroidered shirts with wing-tip collars were accessorized with geometric belts and box clutches. Straight-fit dresses were intricately crafted and form-fitting bodysuits made a classic style statement. The designer used a vivid color palette that consisted of bright colors like pink, ruby rouge, lemon yellow, aubergine, velvety olive, steel grey, sky blue and deep burgundy.

Mary Katrantzo

Day 3 ended with Scottish designer, Jonathan Saunders, whose collection was all about creative abstract ideas incorporated on modern glitzy garments. Having worked previously with labels like Emilio Pucci and Christian Lacroix, there was a sense of uniformity could be seen on the body hugging dresses that were frilled from the bottom and emblazoned with flowy graphic prints. Clean and simple silhouettes, yet edgy and feminine; each model walked in dapper square-cut sunglasses and crinkled leather boots. Strappy tube dresses and pleated A-lines were followed by textured cashmere cardigans and tapered form-fitting trousers. Sheer translucent blouses were matched with high-waist skirts and followed by deep V-necked baby dolls. A lot of color could be seen throughout the collection and some of the bold pastels included deep lavender, dusky red, forest green, cobalt blue, baby pink, jet black and crystal white.

Jonathan Saunder