Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar
(DAY – 1)
As the London fashion mania kick started with some quirk and chic aura, Day 1 witnessed some of the very famous names in British fashion who showcased a breathtaking array of wintery garments that will be a sure shot must-have for the forthcoming season. From Bora Aksu’s feminine seduction to PPQ’s Goth-inspired creations, this day saw a more relaxed version of RTW garments with plaid and black as the frontrunners.
J. JS Lee, Korean-based designer showcased a collection that was sleek and androgynous in every way possible. As models were enveloped in a minimalistic color palette of black, white, baby pink and olive; one could not help notice the sheer simplicity portrayed in every garment. Turtle necked knitted cashmere cardigans were worn with shearling-lined jackets and pleated straight-fit dresses were accessorized with patent brogues. With a faux-fringe wig, models walked in plunging blouses worn under slim-fit trousers. Tweed coats and slouchy pantsuits were extravagantly lined with fur to give the whole look a very ‘modern-luxe’ appeal.
Next on the move was, Manuel Facchini, the Italian-origin designer presented a collection with women looking sleek, sharp and edgy in his ensembles. The collection was an intermingling of the gothic aesthetic matched with the modern sporty appeal. Set in the classic monochrome palate of black and white, the designer designed outfits with focus on edgy ensembles that reflected a futuristic outlook. The outfits incorporated geometric prints, gothic prints and symmetrical lines that often gave a visual illusion. From fitted dresses below the knee, short baby doll-dresses, textured leather jackets paired with printed-pants and pleated skirts, the designer offered a variety of hemlines.
Eudon Choi’s red color-blocking striped backdrop, the Korean-based British designer presented a collection that as wearable, modern yet edgy in every way possible. Double-breasted leather jackets were accessorized with blanket-fringed scarves and oversized weatherproof jackets were worn beneath form-fitting flared pants. High-slit V-neck cardigans were buttoned-down to perfection and worn over body conscious jumpsuits with subtle patchwork. Also, a lot of metallic leather was used to craft color blocked garments that included A-lined one-piece dresses and broad U-necked body suits. Lastly, the heritage jackets had been adorned with Oriental-based floral prints as the whole collection centered around subtle pastels of gold, steel grey, ombré, navy blue and khaki.
Moving on,Wizard of Oz inspired Shrimps’ collection; the designer had an extravaganza of glitter and faux-fur on the runway with sculptures covered with blue glitter. Apart from the shades like terracotta and emerald green that had the touch of the 1970s’ era, diamante buttons and pointed-toe boots further accentuated the vintage look. Apart from the classic plaid print, the designer also incorporated her signature ‘face’ prints onto her coats and cardigans. The collection mainly comprised of pleated plaid skirts, faux-fur coats and collars with matching fur-lined shoes.
Next was Bora Aksu whose collection had a distinct signature, seductively romantic; each garment was full of intrigue and elegance. Leather ponchos with bold knits could be seen worn with Peter Pan-collared shirts and wrap-up skirts. Keyhole one-pieced dresses were belted and flared to the waist and intricately textured beauties followed this. A lot of lacework and cutwork could be seen done on monochromatic numbers with puffed-up shoulders and a lot of tulle was used to define an utterly feminine silhouette. With the locks parted on one side and suede boots worn as the perfect accessory, models were drenched in a subtle color palette that included soft pastels like almond, pink, ink, lavender, ochre and smoky black.
Next was, Daks whose collection showcased bold and powerful looks in a limited array of colors like red, black, white and red. Diverse range of looks depicted modern power-dressing on the runway from red leather textured jackets paired with a regular-fit plaid pants, matching color-blocked ensembles to a sleek black dress with frontal zips and quilted leather jackets with striped pants were some of the most apt examples to depict the same.These were accessorized with matching leggings, hats, boots and gloves. Overall, the collection combined some classic designs with a modern twist.
Moving on, FELDER FELDER showcased a collection that was elegant, cool and effortless in every way possible. With a strong focus on music, the collection was inspired by the 70’s ‘rock n roll’ era of fashion. Richly defined garments, models walked in A-line dresses and one-piece numbers that were laced and sequined to perfection. The bold use of metallic made the collection edgy and halter-neck gowns, followed by fitted jackets were a definite frontrunner. Printed chiffon dresses with a daring plunge line contained frilled corset, giving the whole collection a Boho twist. Banded body suits and transparent silk blouses were comfortably accessorized with peep-toe platform heels that were crafted from rich patent leather, with slouchy fur coats being a definite must-want. The color palette included bold pastels like copper, peacock green, maroon, chocolate brown and smoky black.
Next was, Jean Pierre Braganza who showcased some futuristic and edgy ensembles in terms of the cuts and silhouettes. A range of ensembles in shearling, leather and chunky knits were showcased. Exaggerated shoulders on fitted outfits gave subtle hints of masculinity and strength. The designer played a lot around leather accessories such as chokers, bands and cutwork boots. The color palate mainly comprised of deep red, wine, black, white and cream.
The British based designers, Teatum Jones showcased a collection that witnessed striking tailoring, followed by bold and exquisite fabrics. With their signature statement coats and shirtdresses, the collection had a certain feminine as well as a fluid appeal to it. Embellished V-neck dresses were followed by double-breasted coats with patched leather and checkered gingham. A lot of attention was given to the cuts and craftsmanship of each and every garment as evident laser cuts adorned figure-defining clothes. Deep V-neck banded blouses were frilled and embellished to perfection, followed by textured pencil pants. A lot of two-toned dresses were crafted from exotic snakeskin and textured pastel patterns. For the perfect footwear trend models wore metallic espadrilles and were enveloped in bold pastels like black, cobalt blue, off-white and rose pink.
Next in line was Fyodor Golanwho showcased a modern quirky-sport appeal. The garments showcased had floral motifs like lotus and orchids, whimsical elements like unicorns, and rainbows. It also had a hint of the 1970s’ decade with polka dots, metallic ensembles and details on ensembles. Neon green detail as shown in gloves, collars and pockets stood out in this whimsical collection presented by the designer-duo.
Paul Costelloe’s collection had a strong sense of style and aesthetic appeal, the highly acclaimed British designer showcased a collection a modernized version of the brand’s design heritage. Textured tops with bell-shaped sleeves were extensively layered and matched with form-fitting pencil skirts. With frilled collars and exaggerated hemlines ball gowns were corseted to the waist and followed by a bold inclusion of shawl as well as notched lapels. A-lined dresses and tweed overcoats had a rich fur collar and nearly each model wore stockings with lace-up boots. Bringing back the quirky Goth fashion, coat dresses with puffed-up sleeves and extra bold knits were an absolute stunner. The color palette contained a rich array of bright infusions that ranged from burgundy, light mustard and tangerine to subtle beige, black and chestnut green.
Next was Sass &Bide, whose collection circled around colors like black and metallic hues like gold and silver. The women of Sass & Bide stood for confidence, ultra-glamorous women of contemporary times. The garments were embellished in metallic shades and paired with a variety of materials like leather, sheer fabric and luxurious shearling. From a two-piece gold outfit paired with a leather jacket to a plunge-neck dress with gold embellishment, the garments showcased were very rocker-chic. The collection also incorporated a mini-robot into their ensembles that added to a fun yet edgy look.
Moving on was Molly Goddard whose collection hugely focused on traditional handcrafted techniques like pleating and crocheting. With a sense of playfulness and fragility, the dainty-like garments took every fashion enthusiast on a nostalgic toll. Focusing on slouchy silhouettes, model wore cashmere cardigans with frilled tulle skirts that were textured and crushed at the waist. Strapless A-line dresses were followed by boat neck numbers and bodycon one-pieces. Straight-fit tunic dresses were perfectly paired with black stockings and buckled brogues. The color palette included warm tones of baby pink, mustard, black and smoky grey.
Next in the lineup was Fashion East, whose collection showcased three designers namely Caitlin Price, Ed Marler, and Mary Benson with their preferred design aesthetic. Caitlin Price presented a collection that showcased street style in luxurious fabrics. From a fuchsia satin tracksuit appliquéd with rosettes. This particular technique shone through the rest of her garments, from jackets, dresses with models in kiss-curls. The collection presented by Ed Marler seemed rather costume-like with a deliberate trash-glamour appeal. Amidst the stage, which was set in a sitting room of the Fifties and the Sixties, models donned the outfits like a polka-dotted dressing gown, a shearling coat, silk track-pants etc. Mary Benson collection revolved around the currently most-trending decade of fashion, the 70s’.It was the static presentation, which further added to a dramatic effect. The collection comprised of form-fitting asymmetrical dresses, flared pants embellished with coins and metallic detail and baby-doll halter-neck dresses to name a few.
Moving on, Le Kilthad Scottish heritage and a desire to play with modern style, Samantha McCoach presented a collection that was chic and traditional in every way possible. The bespoke tartan check could be seen incorporated on nearly each and every garment that ranged from high-waited wrap-up skirts to long pleated numbers. V-neck cardigans and slouchy t-shirts were followed by fitted jackets and cropped blouses. To perfectly accessorize each and every look, models wore bob hats and fringed leather loafers. The color palette included simple pastels like cobalt blue, steel grey, mustard, black and white.
The last batch of students, from Central Saint Martins presented a spectacular show that invoked a sense of optimism for the future of fashion. The collections represented a very strong view on fashion. Thesus Bucks was inspired by his mother’s garden. Beth Postle’s collection was inspired by Jean Dubuffe through pops of bold color on white ensembles. Hayley Grundmann’s showcase combined both trash and luxury to give a modern look. These were just some of the many great showcases by the talented youth. This is a great platform for showcasing fresh talent in an otherwise ‘saturated’ industry.
Day 1 ended with PPQ founded by Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker, thatwere inspired by the Goth and pop-chic culture of the 80’s musical era. With extravagant makeup and an uptight hairdo, models boldly strutted the runway wearing frilled blouses with puffed-up sleeves, followed by fitted pencil short skirts. Belted coats with a shearling trim were worn over keyhole LBD’s and strapless numbers. Tunic dresses with shirt collars were followed by laced jumpsuits and leather body-hugging pants. Halter neck column dresses were crafted from superfine silk and contained an exaggerated peplum-style waist. One of the absolute standouts from the show was the form-fitting asymmetric gown with a transparent bodice and embellished floor-length trail.
