Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Autumn Winter 2018 men’s collection, at Università Bocconi in Milan by Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori,offering a collection where formal merges with the informal in a sublime snowy scenario.
Sartori keeps perfecting the path he has defined for Ermenegildo Zegna since his arrival at the creative helm, devising a modular wardrobe that seamlessly fuses sports and tailoring, indoors and outdoors, keeping the Zegna Couture quest for excellence as a frame.
The silhouette is sharp yet soft. Geometric necklines and the carved ‘n curved lapels characterize the upper part of the body. The sense of precise ease is captured in the new ‘one 1/2 breasted’ construction: halfway between single and double breasted, it is used for jackets as well as coats with a nonchalant élan. Traditional categories are mixed up and reshuffled. The duvet takes the form of a wool anorak, knitwear doubles as outerwear, while matching blousons and trousers are a rapid substitute for the suit. Painstaking intarsia draw details such as pockets directly onto the fabric: an expression of virtuoso pragmatism that carries in the jacquard fabric. Neckties make an unexpected appearance, worn as double-knot scarves. Throughout, adjustable hems give trousers decisive practicality, underlined by the sturdy mountain boots.
Fabrics are precious and supple: cashmere jacquard, compact mohair, brushed alpaca, wool and cotton corduroy. For the first time, even the brighter tones are present on the new Oasi Cashmere, which features an innovative sustainable dyeing process exclusively developed by LanificioZegna, where colors are obtained only from natural elements such as flowers, herbs, wood, leaves and roots, reflecting the principles and values of the OasiZegna. Also, the color palette is inspired by the Oasis’s environment: a mix of neutral tones of edelweiss white, pebble grey, birch beige with notes of vicuña, bulb red, pine green and dashes of crocus purple, chanterelle yellow, azalea orange.
