Central Saint Martin’s MA Fashion has an international profile with an unrivalled record for sending the best professional talent into the international fashion industry. Alumni include Alexander McQueen, Ann-Sofie Back Atelje, Charles Jeffrey, Christopher Kane, Craig Green, Faustine Steinmetz, Halpern, Kiko Kostadinov, Kim Jones, Jonathan Saunders, Simone Rocha and many others.
There 19 graduates’ collection at London fashion week AW18, was incredibly diverse, some focussing more on concept whilst others evidenced a clear affection for traditional craftsmanship and material processes. Constantly referenced was the intersection of construction and deconstruction, a recurring theme being the emphasis on sculpture and form, beginning with Liam Johnson’s bouncing silhouettes and culminating in Edwin Mohney’s exaggerated, theatrical forms.
The ethereal, printed womenswear draped and tied around the body, deconstructed reminiscences on schoolboy uniforms, oversized florals embossed and debossed on felting and coats with unorthodox quantities of belts and pockets, perfect for someone leaving the house with more than a phone and credit card but not quite enough to justify a handbag.
As we noticed sculptural jersey pieces and deconstructed takes on menswear suiting, loosely tailored and elegant in their androgyny, the occasionally flared suit pant sure to be the envy of many a female colleague or companion.
Hours had been spent on knitting machines, the final pieces reflective of immense craftsmanship; a true labour of love. Elise Perrota’s knitted collection was cathartic, a thoughtful and modern reinterpretation of classic knitwear pieces.
However, it wasn’t just the clothes that had everyone talking – the shoes alone provided plenty of inspiration. Mid-calf 60s boots with circular cut out detailing at the back, wool felted pumps resting on sculptural heels, and barely there, soleless footwear that collided somewhere between a sock and a beginner’s ballet shoe.
