Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar

(DAY – 5)

Moving onto Day 5 of the Italian extravaganza, some of the biggest names in fashion showcased a wide array of statement pieces in their uber-cool collections. From Bottega Veneta’s checkered beauties to Aquilando Rimondi’s minimalistic silhouettes, a lot of feather and suede came into action. As geometric patterns were on a high, timeless pastels like black and tangerine were a sure shot frontrunners. This day observed a perfect marriage between fine craftsmanship and the brand’s heritage aesthetics.

Starting off with Bottega Veneta, whose collection portrayed a fiery vision of a womanly body, followed by digitally printed designs and geometrical check patterns. From wing tip collared jumpsuits to silk bow-detailed blouses, long textured overcoats were paired with tapered woolen trousers and colorful knee-length suede boots. A lot of leather, ranging from super soft lambskin to exotic crocodile, was used to create feminine garments like square-shaped skirts and finely tailored trenches. Capes and winged-tip cashmere zippers were innovatively emblazoned with digital abstract prints, followed by bold-knitted cardigans and flowy crepe skirts. Tunic dresses and boat-neck jumpers were accompanied by embellished collars and sequin detailing.

Also, a lot of finely tailored garments like double-breasted jackets and shawl-lapelled tuxes were paired with pleated trousers and patent brogues. Crinkled LBD’s contained exaggerated shoulders and were handcrafted from fine macramé silk and nearly each model carried the brand’s signature interlocking hand-woven duffle bags. Models were enveloped in a bold color palette that included pastels like purple, aqua blue, smoky black, tangerine, sea green, ombré and peach. Then came Vivetta, whose collection imbibed classical elements with a touch of modern sophistication. The designer incorporated florals as shown in sheer dresses, pleated skirts including a bold print-on-print ensemble (like the white floral print top worn under a black floral dress). Classic stripes made a comeback in her collection with an opulent touch of fur. The sheer camel dress with strips of fur was a modern interpretation of the classic print. Abstract prints in quirky colour combinations added a fun element to the collection. The recurring print had a certain fluidic appeal on the outfits as witnessed in two-piece outfits, the crop jacket and floor-length dresses.

The recurring print of a woman’s side profile in shades of white, blue, orange and yellow added character to the ensembles. Italian designer, Ermanno Scervino’s AW collection was all about iconoclastic, free-spirited and innovative luxury combined with beautifully crafted fabrics with a rich textural appeal. From quilted coats to turtleneck cashmere cardigans, a lot of plaid was used to define A-line dresses and pilgrim coats that were corseted to the waist. With a ‘sporty-chic’ aesthetic, slouchy tunic dresses were sequined and interwoven with an extensive jacquard print. Single-breasted jackets were paired with slim-fit trousers as each piece was intricately crafted from rich lace and dégradé silk. Plunging dresses and backless numbers were crafted from fine sheer and accessorized with embroidered handbags, followed by lace sandals. Evening gowns and A-line dresses contained loads of fur detailing as each piece contained corseted hemlines and figure-defining bodices. Military trenches with gold buttons were followed by sequined flared skirts, as models swayed down the runway wearing heavily embellished gowns crafted from crepe satin.

As puffed-up fur skirts made an absolute style statement, the color palette included bold pastels of cobalt blue, white, jet black, khaki and ruby red. Roberto Cavalli’s collection saw an army of sexy and confident women strutting the runway with signature elements of the acclaimed designer. There was an abundance of animal prints like zebra, leopard and tiger as shown in form fitting dresses, patchwork-printed tops and ankle-length coats. Goddesses of the Cavalli Empire walked down in sheer-chiffon floral gowns, short dresses and jackets. The gowns that really appealed on the runway were floor-length and pleated with a gradation of sunset and blues. There was a sense of romance in the air as ruffled blouses and cuffs made their appearance on the runway. Traditional plaid checks were incorporated in high-waist pants and wrap-around dresses belted at the waist.

There was also a brief military moment on the runway as models donned corduroy olive-green mini-skirt and parkas. Next in the lineup was Antonio Marras,whoseFallcollection was all about beauty, feminism and elegance richly portrayed through body-hugging silhouettes and a modern aesthetic appeal. With gilded Rococo interiors and lush carpeted floors, models walked down the runway wearing scooping blouses and printed pencil skirts. Loose overcoats with exaggerated lapels were worn with thigh-high boots and fur-detailed bags. Corseted jackets were appliquéd with gold brocade as each outfit was matched with flared pants and lace-embroidered trousers. Blurring the lines between serendipitous luxury and modern minimalism, body-hugging gowns were layered with tulle flowers and matched perfectly with sequined duffle coats.

Chiffon dresses with dainty halter necks were matched with embroidered coats with shearling trims. Models were wrapped in a color palette that included soft pastels like smoky blue, burgundy, black, khaki and pale pink. Jil Sander, known for his minimalistic aesthetic, showcased a predominantly neutral toned collection with a dash of colour here and there. The acclaimed designer kept the looks sharp in fitted coats and blazers paired with regular-fit pants and knee-length skirts in solid shades.

Stripes made their debut on the catwalk with knee-length coats in black and white. Limited pieces with abstract prints were shown in coats paired with high-waist regular-fit trousers. Overall the looks were simplistic with key emphasis laid on power dressing. CIVIDINI, the Italian luxury house showcased a collection that was all about a mix of handcrafted techniques with modern technology, followed by clean and refined silhouettes. With a gilded gold backdrop, models were enveloped in a color palette that ranged from bold pastels like black and deep maroon to lighter shades of camel, steel grey and gold. Shearling overcoats and fur jackets were worn over tailored shirts and tapered jackets. Winged-tip collar knitted tunics were worn with Mohair skirts and patent zipper boots. LBD’s and oversized cardigans were patch worked with gold sequins as floral imprinted dresses made an absolute style statement. Slouchy duffle coats and fur pea coats were worn with straight-fit silk dresses, which were belted to perfection. U-shaped short dresses were crafted entirely from grainy suede, as each garment was appliquéd with a checkered-patchwork technique.

Leather handbags and glitzy slings made a perfect accessory duo and a definite must-have for all the fashion enthusiasts. Gabriele Colangelo’s collection focused on blending a variety of fabrics to represent a unique and modern identity. There was an element of sophistication through simplicity with emphasis laid on the cut of the garment and the silhouette projected. The colour palette involved neutrals like white, camel, grey, black with a few bright and bold shades like fuchsia and violet. Exaggerated shoulders were portrayed in single-breasted coats and dresses with varying hemlines. The designer also incorporated simplicity with luxurious shearling in knee-length coats and cropped jackets. Subtle stripes in grey dresses and pencil skirts appeared mid-collection.Ankle-length boots and ponytails to finish complemented the minimalist looks. Next in the lineup was Italian fashion label, Aquilano Rimondi that showcased a collection characterized by contemporary design and a refined, artisanal touch. With a minimalist approach and a ‘simple-lux’ appeal, models walked down the runway feminine garments that were a perfect blend between fluid silhouettes and sharp tailoring. Spaghetti tops with crystal embroidery were matched with high-waisted tapered trousers followed by belted peplum jackets and textured double-breasted topcoats. Heavily sequined tunic dresses were accessorized with crushed leather booties, followed by cardigans and wrap-up skirts. A lot of geometric cutwork and pattern work could be seen emblazoned onto sheer skirts and knitted blouses with a built-up neck.

Also, embellished tube dresses and tailored jackets were accompanied by U-shaped tops and flared pants. The color palette included simple and bold pastels of navy, steel grey, black and silver. Emilio Pucci’s collection was a glamorous one inspired by Zodiac Signs. A colorful mix of black, white, red, wine, green and cobalt blue were incorporated into an energetic mix of prints. The show opened with monochrome outfits from the late 1950s’ with equally eccentric thigh-high boots to match. A range of fabrics from velvet, sheer and fox fur was used in the collection. Intarsia knits, beaded gowns, zodiac embellishments in gold took command on the runway.

There were also certain Bohemian elements as the fringed cape and miniskirt made their appearance in the collection. From funky floor-length gowns to sheer short dresses with metallic bands, the collection was oozed glamour. Then came Elisabetta Franchi, whose collection was all about ‘turning a fantasy into reality’ as her main inspiration came from the Oriental Chinese heritage. Embodying a rich and functional modernity, models strutted the runway in plunging Kimono-inspired dresses and crop tops that were appliquéd with intricate floral embroidery. Crepe shirts and tapered trousers were worn with tailored jackets and leather peep-toe boots. Corseted zipper jackets were paired with silk A-lined skirts, followed by followed by intricately embroidered floor-length gowns. Peplum tunics were belted with satin bands and paired with slim-fit trousers and crinkled bright bucket bags. Baby doll dresses and cap-sleeved blouses were paired with long flared skirts and quilted puffer jackets. Sheer blouses and harem pants were followed by sequined cocktail dresses and halter-neck high-slit gowns. Plunging and strapless mermaid gowns were embroidered with gold sequins and Swarovski crystals. The color palette strongly contained bold pastels like cobalt blue, smoky black, dainty white, bright tangerine and faded gold.

Day 5 ended with Italian label Grinko, whose AW collection was dark, edgy with streaks of androgyny. The show began with an influence from nature as freaky zebra prints and birds made their way onto monochrome ensembles. Then came along a quirky parade of prints as shown in the asymmetric dress and the ‘Grinko Pride’ skirt. Later in the collection, bold print-on-print outfits also made their way into the collection. Silver was an important element, which accentuated the edgy appeal showcased by the designer. One of the outfits that truly stood out in the collection was the metallic floor-length gown, which was belted at the waist. Windowpane Checks were widely used in classic tailored coats, pea coats and fitted trousers. The collection was perfect match for edgy street-style in today’s world.

Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar

(DAY – 4)

Day 4 of the Italian fashion bonanza saw some of the highly acclaimed names in the fashion industry, who showcased collections that were a perfect blend between digital technology and heritage craftsmanship. From Etro’s stunning Middle-Eastern tapestries to Versace’s Modern-Greek inspirations, silhouettes became loose as carefully structured garments were adorned with jaw-dropping embellishments. Neutral tones became the heroes of the day along with shades of mustard yellow, ruby red that were highly trending on the runway. There was a wave of Bohemia with designers showcasing relaxed silhouettes on the runway.

The day began with Blumarine, under the design direction of Anna Molinari, showcased a collection that was an absolute marriage between feminine colors and fairytale romanticism. A fusion between fashion and tradition, garments were personified utmost attention to detail as each model walked in strikingly feminine silhouettes. Bold-knitted cardigans were paired with turtleneck overalls and patent knee-length boots. Silk blouses were appliquéd with floral embellishments and matched with subtle micro-mini skirts. Fur-lined jackets were paired with sequined flared pants and floor-length gowns made an uber-cool style statement with daring plunges and striking halter necks. A-line dresses and strapless numbers were followed by glitzy jumpsuits with geometric silver embellishments. Cocktail gowns and sheath leather LBD’s were matched with bold floral-embroideries and animal-printed sequins. With a ‘metallic-luxe’ appeal, models were drenched in bold pastels like copper, silver, gold, black, off-white, burgundy, mauve and faded pink.

Probably one of the most anticipated collections of the entire day, Donatella Versace did an exceptional job in delivering finely crafted bold garments, maintaining the Italian house’s heritage legacy. Highly modern and exceptionally dramatical, it was a glitzy affair as the collection was inspired by the heritage of Greece and its rich culture. Drenched in striking colors like scarlet, emerald green, ruby red, sunshine yellow and smoky black; a lot of attention was paid to the finely cut garments and uber-cool silhouettes. Tailored jackets and thigh-slit dresses were paired with bold vinyl boots and embroidered evening clutches. A-line dresses and bold capes were accompanied with winged-tip collars, as a lot of geometric patterns were imprinted onto silk blouses and chiffon robes. Shearling zipper jackets and slim-fitted bell-bottoms were followed by quilted coats and off-shoulder suede numbers. Bold dresses were split up in the front as suede bags and platform heels became the perfect accessory blend. Short LBD’s and halter neck gowns were followed by ethereal monochromatic jumpsuits and form-fitting silhouettes. Last but not the least, a lot of Swarovski-embellished hash tags and alphabets were adorned onto figure-defining tunic dresses, portraying a ‘modern-luxe’ appeal for the entire collection.

Uma Wang’s collection wasethereally feminine and exceptionally wintery. The Chinese-based designer showcased a collection that consisted of signature knitted techinques embodied onto figure-defining rich garments. With bold textures and subtle detailing, the collection was a perfect mix between fashion and functionality. Textured suede cabans and coat dresses were followed by asymmetric skirts and floral-printed silk blouses. Halter neck gowns were pleated and ruffled to perfection, as each look was accessorized with slouchy suede booties. Garments were enveloped in a bold color palette that consisted of strong pastels like burgundy, almond, rust and off-white with slight hints of black and ruby red.

One of the highlights of the day, Emporio Armani’s collection showcased the modern woman’s world when it came to fashion. The collection had an androgynous appeal as women walked in sharply tailored outfits. It entailed garments like a diagonal striped double –breasted coat, a single-breasted windowpane check coat and a single-breasted coat with flap-pockets that were paired with a regular-fit pants. The colour palette was set in bold shades like red, black, white and cobalt blue. The Italian house incorporated garments inspired by classic styles in its collection but with modern reflections. A double-breasted pea coat with butterfly detail paired over a pleated skirt added a sense of fun to the otherwise traditional ensemble. Luxurious fur coats with Italian finesse in red, blue and grey made their presence felt on the runway. Towards the end, the collection possessed rocker-chic attitude. Women donned all black ensembles like loose baggy pants in leather, embellished tops and a knee-length satin dress with fur. The overall look was complemented with red wine lips and short messy hair.

A perfect marriage between heritage and design aesthetics, the ETRO’s AW collection was an absolute must-have for the magnificent royalties and A-list celebrities. The Italian heritage label, under the design direction of Veronica Etro, presented a collection that was inspired by the rich Middle-Eastern tapestries and furnishings. Bathed in perfect blend of warm colors such as rust, gold, ochre, aquamarine and burnt red; models swirled in richly-textured garments that were beautifully textured and crafted. Notched overcoats were tailored to perfection and patch worked with intricately embroidered silk garments. Knitted jumpsuits were adorned with abstract geometric prints as each garment was clasped onto the waist using bold suede belts with extra-large buckles. Sequined tunics and form-fitting dresses were paired with tapered slim-fit trousers and two-toned patent boots. Long-sleeved dresses were incorporated with rustic floral prints and plunging jumpsuits were pleated and embroidered to perfection.

Moving on to Marco De Vincenzo, the Italian designer’s Fall collection saw a careful blend between strikingly feminine silhouettes and modern geometric patterns. A lot of fabrications like shearling, suede, crepe and silk were used to craft laser-cut dresses and warm-cuddly coats. Short jackets were paired with plunging blouses and patch-pocketed skirts. Peter Pan-collared shirts were paired with abstract print coats that contained shawl as well as notched lapels. Deep V-neck tops were daintily crafted from light sheer and matched with high-waisted skirts, rich in texture and cuts. Monochromatic dresses were aligned with uni-linear patterns as each garment was worn under see-through sheer blouses in beautiful off-shoulders and enlarged boat-necks.  Models were drenched in a bold color palette that consisted of pastels like black, steel grey, camel, mustard and emerald green.

The collection presented by Sportsmax felt like a romantic countryside paradise as models strutted in a predominantly neutral tone collection. There was a dash of Daffodil yellow to add to the countryside sunshine. The garments showcased revealed a Bohemian touch as the currently raging trend- the fringe made its way into cable-knit sweaters, coat collars, skirt hemlines. Even the silhouettes for that matter felt relaxed and comfy. Italian leather in shades of black, caramel and milk chocolate were used in trench-coats. What countryside is complete without flowers? The collection also incorporated floral applique and lace onto jumpers and necklines of dresses. Sportmax’s statement on the runway was elegant and understated.

Meanwhile, Iceberg’s looks were sharp, modern and androgynous. Blurring gender dressing seems to be making a powerful statement on the runway at Milan. The colour palette chosen by the designer consisted of white, greys, purple, blue, mustard yellows and tangerine. The silhouettes were fitting and flattered the body. Fitted pencil skirts and trousers dominated the runway which stood for modern women who dressed for power. Knitted colour-blocked skirts and cardigans stood out in the collection along with knee-length jackets with patches of colour added a playful element.

Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini’s AW collection was a perfect mix between ultra feminine garments and bold pattern work, followed by fluid and loose silhouettes. From knitted capes to subtle sheer dresses, garments contained ruffled collars and puffed up sleeves. Layered silk shirts were belted to perfection, worn under flowy harem pants and strappy platform pumps. Color-blocked ponchos and intricate-lace dresses were accompanied with sweetheart necklines and tapered silhouettes. Large duffle coats were overloaded with rich shearling and worn over plunging dresses and cashmere cardigans. Boho gowns and triangular numbers were crafted from rich sheer, as each garment was appliquéd with intricate lace detailing and extensive embroidery. Tailored tuxedos and cap-sleeved robes were the frontrunners of the show, followed by plunging crepe gowns and pleated tunics dresses with extravagant bow detailing. With a collection that was filled with serendipity and uber-cool feminism, models were drenched in a very sober color palette that consisted of rich pastels like black, off-white, gold, sky blue, tangerine, mustard and ruby.

Moving forward, Tod’s collection was the epitome of chic Italian fashion.  The garments were showcased with an understated choice of neutrals like cream, black, white, navy-blue with a dash of teal, tangerine and wine. The show began with a cream coat belted at the waist and accessorized with a leather bag. The collection was simplistic in approach with simple prints like the leaf motif which was recurring in some of the pieces. Geometric prints as shown in a few pieces reflected finesse. Some of the outfits that stood out in this particular collection were: the brown leather dress with cutwork details, the geometric-print black and white suit and the leaf motif dress with black shearling to go along.

Aigner celebrated 50 years on the runway with an opulent floral fantasy. There were seen in lace tops and dresses, a leather cut-work dress and bright floral jumpsuits with similar looking jackets. The colour palette was red, tangerine, yellow, black, off-white, olive green and grey. Shearling, sheer chiffon and leather was generously used in fitted pants, jackets, skirts and dresses. There was a slight Bohemian touch as the loose fringe was spotted in an off-white strapless dress. Overall, the looks were feminine with form fitted silhouettes.

The day ended in an edgy, masculine and futuristic collection by Nicholas K. The colour palette was dark and sober with shades of black, white, brown, grey and olive green. The silhouettes were loose and flowy. The collection exuberated a sense of modern street style. Layering sheer on sheer as shown in the various shades of brown paired with leather gloves and belts portrayed a sense of raw beauty. Leather played an important role in the collection. The overall look was accessorized with knee-high boots and pointed flats.