Contributed by – Duhin Ganju & Shefali Jauhar
(DAY – 3)
Day 3 of the Italian extravaganza saw some of the biggest names in fashion showcased a rich array of colorful feminine garments. From Max Mara’s Marilyn Monroe-inspired collection to Roberto Cavalli’s printed ecstasies, it was a day filled with quirk-chic aura. As abstract as well as geometric prints were the frontrunners, pleated garments defined an ethereally feminine silhouette. It was a perfect blend between the brand’s heritage craftsmanship with modern design aesthetics.
The day started with Max Mara, under the design direction of Maria Guilia, showcased a collection that was inspired by American bombshell Marilyn Monroe’s 1960’s look. Fabrics like fin cashmere, quilted silk and super soft Mohair were incorporated onto effortlessly elegant garments. Slouchy overcoats with notched as well as shawl lapels were richly crafted from the brand’s iconic camel hair as each garment was worn with knitted cardigans and form-fitting pencil skirts. Slouchy jerseys were incorporated with oversized and bold knits, followed by shearling-lined checkered cabans. Strapless tube dresses were banded to perfection as each look was paired with a suede handbag, followed by dapper laced-up pumps. Also, large evident diamond checks were emblazoned onto quilted puffers and zipper jackets. Double-breasted pea coats were worn over petticoat dresses and corseted hemlines, inspired by the fluidity of 20th Century. With a retro bun and minimalistic makeup, models were drenched in sober pastels of almond, mustard, aquamarine, gold and mustard with hints of classic black.
Blugirl’s collection seemed to have a vintage appeal in terms of the silhouette as models in curls and red lips strutted in the collection. The color palette was set in pale blue, grey, red, navy-blue, cream, caramel and white. In some of her pieces, the designer showcased elegant schoolgirl looks as shown in the navy blue jacket paired with a plaid skirt and a white winged-tip shirt. While other looks showcased her as a grown confident woman as shown in the initial few pieces showcased in smart tailored suits with tones of blue. Luxurious fur was showcased opulently as models strutted in jackets and coats. The collection featured geometric prints and floral prints in outfits of varying hemlines. There was also a splash of metallic shades of champagne gold in regular-fit pants and flared pants. The overall look was accessorized with a pair of oxfords.
Moving onto Les Copains, who showcased a collection that catered the needs of a modern and elegant woman. With extreme attention to detail and craftsmanship, a traditional approach was followed to create the exceptionally crafted garments with a tinge of sartorial elegance. Knitted slouchy cardigans were matched with tapered straight-fit trousers and banded gladiator heels. Short mink coats and fur cabans embodied cashmere knitted dresses with an embellished collar. Plunging knitted tops were worn with large harem pants as each look was perfectly accessorized with oversized scarves and embellished brooches. Scooping crepe dresses and dazzling tweed suits were followed by abstract-print jumpsuits and banded A-lines. A lot of floral embroidery could be seen done on elegant baby dolls and pleated tapered skirts. Some of the absolute standouts from the show were the glittery embellishments emblazoned onto turtleneck cardigans long straight-fit skirts. The color palette consisted of bold pastels like black, steel grey, white, camel and silver with hints of ruby and tangerine.
Fendi, under the creative direction of the unstoppable force Karl Lagerfeld, the designer celebrated five decades of loyalty. From ankle-length fur coats to fur lined collars and sleeves, the label known to flaunt fur like no other definitely did justice on the runway. Patchwork suede and fur in varying shades definitely stood out on the runway. The color palette was set in neutrals like cream, white, shades of brown, red and black. While there was a minimalistic approach in terms of solid-color, focus was paid on the structure and cut of the garments. The show began with ethereal white pieces with subtle off-white tones. These were shown in outfits like the double-breasted coat and the tunic worn over a full sleeve shirt. The show also featured oversized duvet coats. Known for their quirky accessories, the collection also featured the Karlito pom-poms and exotic flowers.
Next was Just Cavalli, the Low-cost collection under the Italian mastermind, Roberto Cavalli, radiating a touch of modernity onto uber-cool and heritage-inspired garments. The designer, famously known for using faux fur and iconic animal prints, sent models down the runway in fluid and relaxed stunners. From collar dresses to abstract and art jumpsuits, duffle coats and classic leather biker jackets were an absolute must-have. A lot of faux fur was emblazoned onto feminine garments like overcoats, micro-minis and comfy ponchos. Boho dresses with colorful floral prints were followed by weatherproof jackets and loose topcoats with exaggerated notched lapels. Silk blouses were worn with A-line skirts crafted from super soft lambskin and high-waisted floor-length skirts were pleated to perfection. Flared jumpsuits boasted of a certain hippie genre that was perfectly married with the brand’s offbeat design aesthetics. The color palette included a rich array of bold pastels that ranged from mustard, ombré and yellow to off-white, navy blue and black.
Anteprima’s collection was minimalistic in approach with focus paid on the cut and the fabrics. The color palette was set in tones of royal blue, white, black, mustard yellow and shades of grey. While the collection mainly featured solid colors, there were a few floral print appearances as well. The silhouettes of this particular collection were relaxed and airy. Chunky polo-neck sweaters, cashmere scarves, shearling coats were enough to cozy up the runway. Anteprima showcased a lot of asymmetric dresses, baggy pants and kimono-sleeved tops. The overall look was accessorized with backswept hair and pointed-toe flats.
Costume National’s AW collection dealt with exquisitely tailored garments catering the needs of an elegant working woman. Double-breasted overcoats and classic leather bombers were paired with turtleneck cardigans and slim-fit trousers. Checkered suits and knitted jumpers contained bold patch worked leather that was perfectly accessorized with suede zip-up boots. Velvet tunics with a built-up collar were matched with asymmetrical skirts and warm mink cabans. Embellished blouses were crafted from fine silk and paired with floor-length skirts with a daring slit. Halter-neck gowns were lined with a glitzy silver border and for men; sharp tailored suits with double-breasted coats were the frontrunners. Models were enveloped in a dark color palette that comprised of bold pastels like black, navy blue and steel grey with hints of silver.
Moving onto Cristiano Burani, who showcased an amalgamation of tradition and modernity defined by the designer in his own way. The color palate was pale blue, red, black, caramel, white and grey. Luxurious wintry fabrics like shearling, leather were used. Pleated skirts in varying hemlines, candy-stripes on skirts, dungarees, tops and embellished dresses shone throughout the collection. Fishnets paired with ankle-length boots were used to accessorize the looks. Natural hair with red lips added an effortless chic look.
Next in the line-up was Prada, under the design direction of Miuccia Prada, showcasing a collection that blurred the lines between fantasy and realism. Sensually feminine with a touch of modern elegance, models were wrapped in a vivid array of pastels like pale pink, aquamarine, forest green, mustard, deep aubergine and dusky grey. The show, named “soft pop”, included a variety of elements ranging from extravagant ostrich leather and rich tweed garments to modern sci-fi printed attires. Double-breasted coats were corseted to the waist and matched with slim-fit flared trousers. Cap-sleeved cabans and tailored suits were adorned with patch worked shearling as each look was accessorized with arty sunglasses and super-feminine handbags. Pantsuits and empire lines could be seen amalgamated with plunging dresses as well as tailored garments. A-line dresses were heavily corseted at the waist and imprinted with digital abstract graphics. Opera gloves, fur stoles and kitten heels were the hot accessory trend followed by the designer as she perfectly combined digital technology with the brand’s heritage design aesthetics.
Daniela Gregis’ collection was a bright and colorful affair as models walked down in color-drenched graffiti walls. The garments mainly comprised of bright shades like tangerine, blue, red, yellow contrasted against blacks to highlight the vibrancy of the hues. The collection began with a series of dark grey outfits like a single-breasted coat paired with a pleated skirt, a top with a school-girl pleated skirt which gradually moved towards brighter and modern outfits. The designer incorporated laser cutwork from collars to hemlines. Splashes of color featured in traditional silhouettes like the jacket with the peter-pan collar for example. The highly lustrous yet crinkled ensembles shown towards the end of the collection were loud and would definitely catch eyeballs.
Byblos Milano showcased a collection that was a perfect marriage between feminine silhouettes and geometric-abstract patterns. Slouchy overcoats were emblazoned with uni-linear prints, followed by turtleneck jumpsuits and patch worked silk dresses. Form-fitting A-lines were accompanied by V-neck knitted numbers as each garment was clasped to the waist using an arty patent leather belt. Textured coats and asymmetric skirts were imprinted with monochromatic checks and abstract graphic prints. Classic leather bombers were worn over mink trousers and straight-fit shirts. Flowy floor-length gowns comprised of a nude bodice and a trailing skirt as each look was innovatively paired with leather boots. With a very modern approach towards heritage-inspired garments, models were drenched in bold pastels like burnt pink, magenta, cobalt and ink blue with hints of classics like black and white.
Day 3 ended with Moschino, headed under the creative bubble of Jeremy Scott took us places, from the good-old Cartoon days to the streets with graffiti gowns gone gaga. The designer began with bright and bold shades like green, orange, yellow, blue and purple. The show opened with the Moschino Army donning ankle-length bomber coats, quilted skirts, and high-waist pants with tube tops, dungarees accessorized with caps. Up next came, the quirky parade of models dressed in outfits with the Cartoon prints like Sylvester and Daffy Duck. Trash Glamour took the runway with denims, metal shades and chunky chains and jewelry. Towards the end of the show, Jeremy Scott brought graffiti to life as models walked in the graffiti themed gowns in also colors imaginable.