February 2012 - Fashionfad

A Strange Affair After captivating Delhi, veteran artist Vivan Sundaram recently came up with a preview of his awe inspiring installations titled, ‘Gagawaka: Making Strange’ at Gallery Chemould in Mumbai.

A cutting edge show of Art as Fashion witnessed models walking amongst the guests wearing the sculpted garments created by Vivan using every day products. Every piece of the series reflected his creative genius as these garment effigies were made from throwaways like padded bras, zippers, corrugated sheets, foam sponges, paper cups, tyre tubes and kitchen scrubbers.

The preview had illustrious names from fashion and art world indulging in this back scratching fashion-art affair. The attendees included Narendra Kumar, Atul Dodiya, Jitish Kallat, Jenny Bhatt, Justin Ponmany, Riyaaz Komu, Namita Saraf, Czaee & Suketu Shah and Tasneem Mehta amongst many others.

“Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months,” quoted Oscar Wilde at his usual cynical best. Though how satirical he might be, but it’s this changeability of fashion which makes it interesting enough to hook its swains. Every season it’s the stripping cloaks of mystery and surprise which lend fashion its allure, and this season was no different.

A repertoire of interesting designs underscoring the style quotient when cold winds will knock the doors again came swaggering down the ramp at the Autumn Winter 2012 edition of Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week. With few elements left to last season, and a bunch of new making a wintery beeline, here is a lowdown of the trends.

Autumnal Hues

The latest Autumn Winter 2012 edition showed the color palette reflecting the shades of autumn. The abundance of the hues of red and earthy shades dominated the spectrum. Tarun Tahiliani’s pinky hues and ample of red in the collections of Gaurav Gupta, Rocky S and Anju Modi turned out to be an indicator of red cold winters this time. On the other hand, earthy hues by Anand Kabra and Sanchita Ajjampur varying from moss green to nude to blue.

Runway Trends @ WIFW A/W 2012

The Altered Silhouettes

The highlight of the event remained the silhouettes altered to create new forms. Either cut innovatively and structured or employing pink tucks, wraps and drapes, the new interesting looks to watch out for came as a fresh whiff of air. Be it Tarun Tahiliani’s draped sari with silver chains or be it Anupama Dayal’s ethereal drapes, which by the way she herself carried flashing her one leg, saris appeared in unconventional way on the Indian ramp. Even Shantanu & Nikhil’s sari was draped differently, running across the torso and paired with a gold bustier

Besides, the form altering of conventional silhouettes came in the form of asymmetrical paneled and flared pants by Arjun Saluja, unevenly bifurcated pants by Anand Kabra and draped fit and flare pants by Kanika Saluja Choudhry. Moreover, apart from sheer to heavily studded pants there were fluttering jackets by Anju Modi and asymmetrical shawls-draped-to-jackets by James Ferreira.

Runway Trends @ WIFW A/W 2012

Mix and Match of Fabrics

The play of textures, surface embellishments and appliques on strikingly opposite fabrics to put together a look remained one of the most alluring trends of the season. Whether its perforated leather skirts paired with felt appliqued tunics by Pankaj & Nidhi or merino wool teamed up with chanderi silk by Rahul Mishra, the collections emanated versatility. Even JJ Valaya used denim as detailing on the sheer dresses and jackets in harmony with lush velvets and silks.

Runway Trends @ WIFW A/W 2012

Strokes of Sportiness

Though femininity has always been the focus of Indian designers but inclusion of few elements of sportswear saw this season vouching for comfort and experimentation.

Designer Anupama Dayal’s preppy colorful collection had sporty shoes and leggings paired with printed skirts and dresses. Similarly, Designer Rahul Mishra had an interesting tone of sportswear style mixed with handloom fabrics giving a youthful flavour to the collection. Besides, a host of other designers like Ritesh Kumar and Niharika Sharma also played subtly with active wear.

Runway Trends @ WIFW A/W 2012

The ring of Metals

Apart from zardozi, zari and usual high dose of gold and silver work on Indian ensembles, there was also metal ringing loud on ramp coming as embellishment, or in the form of fabric. Anand Bhushan’s junkyard had abundant metal work done on garments through different techniques. Also Anaikka by Kanika Saluja Choudhry showed dresses with the play of metal through accessories or as appliques on garments to make a warrior out of its woman. Moreover, Gaurav Jai Gupta’s metallic fabrics and Rimzhim Dadu’s metallic dresses, skirts and jackets epitomized the strength of Indian fashion.

Runway Trends @ WIFW A/W 2012

Prominence of Indian Crafts

One of the most substantial trends of the season is highlighted by the usage of Indian crafts and weaves by the designers sourced from the different parts of the country. Pero by Aneeth Arora’s range of traditional weaves had ikat, khadi, woven wool and pashmina. Even James Ferreira’s batiks from Gujarat, Manish Malhotra’s Kashmiri work and Abraham Thakore’s hand woven and hand painted textiles marked the abundance of Indian crafts on ramp while showing a brilliant fusion of textiles.

Runway Trends @ WIFW A/W 2012

Malini Agarwalla crowned for her ace accessory label Malaga gets an elegant line of array straightaway from the land of Africa for the 2012 Lakme Fashion Week. Her collection titled as Kwazulu echoes the name of the natal African zone which invokes the primal power of Zulu traditions along with the colour and exoticism of its sub-tropical forest landscape and the modern avatar of this region’s coast as a string of incomparable beach resorts.

“The Kwazulu collection by Malaga uses all the facets of the ‘land of the Zulus’ to make a tribal inspired, colourful Malini for LFW S/R12

collection of bags ideal for the high summer season. The geometric embroidery patches are inspired by the beadwork that is worn by Zulu women in their belts, dresses and head gear. These influences add that extra flair, and with the colours used, make each bag a statement of individual style,” says Malini.

The designer’s collection emphasizes on a palette which depicts a unification of colour, power and elegance. Her silhouettes faultlessly connect the sophisticated travellers around the orb.

The veteran designer Varun Bahl known for his elaborate Indian outfits of late opened his eponymous flagship store at DLF Emporio in New Delhi.

The décor of the store emanates old world charm with its vintage yet minimalistic look keeping everything very clean and simple. The entrance door of the store is made of Burma teak wood embellished with intricate carving and the flooring is done with a collage of various motifs merging into one raised pattern in a grey textured matte finish.

Moreover, a beautiful chandelier on the ceiling and copper mirrors enhance the charm of the store which is mostly accented with Indian elements but adorned with a modern finish.

Varun Bahl’s Store Launch

Harem in Lycra, draped tunics with pleats, full patiala, dhoti pants and kurtas and kameezes, which are light weight and can swirl and twirl easily along with floor length anarkalis, paithani kurta with lehenga, are all set to thrill the podium at one of the most coveted 2012 Summer Resort LFW. The pieces flaunt the imagination of designer Archana Kochhar behind its creation. The designer unleashes a typographical themed collection christened as Kathputli Kathak which denotes dancing marionette puppets, paramount in the beautiful and radiant state of Rajasthan.

Reflecting on these Dancing Dolls and the bright and vibrant colours of Rajasthan Archana’s collection embodies a very pragmatic line of ensembles embodied with just the right strokes of style and drama. The colour palette run through are bold, contrasting neon colours of electric blue, fuchsia pink, lime green, bringing yellow, beige, white and black. The splash of bright neon colours is transmitted to elevate the look and give a modern twist to the outfits. A charming unification of the ethnic and the contemporary motifs bestow a playful range of twirling Indian attires with a beam of modernity.

Archana Kochhar for LFW S/R12

Blended in colorful wool work which is manipulated in different forms and modes along with transparent neon cut outs, appliqué cutwork and crystal dust sprinkled all over to add some sheen and sparkle, dazzles the pieces while other embellishments engraved creates a mesmerizing appeal. Apart from drapes and pleats, layers stand besides gathered detailing for Archana’s compilation. Fabrics ranging from raw silk, tussar silk, georgette, Colorado Lycra, cotton and crape flow through the range.

Designer Archana Kochhar states, “Each creation of my collection ‘Kathputli Kathak’ is crafted to perfection with imaginative construction and embellishments.

With the collection titled Waves of Joy, the crowned designer Anita Dongre is all set to spell the aura of a delicious and vibrant summer at the runway for the 2012 Summer/Resort Lakme Fashion Week

The collection with its vivacious color palette featuring sugary pastels like candy pink, bright lime, sea green, aqua blue and peach, to the sweet shades of soft greys and yellows crops up contemporary silhouettes. The mood of the collection is early-evening resort wear emphasizing feminine detailing and its vivid tones. Fabrics echoing the authentic India which embrace silk and cotton brocade weave from Benaras, tie and dye from Rajasthan, gorgeous hand painted silks from Jaipur, Ikats of Andhra Pradesh, and chikan kari from Lucknow glimpse through the designer’s creation. With a laid-back yet sophisticated look, the line flows from easy pastels to classic black and whites, to rich gold brocades.

Waves of Joy will showcase an enchanting truss flanked by the organic fair trade cotton and boho-luxe style. High on comfort and style code the designer’s array is a sensual line of graciously flowing gowns; maxi dresses, easy jackets, flowing palazzos, skirts and feminine lace blouses. Anita carved her contemporary outfits with chikan kari and gota patti embroidery.

Anita Dongre for LFW S/R12

This is for the first time the runway will be experiencing Anita Dongre’s men’s line compiling of cool linen shirts in the delicious summer colours of pink, turquoise and lime, minimalist linen blazers in neutral colours, and trousers in burnt orange and yellow illustrating refined fabrics, clean cuts and impeccable fits. The designer Anita Dongre epitomizes her exclusive S/R range by stating, “For this collection I picture a woman on a dreamy holiday with her man, whose taste is refined and subtle, going for romantic cocktails, looking very sexy and feminine”.

If it was a painting, Roberto Musso’s 2013 Fall/Winter Collection could be described as mixed media, which like a room of desires, holds all his passions for the upcoming winter fashion show.

The color palette verges on water colors. The dusty and sophisticated tones of the fabrics, always elaborate, dampen any vehemence. Stolen from misty landscapes, they become cloudy and delicate, a mixture of earthy colors, greens and greys. Elegant tones are combined in the men’s style coat with black wool cover, lined on the reverse with dove-grey silk velvet and fastened around the waist by a thin organza belt.

The use of color, the fabrics and contrasting furs enhance the sculptural aspect of the creations. The black coat, with pageboy collar in honey-colored velvet, comes alive with flashes of colour and the movement of red ribbons that adorn the neckline, like Pinocchio’s outfit. The item is worn with moss-colored tight pants. The short black jacket has a beautiful creamy-white collar designed so that the two ends overlap each other like petals of a lotus flower that open up on the face.

Roberto Musso @ MFW A/W 12

The fur is processed like precious velvet. The waist of the kid jacket features a striking leather belt and it was created to be worn together with the sage-green woollen skirt with the “origami” pleated hem, a stylistic feature of Musso. The high-waisted coat in black and moss green kid is fastened by a champagne-colored crumpled silk ribbon, with round collar in chestnut-colored Persian lamb.

There are also some cheeky pieces: the oversized coat in forest-green kidassia, ironically very cool, has the same spirit as the “must have” shoes of the season: ankle boots that from the front

seem lily-white. The blouses in silk georgette opt for vibrant optical effects: white, black and pink – pale yellow, white and black. A mix of different colors breaks up the men’s style blouse, on the cuff, mandarin collar and plastron to be worn with the maxi-collar in Persian lamb resting on the shoulders and grey skirt with Zen pleats.

The sleeveless dress in wool fabric uses contrasts to create the shape: grey on top and black at the waist. Color creates movement thanks to the grey band that continues to the hem and to the

while silk plastron, a fabric detail stolen from the blouse.

The colors of black, caramel and bright pink alternate in the dress with a large bow on the chest. The colors are dismantled in the graphics of the fabric with large irregular tesseras in crimson,

antique pink, sea green, and peacock blue of the pants or skirt suit to be worn with a silk tunic top and collar in fox fur to frame the face.

Raw silk organza for the evening dress. The clay-colored dress, classy with a large collar is seductive as its wraps around the body and gently plays with the transparencies.

The designer whose art is inspired by the human form and sights the body as a different type of canvas epitomizes a soothing color palette harmonizing deep jewel tones, nuanced neutral shades and fresh whites for her 2012 Summer Resort collection titled Play. Designer Payal Khandwala with her collection titled Play will throw light on an amusing and lively line of attires at the prestigious Lakme Fashion Week. Drawing from the works of abstractionists like Mark Rothko and Barnett Newman, her silhouettes are dramatic yet minimal, with an attention to detail.

Rich Indian silks, natural linens and cottons concords to blend the range. The fabrics are layered in different textures and colour, within a framework that is constructed, draped and pleated, sometimes twisted and sometimes looped. The silhouettes are long and sustain poise between the masculine and the feminine elements; they are neither overtly masculine nor too f Payal Khandwala for LFW S/R12

eminine. The collection is perfectly suited for that contemporary woman who is independent; intelligent, strong yet graceful and one who enjoys a sense of luxury but not at the expense of her comfort.

For her collection Play, the designer looks at fashion with the same lens as she does her paintings but it’s not a fusion of the two. The adorable pieces are just an expression of a special kind, since ultimately clothes are meant to be worn even if the prism with which they are made is rooted in art embodies the designer.

A new sobriety is inspiring fashion for next winter. Silhouettes grow longer, both in overcoats and in evening dresses, with a mysterious, priestly look (like the long icon-dresses emerging from the shadowy background of a Piero Pizzi Cannella painting), and certainly suave with their silks and laminates.

But all seriousness is soon contradicted by the long splits that reveal the entire length of the leg with each step; by top-stitching borrowed from a more casual wardrobe; by cheeky Mongolian fur shoulders on necklines; by feisty leather or neoprene bodices; or by a single leather shoulder strap supporting an entire draping.

Shoulders are large and slightly raised (not only in jackets and overcoats, but even in a sheath dress),emphasising the otherwise close-fitting silhouette, which is further tightened by leather strap harnesses, borrowed from certain types of work clothes; contrasting top-stitching and protective padding give garments a thickness feel, as if they were sculpted.

Krizia @ MFW A/W 12

Cuts are carefully designed to follow the body’s anatomy. Contrasting inverted pleats take us by surprise, even in certain pants. Other close-fitting trousers feature a low crotch, but there are also some glossy coated tight black jeans. Whimsical leather shoulders on a draped silk dress or on oversized knitwear in kid mohair; snug poncho-scarves; not to be missed is the gold lamé pant suit, a triumph of horizontal plissés.

Krizia @ MFW A/W 12

The soundtrack for the fashion show includes a tribute to the memory of the great Whitney Houston, a homage to this beautiful and talented singer and actress who, as it happens, loved to wear Krizia.

Krizia @ MFW A/W 12

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Monthly Archives: February 2012

A Strange Affair

Runway Trends @ WIFW A/W 2012

Malini for LFW S/R12

Varun Bahl

Archana Kochhar for LFW S/R12

Anita Dongre for LFW S/R12

Roberto Musso @ MFW A/W 12

Payal Khandwala for LFW S/R12

Krizia @ MFW A/W 12